Holiday Home/lodges Tiles Onto 9mm Ply

M

Martino

Hi i was just wondering how do holiday home/lodge makers get away with tiling onto 9mm ply

How are they covered by any insurance by this

Also if it's so bad to tile onto 9mmply...how do they manage to stay stuck even in transit?

Opinions welcomed
 
It will still stick - it all depends on what adhesive was used and if the movement is excessive. the thickness of the ply won't stop a tile sticking to it but the flex in a piece of ply may cause the tile to crack and debond.

Why don't tile displays - you know, glue gun and porcelain tiles fail? Those displays take some hammer but I don't see the tiles falling off.
 
I don't need a link as I work at a holiday home factory haha....I'm a joiner and the tilers always tile onto 9mm ply...I just don't understand why people on here are so against ply
 
But how do they manage to keep selling the holiday homes?....I mean one we have just finished is going for over 200k...its just crazy cash
 
well went to have a look at a lodge builder the other day 18mm water proof chip board floor ha ha wanted to tile the whole floor 80 m2 i asked why have you done this was told thats the way we all build these these are split in two then joined on site .they dont tile the whole floor but want to bring in new finishes and tile the whole floor they had one 60% built and one at the base level we changed the floor build up on this one to the real way of doing it in the modern world should end up leading the field with fully tiled floors with under floor heating .some have the brains to move on and some dont .
 
What do you mean by this Andy?

As far as I am aware we have had no issues with the tiles at all.

Having removed tiles from ply myself in the past... The adhesive was well stuck into the grain and pulled away the ply when removing the adhesive
 
What I mean by this is....

If you were tiling full time and making a living from it would you not want to do the best job possible?
Would you not want to use the latest up to date methods that stand the least chance of failing and coming back to haunt you?
You wouldn't fit a kitchen with a hammer and chisel would you.?

Yes there's adhesive out there that will stick to ply and chipboard, even floating floors.....but most tilers prefer the belt and braces approach of over boarding with cement boards or insulation boards , for little extra cost it can eliminate any risk of failing..
 
Yes I am totally with you on this....don't shoot the messenger lol...maybe once we start using a pro tiler things will change... At the minute its the plumbers who do the tiling.....rough as anything as well...all i asked was why is everyone so against ply on here....when its used correctly it's absolutely fine....20/30 years a go cement board was not heard of...yet people still had tiles in there bathrooms and kitchens.....all I'm saying is....

Give ply a chance haha
 
Catch a fish for a man and you feed him one meal....teach a man how to fish and you feed him for life......
 
....when its used correctly it's absolutely fine....20/30 years a go cement board was not heard of...yet people still had tiles in there bathrooms and kitchens.....all I'm saying is....

I bet you still use a 'Yankee' don't you! Haha
 
A joiner is not a joiner if he doesn't have a Yankee in his tool bag...of course I have a Yankee....how do you expect me to unscrew the conti block under the base unit behind the plinth on the back wall? Yes this was on a kitchen I removed.....I'm not stretch armatromg lol....get out the trusted extendable Yankee and bobs your uncle 🙂
 
well went to have a look at a lodge builder the other day 18mm water proof chip board floor ha ha wanted to tile the whole floor 80 m2 i asked why have you done this was told thats the way we all build these these are split in two then joined on site .they dont tile the whole floor but want to bring in new finishes and tile the whole floor they had one 60% built and one at the base level we changed the floor build up on this one to the real way of doing it in the modern world should end up leading the field with fully tiled floors with under floor heating .some have the brains to move on and some dont .


Personally I wouldn't touch chip board at all! I have heard numerous people saying it is fine to tile onto. Tile Adhesive doesn't take to it.

I prefer ditramatting,no more ply or cement boards. I have never been fan of tiling onto plywood.

If I use plywood, the smallest I would use is 15mm. I have had numerous people in the past, 6mil ply ok? No unfortunately your going to have to get someone else to tile your floor.
 
Something I have always wondered is....what is the difference between 6mm or 9mm screwed every 100mm and 15mm or 18mm screwed every 200mm....surley the floor that is screwed every 100mm is much more solid than the ,200mm floor?

Can someone clear this up for me as it boggles me
 
Something I have always wondered is....what is the difference between 6mm or 9mm screwed every 100mm and 15mm or 18mm screwed every 200mm....surley the floor that is screwed every 100mm is much more solid than the ,200mm floor?

Can someone clear this up for me as it boggles me


One word movement. Easy as that. 6mm ply is thin and very flexible. It doesn't matter is there is a million screws in it or not, it will always flex. The thicker the ply the more sturdy it is and less prone to movement and flex.
 
I disagree... How can it move if it's glued and screwed down every 100mm?....I need hard cold evidence of the difference?
 
because of what it is glued and screwed to, if that has flex in it then so will 6mm ply. The thicker the ply the stiffer it will all become
 
So If the floor boards or chipboard are solid there is no difference between 6mm or 18mm ply. If the 6 is glued and screwed every 100?
 
ply is maid in layers 6 mm ply will be three ply witch is easy to bend the next would be 12.5 mm as i have never come across 15mm ply this will be 5 layers the next would be 18 mm ply 7 layers the next 25mm ply 9 layers each layer adds strenght a 6 mm ply will not add any strenght to a floor and will move and flex with it .12.5 mm
ply will add strenght to floor boards or chip board .but not to joist fixing in one layer .the ply should be wbp and should be red i coulor .but times have moved on and there are much better products to use today .if you see all advice as putting you down you need to ask your self why ?
 
I disagree... How can it move if it's glued and screwed down every 100mm?....I need hard cold evidence of the difference?


Disagree with me all you like. The bottom line is this, you tile a floor with 6mm ply (regardless of how many screws you use!)
You Have problems with it. Your customer wants the floor fixed, they make a claim against you. Your insurance company sends an auditor out to access the job. The outcome of the audit is that you have used 6mm ply, against British standards. Your insurance class that as 'bad workmanship'. Your claim gets rejected. You are now liable to fix the floor or pay for someone else to fix your floor. Disagree with me all you like but for your own wallet and reputation don't use 6mm ply. End of..
 
why would you want to use any thickness of ply to cover floor boards or chipboard floor if they are both stable and solid when there are so may better products out the to prep these floors ready to take tiles?
 
So because the insurance company says we can't use certain ply then we don't....it won't be long and no ply is allowed with insurance company's.... Don't get me wrong I wouldn't use 6mm ply on my bathroom floor I would use hardi board....but its not about me or my methods.

I have personally never seen a failed floor on 6mm ply that has been fixed correctly....I have seen tiles straight onto chipboard and also floor boards lol
 
It isn't insurance company's that set the rules, it is British standards. Personally I wouldn't touch a chipboard floor, even using sbr bonding the adhesive doesn't take to it.

Going directly onto floor boards is very risky, again due to movement. In older houses especially. I am also not keen going directly onto green chipboard found in new houses either.
 
It isn't insurance company's that set the rules, it is British standards. Personally I wouldn't touch a chipboard floor, even using sbr bonding the adhesive doesn't take to it.

Going directly onto floor boards is very risky, again due to movement. In older houses especially. I am also not keen going directly onto green chipboard found in new houses either.
Actually, British Standards don't set the rules. The insurance companies set their own - they use a trade industry as a guidance.

Before matting, we used to tile onto floorboards with a specialist adhesive - it can be done it is just that technology has moved on so things can be fixed quicker and unfortunately, with less skill.

That is probably the reason why all tiles were small compared to what we use today.
 
So If the floor boards or chipboard are solid there is no difference between 6mm or 18mm ply. If the 6 is glued and screwed every 100?
If the subfloor is solid then just overboard with 6mm cement boards or insulation boards....why would you use 6mm ply? Apart from trying to save a few quid...you ever cut a sheet of 6mm ply and seen how easy the layers come apart .
 

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