H
HorribleHagar
Hi Ali.
If you look at the first page. 2nd last picture you'll see the bit that I will be applying adhesive to. The chipboard itself is in good shape in every sense.
Cheers
If you look at the first page. 2nd last picture you'll see the bit that I will be applying adhesive to. The chipboard itself is in good shape in every sense.
Cheers
hello hagar, my advice is also get someone experienced in,vet them there are plenty good tilers out there
rated people i would avoid but thats just a personal opinion and as for clark contracts i shall say some of the worst work i have seen in edinburgh
i know you are full of enthusiasm and thats great but a job of this size/ and the standard you are looking for i think you could end up with another failure
if you want a top job find and vet a top tiler not outfits like you named before mate
rated people i would avoid but thats just a personal opinion and as for clark contracts i shall say some of the worst work i have seen in edinburgh
i know you are full of enthusiasm and thats great but a job of this size/ and the standard you are looking for i think you could end up with another failure
if you want a top job find and vet a top tiler not outfits like you named before mate
C
Colour Republic
Hagar, Deflection does not mean dips and un-levelness of the floor but is movement in the floor i.e. bounce. What they have been saying is that deflection needs to be sorted out as your first step. If present that may require the floor to be lifted, extra support given underneath with possible extra noggins required to strentghen the joists. If this is not sorted out then anything you do after this is a waste of time.
Sadly you've already made a mistake in using 9mm ply, not only is this not suitable to tile on to, it also offers no insulation value which in turn makes your UFH very inefficient.
It seems given your bad luck with tilers previously you intend to undertake these works yourself but I would stop now and do a bit more research on your complete job before going any further. Or as suggested get some quotes from people who actually know what they are doing. Mistakes are not easily rectified later without either loss of performance or at great cost.
They are plenty of people on here that are local to you. Put an ad up on here and when you get replies you can check out the members profiles, read some of their previous forum posts and you'll soon get an idea of how informed and how skilled that member is. Plenty of good tilers on here but also plenty that use the forum just to contact members like yourself, so do check out the members you may ask to come round to view the job
Last edited by a moderator:
H
HorribleHagar
Noggins was one of the first thing I was to do after tearing the tiles and adhesive off. But was told by a joiner it wasn't needed.. and to be honest there isn't that much bounce to the floor. Just a weird bowl effect which I find a bit weird considering the house is less than 20 years old and the bathroom has barely been used.
To be honest I've done quite a lot of building work in the past in my native country and tiling is sort of the final frontier for me, the only thing I haven't done. So that is the real reason I want to do it. If I couldn't afford for it to go wrong and I didn't have the time I wouldn't do it.
Colour Republic said:
To be honest I've done quite a lot of building work in the past in my native country and tiling is sort of the final frontier for me, the only thing I haven't done. So that is the real reason I want to do it. If I couldn't afford for it to go wrong and I didn't have the time I wouldn't do it.
H
HorribleHagar
Forgot to mention..
I went to tops tiles yesterday to pick up some things I needed (6mm hardie) and was told by a tiler to put down 6mm ply, pour the SLC on that and then tile... he didn't work there but he did have his card in the approved/recommended tilers bit near the exit. Needless to say I still left with the hardies.
I went to tops tiles yesterday to pick up some things I needed (6mm hardie) and was told by a tiler to put down 6mm ply, pour the SLC on that and then tile... he didn't work there but he did have his card in the approved/recommended tilers bit near the exit. Needless to say I still left with the hardies.
C
Colour Republic
personally I would have gone with a 10mm insulation board as minimum rather than 6mm hardiebacker. Not because the hardie backer is unsuitable but because the better insulation you have, the cheaper and more efficient your UFH will run.
Hagar, topps are no longer permitted to recommend tradesman nor are they to endorse or approve any.
A good, qualified tiler would not recommend 6mm ply. This is half the issue with our trade these days. Gas needs gas safe, electricians part p, and potentially plumbers part h in the future. Unless customers of the future fully vet who they employ or we get some kind of accreditation anyone can call themselves a tiler. And by all means the concept is simple. But what about weights? Substrates, materials, expansion? A tiler should understand all aspects of their trade and not just know how to spread adhesive and grout.
A joiner can not answer if the floor ill be ok to accept tiles in my opinion.
Chipboard is relatively weak, and is naturally flawed in construction as far as a substrate for tiles. If its not water damaged then its not supported adequately. My advice would be to get rid altogether, fit extra support noggins and reboard with ply. Then overboard with your 6mm hardie backer board. Glued with adhesive and screwed as per installation instructions. You will also need to prime the rear and edges of your ply sheet.
Fair play to you wanting to take it on yourself, but you may as well take the free advice and do the job correctly. Good luck
A good, qualified tiler would not recommend 6mm ply. This is half the issue with our trade these days. Gas needs gas safe, electricians part p, and potentially plumbers part h in the future. Unless customers of the future fully vet who they employ or we get some kind of accreditation anyone can call themselves a tiler. And by all means the concept is simple. But what about weights? Substrates, materials, expansion? A tiler should understand all aspects of their trade and not just know how to spread adhesive and grout.
A joiner can not answer if the floor ill be ok to accept tiles in my opinion.
Chipboard is relatively weak, and is naturally flawed in construction as far as a substrate for tiles. If its not water damaged then its not supported adequately. My advice would be to get rid altogether, fit extra support noggins and reboard with ply. Then overboard with your 6mm hardie backer board. Glued with adhesive and screwed as per installation instructions. You will also need to prime the rear and edges of your ply sheet.
Fair play to you wanting to take it on yourself, but you may as well take the free advice and do the job correctly. Good luck
C
Colour Republic
Is this true Ali? Where have you heard this and for what reason mate?
From my local branch. Traders are allowed to place there own cards in the bays. But approximately 2 years ago it bit them on the bum. I used to do claim and remedial work for them but it started costing them a fortune.
The guys local to me give a "personal" opinion now. This is who I would use but as a member of staff I cannot recommend anyone.
The guys local to me give a "personal" opinion now. This is who I would use but as a member of staff I cannot recommend anyone.
H
HorribleHagar
Just to make sure.. Chipboard is a particle board right? If particle boards here are the same as in Sweden they should be ok for the heat generated by UFC.
It is not a true timber as it is made from resin, sawdust and other bits of wood which is pressed together at close to 200C.
Probably not very economical though from a W/£ perspective.
Well put! Every joiner or plumber can do it if you ask them.
Where I am from no one wants to touch it unless they're an actual tiler or mason.
And they seem to be fairly respected for their work and knowledge (and it is expected they know their stuff).
AliGage said:
Thanks for your advice, it is really helpful. Gonna do some tests on the floor tomorrow and try and figure out what to do.
C
Colour Republic
The offical line is....
Schlüter-DITRA 25 is also recommended for uncoupling of radiant heated floors consisting of thin electric heating mats. Schlüter-DITRA 25 may be installed either above or below the heating mat. However, the uncoupling function is more effective if Schlüter-DITRA 25 is installed above the heating mat.
There are similar tiling threads here
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