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Discuss Grout keeps cracking on new tile floor installation in the Canada Tile Advice area at TilersForums.com.

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Hi there

First of all, I am VERY happy to have found this forum, as I have been pulling my hair out over this issue. I'll apologise now if this explanation is elongated, but better to have more information than less right?

Ok, this is my situation. I have been renovating my house, and had one company do the bathroom and kitchen installation. They were not cheap, but they did do 'almost' excellent job. The kitchen is fantastic, but the bathroom is where I have been experiencing issues. It is not a very big bathroom, at a guess, about 30ft squared. Enough to fit in a basin, toilet and offset quadrant shower cubicle. I chose to have the floor and half the walls tiled using porcelain tiles (£75 per sq m). These tiles are extremely durable (the toughest they had used according to the installers). Anyway, a couple of months in, the grouting cracked floor and some wall grout). They came round, and redid the cracked parts. A few months later, it cracked again, but only on the floor. I have called the company several times, to be told they will get back to me. Of course they don't. Anyway, after a particularly angry call from myself, I got a call back from the owner, saying that they can come and replace it again, but cannot do so until after the new year as they are so busy.

He also stated that this has never happened, and that they use top grade grout. He said that if it cracks again, then it must be the subfloor and that there is nothing more they can do.

I am trying to ascertain my rights with regard to this matter. I have been reading up on trading standards, consumer rights, etc. And from what I understand, it is the builders responsibility to resolve, is that right? I believe that the issue IS with the subfloor. I don't think any tiles have cracked as they are so hardy.

I have read conflicting information about installing on a wooden subfloor, but the majority of what I read say you should lay at least 15mm of plywood or backerboard onto the wooden floor in order to stabilise it. He has laid, what appears to be, 2 sheets of plywood at 3mm each, and with some additional plywood inbetween these 2 sheets. On top of the plywood is a thick layer of thinset. I have attached some pictures so you can see what I mean. Are there any specific standards which state the minimum thickness of plywood that should be used?

Are there any actual standards (rather than recommended guidelines) to adhere to when laying tiles over a wooden subfloor? For example, you HAVE to use XXmm thickness of plywood. If I can identify where the fault lies, then I can hopefully get them to fix it. I am also now 4 months pregnant, so need all this resolved as soon as possible (this is my only bathroom in the house). Also, if they have to rip it up and redo, can I use the same tiles? I cannot afford to purchase more, as they were too expensive.

Thank you in advance for all your advice.

2013-10-18 08.45.27.jpg 2013-10-18 08.45.50.jpg 2013-10-18 08.46.08.jpg 2013-10-18 08.46.46.jpg
 

cam_low

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British standards stipulates 15mm minimum. Sounds tonme like the prep work was minimal. Ive never tiled in ply for years.

Rip up redo job in my opinion. They should pay for it all. Tiles will maybe come loose at some point.
That looks like 9mm ply.

Sorry for short reply but im at work and have 5 mins waiting in grout. :)
 
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Thank you very much for taking the time out to answer. To be honest, that was all I needed to know. If that is the standard, then he has not adhered to it!

Do you know where I can actually find the actual paperwork/information for British Standards so I can state this in a letter to them? 'Refer to Section 'xyz' on page 234, title 'blah blah blah'' - if that makes any sense at all......

I want to be as succinct and informed as possible, so he cannot attempt to weasel out of responsibility.

When you have time to reply of course. Thanks again
 
J

johnryan

yeah it looks like they tiled straight to the ply which is generally thought of as bad practice, and not something that many tilers would do anymore. also the adhesive bed looks very thick too. was the floor way out of level? as above with the way to go, at least it's not a big floor so wouldn't be too much work to rip out and replace.
 
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Hi John

Thanks for your answer. What is considered 'good practice'? I don't really want them to come and redo the job if they are going to do it badly again. I don't think the floor was way out of level because it originally had thin laminate laid onto it (without the plywood) and that was fine (not uneven at all).

I did think the thinset (is that what is is called) was laid thickly. And to be honest, the tile near the door exit, if a pull at it, it feels loose. I think with a little bit of elbow grease, I could probably yank it up. Not sure whether this is related or not, but thought I'd mention it.

So in your experience, I can go back to the original builders and say that this is unacceptable and it would be their responsibility to repair it? (or, even better, I can get someone else to do the work, and do it 'correctly' and get them to pay for it)?

Thanks
 
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Hi John

I replied to your post, but cannot seem to see whether it was received? Not sure if I am being a dunce or not. Anyway, I wanted to say thanks and also ask about what is considered as good practice when tiling. Thanks again
 
J

johnryan

Hi John

Thanks for your answer. What is considered 'good practice'?

Thanks

well, when tiling to wooden floors they need to be stable and without bounce, then primed, and a suitable backer board overlaid. there are several different types of these, such as hardibacker which is a cement board or insulation boards such as kerdi, wedi or marmox. these need to be fixed with adhesive then screwed at 150mm centres, which gives a good substrate to tile to. if the floors are ply then ditra mat or durabase could be used too. hope this helps. cheers

john
 
J

johnryan

this is from BS 5385 that deals with wooden substrates;

6.2.4.2 Sheets and boards
Sheets and boards include the materials listed in 6.1.2.6, except
plasterboards; sheets or boards should be adequately braced to
provide a rigid surface, be free from any springiness and surface
undulations and undergo no subsequent distortion during and after
completion of the tiling. Wherever possible, the boards should be
screwed, not nailed, to the supporting framework.
In general, where the sheet or board has a smooth and a rough side,
the latter should be used for tiling. The surface to receive the tiles
should be clean and free from dust and other forms of
contamination.
The use of sheets and boards that are subject to movement from
changes in moisture content, e.g. wood-based materials such as
plywood, chipboard, wood particle boards, etc., should be avoided if
at all possible. If such boards have to be used, they should be
restricted to small areas and tiles should not bridge joints between
boards. All exposed edges and the backs, but not the faces, of such
boards should be sealed with a suitable sealer to prevent distortion
by atmospheric humidity changes. Care should be taken to ensure
such boards are not installed in a condition where their moisture
content is higher than the ambient equilibrium moisture content
once the tiled installation is in use; failure to observe this can lead to
subsequent warping and distortion of the boards with consequent
cracking and delamination of the tiling.
you can refer to this when you next speak to your builder. cheers.

john
 
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One last thing John, do you have an extract that stipulates the 15mm minimum requirement - or will I find it in the BS 5385 document? I'm trying to find a copy that I don't have to pay for.

Jees, didn't realise you have to PAY for standards. I would have thought that information would be free!
 

mz30

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Hi Bex ,from looking at the photos ,regardless of using top grade grout if they did, the tiles look loose ,the best grout in the world wouldn't be able to sort that,so what you have too look at is getting the lot taken up and redone properly, re-grouting is not going to sort out the problem.

Who done the prep work ? the builder or the tiler ? or where they one in the same?.
Unfortunately it appears there is no quick fix am afraid.
 
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Hi mz30

Alas, I think I had already resigned myself to that fact (that it would have to be redone). The builder and tiler were the one and same.

When I spoke to him on the phone, he was rather dismissive, and said that if it cracked again, then there is nothing that they can really do. However, it appears that he did a substandard job.

What is frustrating is that it is not as if I tried to do it on the cheap. I paid around the £6k mark for this blooming bathroom!!! <sigh>
 

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