movement felt in 600x600 porcelane tiles

[sWe]

If you are laying tiles onto a ply overlay, my choice would be Ardex-flex 7001. Designed specifically for that type of job. Mixed very thin as standard to give a solid bed without back buttering. Makes it go a long way as well as you can generally use a smaller notch trowel.

I recently did a floor of 7m2, 300x300 ceramics and used 1 bag.

That's what I like about Ardex: They've got general use products, but they've also got a wide range of task specific products as well. Very often, they've got better m2 coverage than competing products, lessening the cost per m2.

So while Ardex are more expensive per bag, they're frequently only little, or no more expensive per m2 than products from other brands.

 

[Kobbie]

Hello and welcome

 

[aejrd]

yes we are but as i said ctd are only responding 2 competition and 19.95+vat is still more expensive than 12.99+vat for a product thats as good if not better
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if u havnt tried keraquick yet giv it a go its brill.. i dont think there is any difference btween the 2 of them ..and i used 2 swear by 7001 ,used it 4 years but is was getn 2 b silly money about 21quid with my discount!!

 

[grumpygrouter]

yes we are but as i said ctd are only responding 2 competition and 19.95+vat is still more expensive than 12.99+vat for a product thats as good if not better
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if u havnt tried keraquick yet giv it a go its brill.. i dont think there is any difference btween the 2 of them ..and i used 2 swear by 7001 ,used it 4 years but is was getn 2 b silly money about 21quid with my discount!!

I assume you are just lay it straight down on the timber surface than and have not used the Latex Plus additive the Mapei recommend for timber?

 

[aejrd]

I assume you are just lay it straight down on the timber surface than and have not used the Latex Plus additive the Mapei recommend for timber?

u only need the latex in if your using it on chipboard or tongue and groove..it is specifically intended for plywood when mixed with water check the spec if u doubt wot i say bonny lad

 

[sWe]

This is what the spec for Keraquick states:

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Use Keraquick with latex plus in the following cases:

• On deformable substrates (gypsum boards, asbestos cement, etc)
• For exterior installation of large-size tiles
• For fixing to timber bases

----------

Doesn't say anything about chipboard or plywood specifically, just that you're supposed to use the latex additive if you're fixing onto timber bases. Aren't both ply and chipboard timber considered timber bases?

Where's the guy who works for Mapei?

 

[aejrd]

hes called peter u must hav a different book to me coz thats not wot mine says !! anyway ive been using it 4 2 years now neva had a pick of bother no cracked grout no loose tiles nothing!! only used it with latex twice once directly on2 floorboards porcelain 60x30 22mtrs in a kitchen and once directly on2 floorboards 40x40 slate on a 1st floor landing 21mtrs both in darrass hall and no bother with either one evry one i know uses it all the time .thats why ctd hav finally decided to sell it to the trade only ..coz we all stopped buying from them..but hey if u dont want 2 know thats fine by me!!

 

[sWe]

but hey if u dont want 2 know thats fine by me!!

Know what? :huh2:

 

[aejrd]

how its cheaper than ardex

 

[grumpygrouter]

You must have got you info from the "Cermic Products Range" black book. It states in there that kerequick is suitable for marine ply. For other timber based surfaces it states use Latex Plus.

Now we all know marine ply is very expensive, is this because it is more stable? probably.

To follow your last post, how is it cheaper than Ardex?

 

[sWe]

It doesn't really matter for me anyways. I really like Ardex. Their products haven't failed me yet, and they give good technical support. Besides, Mapei hasn't got a dealer in the city where I live, and the local Ardex dealer gives me 30% off, so this a purely academic discussion for me.

I'm sure Mapei is a good brand though.

 

[Spud]

in your original post you didnt say what tile joint size you used ,also did you allow a gap between the sheets of ply wood when you over boarded the chip board ,the correct method should be 3mm gaps between the plywood sheets cross boarded against the joints in the chipboard ,priming one side on the plywood unbalances the ply wood bal technical advise priming both sides of the ply and then screwing it down there is no guaranteed method of tiling onto wooden substrates and the best practice is using cbus that is cement backer board to the unaquainted but again the floor should not have any deflection in certain circumstances un coupling systems work well but are not advised for food preparation areas due to water penertration under the matting

 

[busyalready]

I Back Butter Large Format Tiles As Well As Trowelling The Floor Although It Takes A Bit Longer And Can Be A Bit Messy. But If You Back Butter A Big Tle And Try And Lift It Even Immediately After It Has Made Contact With The Floor It Is Really Hard.(10mil Trowel)and Dont Mix Too Much Adhesive Up At A Time, Making Sure It's Not Going Off, An Ounce Of Prevention....you Know What They Say. I Use Nanolight And So Far I Haven't Had Any Problems On Plywood And Concrete Floors Etc. Nanolight Is Made By Pci I Think And Comes In A 15kg Bag And Gives Good Coverage. It's In A Really Bright White And Orange Striped Bag!! Have Used Some Rapiset Flexi Adhesives And They Have Gone Off In Like 8 Minutes Which Is Hopeless As You Can't Use It And Have To Bin It.

 

[Perry]

I Back Butter Large Format Tiles As Well As Trowelling The Floor Although It Takes A Bit Longer And Can Be A Bit Messy. But If You Back Butter A Big Tle And Try And Lift It Even Immediately After It Has Made Contact With The Floor It Is Really Hard.(10mil Trowel)and Dont Mix Too Much Adhesive Up At A Time, Making Sure It's Not Going Off, An Ounce Of Prevention....you Know What They Say. I Use Nanolight And So Far I Haven't Had Any Problems On Plywood And Concrete Floors Etc. Nanolight Is Made By Pci I Think And Comes In A 15kg Bag And Gives Good Coverage. It's In A Really Bright White And Orange Striped Bag!! Have Used Some Rapiset Flexi Adhesives And They Have Gone Off In Like 8 Minutes Which Is Hopeless As You Can't Use It And Have To Bin It.

you should always butter the backs of large floor tiles unless you are using PTB although Nanolite doesn't necessary need to be buttered, Nanolite shouldn't really be used on ply you need to use Nanolite rapid, should only use rapid on timber never slow set but used to use it all the time once without any problems but a adhesive with a admix is a better spec than SPF 😛ete

 

[aejrd]

like i said there is about 20 of us who use it all the time on bog standard plywood we get from the tile shop wtc . £8 for a 8x4sheet of 6mm £9.50 for 9mm cut and delivered to site..no one has a bad word to say about it there has been no failures and u hav to remember the manufactures hav to b careful in their promises ..they hav to cover their backs thats why they all say 18mm ply coz they no its highly unlikely any body is gonna use that for private work!!

 

[grumpygrouter]

like i said there is about 20 of us who use it all the time on bog standard plywood we get from the tile shop wtc . £8 for a 8x4sheet of 6mm £9.50 for 9mm cut and delivered to site..no one has a bad word to say about it there has been no failures and u hav to remember the manufactures hav to b careful in their promises ..they hav to cover their backs thats why they all say 18mm ply coz they no its highly unlikely any body is gonna use that for private work!!

Wouldn't have anything to do with British Standards then?

 

[DHTiling]

in your original post you didnt say what tile joint size you used ,also did you allow a gap between the sheets of ply wood when you over boarded the chip board ,the correct method should be 3mm gaps between the plywood sheets cross boarded against the joints in the chipboard ,priming one side on the plywood unbalances the ply wood bal technical advise priming both sides of the ply and then screwing it down there is no guaranteed method of tiling onto wooden substrates and the best practice is using cbus that is cement backer board to the unaquainted but again the floor should not have any deflection in certain circumstances un coupling systems work well but are not advised for food preparation areas due to water penertration under the matting

Gary, BAL recommend that you only prime the back and sides of ply and not the face side......

always check because some manufactures say prime and some don't.......

 

[Gazzer]

Just about to say the same myself Dave....but does anyone know why they say only one side and edges?.

 

[DHTiling]

simply because they say there adhesive will grab the ply better without the primer............

 

[aejrd]

cant b arsed to argue with u u must use 18mm all the time do u?

 

[Perry]

Just about to say the same myself Dave....but does anyone know why they say only one side and edges?.

And to help stop the moisture getting in from the back and edges once tiled😛ete

 

[GazTech]

cant b arsed to argue with u u must use 18mm all the time do u?

Without using manufacturers recommendations, you put yourself at risk of guarantee. If you tell your customer that you only work to British Standards or industry recomendation, they will be well impressed and it gives you credability and the customer confidence in you....Gaz

 

[busyalready]

forgot to say i use nanolight rapid... never use the slow stufff.

 

[monty]

Hello and welcome to the forums...... 😉

 

[Perry]

forgot to say i use Nanolite rapid... never use the slow stufff.

Sorry wasn't having a go Nanolite is the business a bit expensive the slow set is the best thing you can use on walls 😛ete

 

[aejrd]

i also wouldnt get any work at all no one wants there floors up that much anyway most washers only just fit under the work tops as it is .then u have to tell them they need all their doors off and cut then the latex admix coupled with the 18mm ply.a 20mtr kitchen would cost 500quid b4 u start..its hard enuff makin a living without talking yrself out of a job they wud just say ok i will get back to you...and some other bloke would get the job.u have to live in the real world m8,

 

[sevman]

Managed to get the manager from topps round today. Basicly as a company they refused to accept blame, however as a token of good will they have offered to supply any adhesive/grout required to re tile. (or a refund). Their get out clause is that I used 12mm ply not 18mm, even though the manager admitted the floor was good and strong. They stock BAL so is this the best route to go down or should I get a refund and go for another adhesive from else where?

 

[DHTiling]

Thanks for the up-date...use bal and get Fast-flex from them.....wide joint grout and GT1 admix...much stronger job.................good luck....

P.s. still not guaranteed to work but for nothing its worth a go...i still think the floor needs more prep as well......

 

[CJ]

Unless I missed it. ????

Is, or was this a floating floor????????????????????????????

 

[sevman]

yes, 22mm chipboard, 12mm marine ply. Both glued and screwed. 600x600 porcelane tiles. Cheers

 

[CJ]

Floating floor bites back again.

I generally shy well away from floaters............more trouble than they are worth :furious3: