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T

Tile Shop

Thanks Paul.

Very helpful. The wall is pretty level (30-60 cm height x 2-3 m long).

We are using porcelain tile (10mm) what brand of s1/2 adhesive would you recommend?

Unfortunately we have not put in a damp proof on the back of the brick which has been filled with soil! The brick's water absorption level is less than 7%. Would this still be problematic for sulphates?

The 3 most popular choices of adhesives among tilers on here are Mapei, Weber and Tilemaster. With porcelain, you will be fine using a slow setting adhesive so something like Keraflex S1, Weberset SPF or TM Standard Setaflex (rapid setting versions of each are available)

Now, about your sulphates...... yes they could be a problem. Unless you are prepared to dig the soil out, wash and dry out the wall and put some form of tanking, there are no guarantees. Without it, you'll be lucky if you get 2 successful years out of your adhesive. Maybe 3 if you add some extra polymer to the mix.

There are some DPM's but neither Ardex or Mapei are able to offer a confident answer to whether they work for a wall situation, so at your own risk if you want to attempt it.

Now, although its not designed for this, but I can see no reason why this would not work, my "idea" is to use Marmox 6mm Multiboard (suitable for external use), screwed to the wall at 150 to 200mm intervals using their fixings and washers, tape the joints with the Marmox waterproof tape, tape over the washers too and that has a 90% chance of surviving beyond the 2 years as it will repel moisture from both directions.

At that short height all this probably sounds overkill, but its the only way I can see it having half a chance.
 

Bond

TF
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Regarding the sulphate problem, you could apply (by brush) an anti-sulphate solution, to the mortar lines, to prevent the migration of sulphates to the surface, and therefore prevent sulphate damage to the adhesive.
 

Andy Allen

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s4456.gif
We will make a tiler out of him one day..:)
 
S

space refurbs

Hi all, got a job in London W14 for an experienced Victorian Tiler.

The finish will be black and white.

The existing steps on the main pathway are solid with no cracks.

The area is approx 1.5m x 4m

There are also 9 stairs that adjoin the main pathway but go down to a basement flat. These will need some repairs and then need to be tiled also (same tiles).
Please include all materials (including tiles) and labour and price each area separately ( as different clients need to approve costs).

IMG_3502.jpg IMG_3501.jpg
 
O

Old Mod

Thanks for posting your job! It’s not the ideal time to be tiling outdoors

@3_fall is this job in your catchment ?

It is Andy, and I appreciate the mention, thank you.
However, my current commitments carry me comfortably in to next year, and that notwithstanding, I don’t think I can cut them with my Kera Cut. :D

I think @timeless john is probably better suited than I presently. :)
 

Filip

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I will be tiling an outdoor area, although outdoors it has a roof and 3 sides. The area is higher than the joining slabs with a slope which is on the the open side so it does get rain sometimes blown in onto it, also when being in the garden would have wet feet so it needs to be slip proof. The width is about 5 inches - see pictures. I will be tiling with a light grey colour tile and was thinking of an aluminium ribbed 5 inch wide profile. Any other ideas. And can I stick such a profile with the tile ady after a good going over on the back of the aluminium with an angle grinder.

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W

WetSaw

Can you not take it up and make it the same level as the rest? If not, cut it back so it's in line with the post to the left and have a step. A slope outside the door maybe a bit of a hazard.
 

Filip

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Thanks. we have had it like that for 19 years with the slope I used to paint it but have got fed up with re doing it so although the slope has been painted I think it has spent most of its time as bare concrete that is not slippy. Would like to keep as a slope.
Taking up the whole 2.7x2.7 area concrete is NOT to happen :eek::D.
I can find stair nosing's but not 2.7m long or 5 inch wide.
I am thinking maybe find some sheets of ribbed aluminium and cut them to the same width as the tiles - say 450mm then 5 inch deep and lay them on the slope as a tile, at least that way I sort of wont have joins with 3 lengths of too short stair nosing.
 
L

Lesley Green

New member here. I have a cat cabin and a run which is exposed to the weather. I want to put floor tiles down soon but not sure which type of tile is suitable. They will need to put up with summer heat/sun and also freezing cold in winter.
I see that outdoor tiles tend to be very thick and I don't have much room under the doors.
Any ideas which type of tile to use? I am worried about them cracking or breaking. Photo of cat house attached. Thank you in advance.

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