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Tiling Floor Former With Long Tiles

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EmmC

Hi. I'm planning on changing an en suite shower into a wetroom. I'd like to have wood effect floorboard style floor tiles (120 cm x 20). Would you foresee any problems when tiling the floor former i.e. can they still be staggered or would they all have to be cut in line as I think that would ruin the effect. Also would a linear or standard drain be easier to work with (the short edge of the tile would butt up to the linear drain)? Thanks.
 
A linear drain would certainly help with your design idea but there are still problems to overcome if you wish it to be seamless with the rest of the floor, and not have the shape of the former highlighted with a joint around its perimeter, but it is possible.
Position of the former in relation to the rest of the room would be key to achieving your desired outcome.
 
image.jpeg
Thanks for the reply. Have attached a sketch of how I envisage it at the moment based on current layout of pipes etc. It could be re-configured. The tiles would run parallel to the door.

I would like to avoid any perimeter lines if possible (could even change the length of the tile to 90 cm). Your advice would be appreciated. Thanks.
 
Do u intend on having some kind of glass screen, would it run parralell to door also?

Are there any height restrictions at the door?
 
Yes, I will have a glass screen but wasn't sure which way was best - parallel to the door or between the shower and the WC. No height restrictions, it's 2.5m floor to ceiling. Thanks.
 
Both wedi and Schluter make single-fall trays which would achieve what you're after. No envelope cuts.
 
Both wedi and Schluter make single-fall trays which would achieve what you're after. No envelope cuts.
So how would u go about getting over the angle of fall with a broken bond and not cut a line across the edge of the former Imp?
 
A seamless floor can be achieved using PCS Wedge boards available from Lee@TileTown,
First lay 10mm flat boards at far end of room, 3x1200x600, this will leave a 150 off cut, keep to one side.
Then overlay with 1200x1200 wedge boards, these boards are graduated from 20mm down to 10mm.
So now u are left with a 20mm step across room in the middle. So now lay a second board over remainder of floor, this will take u from 20mm down to 10mm and leave a 150 strip. U can in fill this with the first off cut flat board. Then place your linear drain in desired position.
That's a very basic description of the method and there are other things to be taken into account, like the small wedge across face of door, but in reality it wouldn't be much of a rake.
So I've just outlined it. Otherwise it would be a very involved post.
If u wish to go ahead then each element can be tackled along the way.
image.png
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A seamless floor can be achieved using PCS Wedge boards available from
Lee@TileTown,
First lay 10mm flat boards at far end of room, 3x1200x600, this will leave a 150 off cut, keep to one side.
Then overlay with 1200x1200 wedge boards, these boards are graduated from 20mm down to 10mm.
So now u are left with a 20mm step across room in the middle. So now lay a second board over remainder of floor, this will take u from 20mm down to 10mm and leave a 150 strip. U can in fill this with the first off cut flat board. Then place your linear drain in desired position.
That's a very basic description of the method and there are other things to be taken into account, like the small wedge across face of door, but in reality it wouldn't be much of a rake.
So I've just outlined it. Otherwise it would be a very involved post.
If u wish to go ahead then each element can be tackled along the way.
View attachment 79354
missing bidet marc !!!!!!!!!!!!!! ............
 
So how would u go about getting over the angle of fall with a broken bond and not cut a line across the edge of the former Imp?

I only said no envelope cuts. Of course there would be breaks at the start of the tray.
if required, you could grout that line in a matching colour to minimise the impact.
 
I only said no envelope cuts. Of course there would be breaks at the start of the tray.
if required, you could grout that line in a matching colour to minimise the impact.
Wasn't being difficult or clever, I was genuinely interested.
Sorry if it came across that way!
 
Thanks for all the contributions, I'm trying to get it to look like the first picture in the attached file.

3_fall, that's great, thank you very much for taking the time to sketch it out and explain. It took me a while to get my head round it, but I follow. I've not come across wedge boards before and I'm keen to know more. I can only find their own website on the internet, is it a new product? What kind of subfloor do they go on? I currently have a particleboard type subfloor under carpet, I assumed it'd have to come up and be replaced by 25mm plywood. Also, how do you fit the drainage? Thanks again.
 

Attachments

Ok so here's a link to the wedge board, there are downloads available on the link.
For some reason I can't get Lee@TileTown's link to work. He's a member here.
Here's a link to his website
Kitchen Tiles, Bathroom Tiles, Wall Tiles, Floor Tiles
Tell him Marc from the forum sent u about wedge boards, he'll know who u mean.
Speak to Lee, he's clued up, and will be able to answer all your questions I'm sure.
But if not, if u have anything to ask, obviously post away!
We're always here! 🙂

And No, u won't have to change your subfloor.
 
Haha ooops!
You're right, sorry Emm! Haha
Didn't post it!
But yes, that's them, used them recently myself, that's how I know they exist!
U've made me give away one of my tricks now! Haha
U'll have to go thro a retailer like Lee at TileTown.
PCS won't sell to u direct.

TILE TOWN
 
Hi Emma

Are you getting a pro inn ?

Yes I am but I want to understand how it will all work because my tiler has never used these kind of tiles or done a wetroom before. I want to make sure that how I want these tiles (i.e no mitres or continuous lines) is do-able.

Unfortunately Lee@Tiletown hasn't called me back yet. I spoke to PCS's distributor who said I would need a board with an integral linear drain but they all look like they have at least two planes.
http://www.pcsboard.com/pcs/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/Shower-Trays.pdf

So I'm still none the wiser as to how you would create the drain area with just the wedge boards.
 
Schluter Kerdi line linear drains go up to 1200mm long.
Put one full width of short side of shower against wall.
Then shower screen perpendicular to the drain, that way the drain is full width of shower.
Wedge boards will direct water downward towards drain.
They have sufficient fall in them for water drain off.
I suggest kerdi line because a tanking membrane comes attached to it.
Cover the rest of the shower floor with the kerdi Keba tanking and it'll be watertight.
As long as your fitter knows what he's doing!!!!!
And to say he's never used the materials or done a wet room, is a little concerning.
If he's good at his job he should be able to cope.
But make sure it's done exactly as instructed by manufacturers.
Failed wetrooms tend to cost a fortune to put right.
Maybe consider epoxy resin grout,at least in shower floor.

Page 6
http://www.schluter.co.uk/media/553007Prospekt_Kerdi_Line__Duschvergnuegen_GB_0213.pdf
 
You're very brave and trusting if you let your Tiler cut his teeth on your house! We all have to start somewhere of course, but it would be reassuring from my perspective if your tiler had at very least been on a manufacturer's course.
 

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