Quartz or similar and UFH. Can Someone explain why not

J

Jeff the tiler

I know the two should not be put together but do not know the technical reasons why?
 
Some of the cheap resin agglomerates jeff have high resin content to qaurtz chippings etc and these cheaper resin when subjected to heat can soften and cause the tiles to curl..
 
Ask the manufacturer (not the supplier), some say yes some say no. It doesn't really matter where they come from, only one company (Breton) make the machine that produces this product. So the only thing that can differ is the constituent products put into that machine.

Dave highlights a common misconception with Quartz about the resin content.

The most expensive component in the manufacturing of quartz tile and slab is actually the resin and pigment (basically anything oil based) that generally makes up around 7% of the total content of a "starlight" type quartz. The other 93% being made up of quartz grains of varying sizes and glass chipping that give the mirror effect.

The more pure the colour the higher the resin content. So a Pure white could be as much as 15% resin. That's why the pure colours are so expensive when combined with the number that are rejected due to colour contamination during production.

The higher the resin content, the more expensive the product. Think of Corian and other solid surfaces which are substantially more expensive again than Quartz.

If anything, the cheaper products will have less resin, not more as that reduced production costs. It's the resin that binds the structure together, think if like the egg when you're making pastry. Too much or too little egg and your mixture is all wrong.

As a floor tile I rate granite above quartz by a country mile. As a decorative product, quartz is outstanding.

I used to manufacture quartz slab, the list of disclaimers you're required to give with this product would make you wonder where it could be used at all. Couldn't be stored outside, had to be stored away from UV light, cannot be used externally, not frost proof etc etc etc

However, it's down to each manufacturer if their product is suitable for UFH. I know Technistone say theirs is. I've not kept up with the others lately.

Silestone is the market leader worldwide in Quartz products, they are generally accepted as the best quality producer.

Reading the terms of their 10 year guarantee is an eyeopener.

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Sound info Alan but it is also when CHEAP resin's are used that problems occur , i know some types are fine with heated floors and some cheaper versions are not.. and also wrong adhesives used.

Quartz worktops do seem to be better manufactured than mass produced cheapo tiles 🙂
 
Thanks to this forum this is something that I've learnt today about quartz, more importantly I've a client that's possibly buying quartz for her new build 127m2 going onto ufh , will have to run over these problems to them , would ditra matting make any difference to the problem?
 
Thanks to this forum this is something that I've learnt today about quartz, more importantly I've a client that's possibly buying quartz for her new build 127m2 going onto ufh , will have to run over these problems to them , would ditra matting make any difference to the problem?

Ditra wouldn't make any difference. The question is more about the chemical structure of the product as opposed a decoupling issue.
 
As Alan say's it is down to the tile quality it's self .. always check with supplier/manufacturer for suitability .
 
Does the tile thickness come in to play? I was told that a quartz tile should be a minimum thickness of 15mm thick where as a lot of the stuff sold in the uk is only 12mm
 
I read that somewhere as well Gary ... will check my latest TTA tiling with agglomerate tiles , i think it was in there..? .. keeping up with latest standards is a mare :lol:
 
Ok just checked and it does not state min thickness , it does however say that normal tile thickness will be 10mm to 12mm and thicker for heavy duty applications.

it does also state that ( and i have said this Many times ) that the main issue with resin agglomerate tiles is when fixing with the wrong adhesive .

They can curl from moisture sensitivity by differential expansion and a 2 part polymer adhesive should be used or an adhesive designed for use with resin agglomerate tiles , this is fully explained in BS5385-3:2009 clause 11.2.1 .

It is important that all water is rapidly hydrated , so the adhesive bed hardens/cures as quick as possible to prevent curling..

hope this helps other readers of this thread and as always if in doubt, seek advice from tile manufacturer or supplier of the agglomerate tiles and your chosen adhesive manufacturers tech line.
 
Also , i see that Tilemasters Ultimate adhesive is suitable for resin agglomerate tiles , so that is good news as it is at a great price.. 🙂🙂
 
Great info, was aware of the curling and correct adhesive but so much more depth gone into by Ats.
 
I think the 15mm minimum thickness is a TCNA recommendation rather than a UK one

We used to recommend a minimum 15mm thickness for flooring. That was really only for product stability.

Anything above a 600x600 it would be sensible to go to 20mm.
 
Thanks all for the responses. The post has given some great info. I Was asked by a local supplier to comment on a floor that has recently lifted with quartz and UFH.
The Info really helped. Quite interesting though the photo i saw showed the floor had been serrated trowelled and then dot and dabbed fixed on top.
Obviously floor uneven. When will people learn???

Everyone now has a reason to pass the buck back to the tiler.
 

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