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Grout keeps cracking on new tile floor installation

Hi there

First of all, I am VERY happy to have found this forum, as I have been pulling my hair out over this issue. I'll apologise now if this explanation is elongated, but better to have more information than less right?

Ok, this is my situation. I have been renovating my house, and had one company do the bathroom and kitchen installation. They were not cheap, but they did do 'almost' excellent job. The kitchen is fantastic, but the bathroom is where I have been experiencing issues. It is not a very big bathroom, at a guess, about 30ft squared. Enough to fit in a basin, toilet and offset quadrant shower cubicle. I chose to have the floor and half the walls tiled using porcelain tiles (£75 per sq m). These tiles are extremely durable (the toughest they had used according to the installers). Anyway, a couple of months in, the grouting cracked floor and some wall grout). They came round, and redid the cracked parts. A few months later, it cracked again, but only on the floor. I have called the company several times, to be told they will get back to me. Of course they don't. Anyway, after a particularly angry call from myself, I got a call back from the owner, saying that they can come and replace it again, but cannot do so until after the new year as they are so busy.

He also stated that this has never happened, and that they use top grade grout. He said that if it cracks again, then it must be the subfloor and that there is nothing more they can do.

I am trying to ascertain my rights with regard to this matter. I have been reading up on trading standards, consumer rights, etc. And from what I understand, it is the builders responsibility to resolve, is that right? I believe that the issue IS with the subfloor. I don't think any tiles have cracked as they are so hardy.

I have read conflicting information about installing on a wooden subfloor, but the majority of what I read say you should lay at least 15mm of plywood or backerboard onto the wooden floor in order to stabilise it. He has laid, what appears to be, 2 sheets of plywood at 3mm each, and with some additional plywood inbetween these 2 sheets. On top of the plywood is a thick layer of thinset. I have attached some pictures so you can see what I mean. Are there any specific standards which state the minimum thickness of plywood that should be used?

Are there any actual standards (rather than recommended guidelines) to adhere to when laying tiles over a wooden subfloor? For example, you HAVE to use XXmm thickness of plywood. If I can identify where the fault lies, then I can hopefully get them to fix it. I am also now 4 months pregnant, so need all this resolved as soon as possible (this is my only bathroom in the house). Also, if they have to rip it up and redo, can I use the same tiles? I cannot afford to purchase more, as they were too expensive.

Thank you in advance for all your advice.

2013-10-18 08.45.27.jpg2013-10-18 08.45.50.jpg2013-10-18 08.46.08.jpg2013-10-18 08.46.46.jpg
 
British standards stipulates 15mm minimum. Sounds tonme like the prep work was minimal. Ive never tiled in ply for years.

Rip up redo job in my opinion. They should pay for it all. Tiles will maybe come loose at some point.
That looks like 9mm ply.

Sorry for short reply but im at work and have 5 mins waiting in grout. 🙂
 
Thank you very much for taking the time out to answer. To be honest, that was all I needed to know. If that is the standard, then he has not adhered to it!

Do you know where I can actually find the actual paperwork/information for British Standards so I can state this in a letter to them? 'Refer to Section 'xyz' on page 234, title 'blah blah blah'' - if that makes any sense at all......

I want to be as succinct and informed as possible, so he cannot attempt to weasel out of responsibility.

When you have time to reply of course. Thanks again
 
yeah it looks like they tiled straight to the ply which is generally thought of as bad practice, and not something that many tilers would do anymore. also the adhesive bed looks very thick too. was the floor way out of level? as above with the way to go, at least it's not a big floor so wouldn't be too much work to rip out and replace.
 
Hi John

Thanks for your answer. What is considered 'good practice'? I don't really want them to come and redo the job if they are going to do it badly again. I don't think the floor was way out of level because it originally had thin laminate laid onto it (without the plywood) and that was fine (not uneven at all).

I did think the thinset (is that what is is called) was laid thickly. And to be honest, the tile near the door exit, if a pull at it, it feels loose. I think with a little bit of elbow grease, I could probably yank it up. Not sure whether this is related or not, but thought I'd mention it.

So in your experience, I can go back to the original builders and say that this is unacceptable and it would be their responsibility to repair it? (or, even better, I can get someone else to do the work, and do it 'correctly' and get them to pay for it)?

Thanks
 
Hi John

I replied to your post, but cannot seem to see whether it was received? Not sure if I am being a dunce or not. Anyway, I wanted to say thanks and also ask about what is considered as good practice when tiling. Thanks again
 
Id have a stab at dot n dabbing the tiles too. Maybe a non flex adhesive used also but that would be completely on the amateur side of things.
 
Your posts wont need moderator approval from now on. I've manually checked the account for you.
 
Hi John

Thanks for your answer. What is considered 'good practice'?

Thanks

well, when tiling to wooden floors they need to be stable and without bounce, then primed, and a suitable backer board overlaid. there are several different types of these, such as hardibacker which is a cement board or insulation boards such as kerdi, wedi or marmox. these need to be fixed with adhesive then screwed at 150mm centres, which gives a good substrate to tile to. if the floors are ply then ditra mat or durabase could be used too. hope this helps. cheers

john
 
this is from BS 5385 that deals with wooden substrates;

6.2.4.2 Sheets and boards
Sheets and boards include the materials listed in 6.1.2.6, except
plasterboards; sheets or boards should be adequately braced to
provide a rigid surface, be free from any springiness and surface
undulations and undergo no subsequent distortion during and after
completion of the tiling. Wherever possible, the boards should be
screwed, not nailed, to the supporting framework.
In general, where the sheet or board has a smooth and a rough side,
the latter should be used for tiling. The surface to receive the tiles
should be clean and free from dust and other forms of
contamination.
The use of sheets and boards that are subject to movement from
changes in moisture content, e.g. wood-based materials such as
plywood, chipboard, wood particle boards, etc., should be avoided if
at all possible. If such boards have to be used, they should be
restricted to small areas and tiles should not bridge joints between
boards. All exposed edges and the backs, but not the faces, of such
boards should be sealed with a suitable sealer to prevent distortion
by atmospheric humidity changes. Care should be taken to ensure
such boards are not installed in a condition where their moisture
content is higher than the ambient equilibrium moisture content
once the tiled installation is in use; failure to observe this can lead to
subsequent warping and distortion of the boards with consequent
cracking and delamination of the tiling.
you can refer to this when you next speak to your builder. cheers.

john
 
One last thing John, do you have an extract that stipulates the 15mm minimum requirement - or will I find it in the BS 5385 document? I'm trying to find a copy that I don't have to pay for.

Jees, didn't realise you have to PAY for standards. I would have thought that information would be free!
 
Hi Bex ,from looking at the photos ,regardless of using top grade grout if they did, the tiles look loose ,the best grout in the world wouldn't be able to sort that,so what you have too look at is getting the lot taken up and redone properly, re-grouting is not going to sort out the problem.

Who done the prep work ? the builder or the tiler ? or where they one in the same?.
Unfortunately it appears there is no quick fix am afraid.
 
Hi mz30

Alas, I think I had already resigned myself to that fact (that it would have to be redone). The builder and tiler were the one and same.

When I spoke to him on the phone, he was rather dismissive, and said that if it cracked again, then there is nothing that they can really do. However, it appears that he did a substandard job.

What is frustrating is that it is not as if I tried to do it on the cheap. I paid around the £6k mark for this blooming bathroom!!! <sigh>
 
The thing is bex is the fact that they done all the work so he is responsible for prep, he cant blame the substrate as it was his job to make sure it was sound before he tiled it, dont let him fob you off,i'll guarantee if you put a suction cup on one of those floor tiles they will lift straight out as it appears the grout is the only thing holding them in place,where in the uk are you am sure one of the lads off the forum local too you ,would pop round and give you advice.
 
It does look like the builder isn't going to accept that it's HIS fault. So if that is the case.......(he'll mess about and give various excuses) you have 2 options.

1. Bite the bullet and get it done right, by someone who knows wot he's doing, but you pay for it.

2. Take legal action against the builder, then get it put right. Will take longer though.
 
That would be amazing if they could. I am based in Luton, Bedfordshire. I'd be happy to pay someone to come out and give me their professional opinion.

Like I said, I would much rather a professional tiler redo the work. I plan on calling this guy, telling him my findings, and see what he says (although I can guarantee he will try and fob me off). I will then politely inform him to expect a letter from myself. In the letter, I will state my findings, with the required literature, and then specify a date in which I wish the work to be complete. I intend to include a quote from someone else, and if they cannot complete the work in the time specified, then they will be billed for the cost of redoing by this other professional (this is all inline with Consumer Rights - the process to follow as defined by them).

The company was actually based in luton, but they moved up north (a good few hours drive away). I also know that he is apparently fully booked for the next several months.

So in conclusion, if anyone else, local to me (bedfordshire Hertfordshire) is happy to come and look, there could be an additional job in it for them. Preferably to be complete before Crimbo!
 
Definitely option 2!! As much as I want it done now, I am not prepared to be out of pocket for someone else's incompetence. He's just hoping that I will do the former, hence why I cannot let this buffoon get away with it! But I'm feeling a lot more positive now that I have had all your feedback. At least I now know that I am in the right!

Thanks everyone. I really appreciate your help on this matter!
 
Looks like 12mm ply to me. Bet it's fastened down with builders favourite. Clout nails. Then the cheapest powder adhesive available. Get him back and tell him you are going to get an expert opinion and have it relayed at his cost ( upfront)
i wouldn't try the courts myself as it will take ages and if he has nothing and is a limited company your chances are slim.
Try and appeal to his better judgement , if he has any.
 
What concerns me is the thickness bed of the adhesive, I can't believe they would have laid it that thick all over.....
 

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