Mixing Keraquick and Latex

[Mick_c]

I am Tiling my Daughters bathroom in coming weeks and have been trying to gain more knowledge by reading advice given on this website. The floor is chipboard overlaid with ply and screwed every 200/300 mm. I have brought keraquick and latex to give more flexabillity on the wood. I know this might be a stupid question but do I add 1:1 parts of addy and latex or do I add water as well? Also what is the best grout to use Keracolor FF or Ultracolor plus, have they got the same amount of flex. The color is jasmine quite a pale color, would the Ultracolor last longer before it discolored? Grateful for any advice.

 

[Ian]

Hey up Mick, what thickness is the ply overlay?


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[Mick_c]

Hi Bri

The ply is 18mm wbp. I think, on reading other pages that seemed to be the preferred thickness.

 

[kilty55]

hi mick have you just laid this ply or is it exisitng and has it been tiled over before?

 

[Mick_c]

Its a chipboard floor with new plywood on top.

 

[Rich]

Personally I would rather over board with a tile backer board rather than ply but as it is done now and you are using a S2 adhesive (and a very good one) you should be fine. You are meant to mix all of the latex plus liquid with a full bag of adhesive, no water. To be honest I rarely mix the full amounts of both (only on large areas) but it would prob be best to follow the instructions on the bag. As for grout, I would go for the Ultracolor plus, really good stuff for floors. Just be aware that the adhesive and the grout you are rapid setting.

 

[Rich]

Here is a thread from a little while back on tiling onto plywood, might give you a little more info


[h=3]Plywood floors...[/h]

 

[Mick_c]

Here is a thread from a little while back on tiling onto plywood, might give you a little more info


Plywood floors...

Thanks for the advice Rich I am going to show this to the son in law. His dad is a builder and that is where he gets his info, builders obviously don't know everything. At least we have a good S2 adhesive so fingers crossed there won't be any problems. I will tell him to get the ultracolor grout and I will do small areas at a time, I'm not the quickest, too picky so the wife tells me. Thanks again]

 

[Mick_c]

Thanks for the advice Rich and the interesting thread, I always thought tiling on ply was ok but after reading that thread I will definately think twice next time. When you say Rapid set with the addy how Rapid is that. If I mix up enough for 1/2 hour working time is that about right?

 

[Rich]

It really depends on the temp and the humidity of where you are using it. You should be fine with that, the thing to do is just keep making sure that it is not setting in the bucket. If it starts to go off on you then give it another mix but I wouldn't recommend adding any more liquid. This should give you a little more time to work with it.

 

[aflemi]

Last few times I used keraquick and latex, it took ages to go off, 3 hours later and you could still move the tiles, next day and it still wasn't hard. Funny thing is that it seemed to go rock hard on the tools/bucket much quicker making it a pain to get them clean. I would advise not expecting to be able to grout as soon as the bag says.

 

[Mick_c]

Ok I'll go with the, mix small portions and lay a few tiles at a time, there is no rush to get it finished as its for family. I will try to keep tools as clean as pos as I'm going. Thank you for your help guys.

 

[Rich]

I think that is your best bet Mick, make sure that you keep a clean bucket of water and sponge next to you as you as you are tiling and wash off as you go, when it does go off, it goes off well.

 

[wishy]

Anyone know if latex plus is essential with Keraquick when lining with Schluter Kerdi matt and tiling onto solid moisture boards?

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Hi wishy, I don't think it is essential, but it would certainly not do any harm, I would use latex plus ( belt and braces). When you say moisture boards, are they the green moisture resitant plasterboards?

 

[wishy]

Yeah Phil that's the ones, green gypsum boards. The matting has been fixed without the latex added but will go for latex for the tiles or is it too late!.
The boards are very well fixed and there is absolutely no movement. Is it the expansion and contraction of the boards themselves to require this latex?

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

Hi wishy, I think Keraquick should be OK, as it is a flexible rapid set. I just like to go the extra mile with the latex plus, but that's just me

 

[wishy]

I'm a bit belt and braces plus elasticated waist myself so will do for the tiles. Thanks Phil

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

I'm a bit belt and braces plus elasticated waist myself so will do for the tiles. Thanks Phil

:lol: like your style mate

 

[tarkett85]

Yeah Phil that's the ones, green gypsum boards. The matting has been fixed without the latex added but will go for latex for the tiles or is it too late!.
The boards are very well fixed and there is absolutely no movement. Is it the expansion and contraction of the boards themselves to require this latex?

there is always movement within a wooden subfloor not only expansion and contraction but contortion and cupping also, it changes due to temperature and Rh changes in the atmosphere and the product its self, schluta actually state to use flexible adhesive with their product anyway. When preparing your subfloor British Standards BS 5325, BS8201, BS 8203 and BS8204 Must be followed

 

[The Legend; Phil Hobson RIP]

there is always movement within a wooden subfloor not only expansion and contraction but contortion and cupping also, it changes due to temperature and Rh changes in the atmosphere and the product its self, schluta actually state to use flexible adhesive with their product anyway. When preparing your subfloor British Standards BS 5325, BS8201, BS 8203 and BS8204 Must be followed

I think wishy is talking about tanking walls mate.