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celt

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HAve a wee job on and wondering how to price it. Seeing as im not a fully qualified tiler, i wouldnt rip the arm with it because theres still alot to learn IMO. If pricing talk is not aloud on here, wondering how long would it take you to tile this area. Its a sq large hallway and its 4.5mx3.8m and a small hallway branching of this at 4mx1.75m. The tiles used will be 450mmx450mm and ceramic with 5mm spacers and grouted with grey grout.
 
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Assuming that the prep was good, I'd expect that to take me 2-3 days

I was thinking 2.5 days for the big hall and 1.2-1.5 days for the other hall. The reason why i say this for the smaller hall is that its a tight wee hall and would need alot of cuts. When looking at the job, i didnt have my large straight edge/level with me but the lady said that when she maps up, she gets a puddle forming at a certin spot so itll need self leveling some of it. Will check it when go back with a price for her then add more on. Cant see sorting the floor out taking more than a half aday, would this be right ?
 
I've read threads with more information from a complete novice DIY'er than this one and you are going to charge some unsuspecting customer!
 
Concrete floor? wooden floor to be boarded etc?
Door archi's and skirting boards already fitted?


Yes concrete floor and door archis/skirting fitted. I would just tile up to the skirting and tile around the archi's. I know i could take them off but dont see the pint when i can just tile up to them.
 
and this is what I am up against weekly here


To be fair, i do know what im doing and have already done many a job and left it good. I have came up against this in my own trade but you just have to deal with it im afraid. Its not as if im going to turn up, throw any aul rubbish down , get the money and walk away. I will leave a good job and will take my time at it. I wont be rushing it just to get the days pay. If it takes a tiler 3 days to do this job and it takes me 5, then ill only charge for the 3 and put the other 2 down to experience. We all have to start somewhwere but i do understand your anger because i could be any aul fool on the internet looking to make a quick buck but i can asure you i aint.
 
5mm Spacers!!!


Yes 5mm spacers. This is the spacers that the customer was recommended by the tiling place. Just because your prob used to laying 3 and 4mm spacers doesnt mean that one cant lay 5mm.

Would love to know the real reason you posted 5mm Spacers!!!
 
I've read threads with more information from a complete novice DIY'er than this one and you are going to charge some unsuspecting customer!


Concrete floor and will probably have to self level some parts of it
the size of the halls are 4.5mx3.8m and 4mx1.75m
Using 450mm sq ceramic tiles laid with your basic adhesive/grout and 5mm spacers.
Skirting board and archi's already installed.

Would there not be enough information there for a basic answer from you. I cant see how one would need more information just for a rough price.

All im asking is for some help. I was actually recommended to this cple from the last job i done so i must be doing something right. I will take some pics of the job and yous can rip me to pieces or pat me on the back for a job well done 😉
 
you sure you know what your doing..?

you shouldn't be training to be a tiler at a customers expense..


Whys this. I can guarantee i will leave a good job. Its not as if im just turning up with not knowing what to do because i have tiled a few jobs already in all my years of working.

I will makes sure that the floor is as flat as can be with self leveling and will set out the tiles properly. Makes sure theres no tiles sitting higher than others and will use the right amnount of adhesive, run a level over the tiles when setting them to make sure they are all running in a continuous line in all directions. And will be grouting as normal going over it a few times with a dry cloth when grout set or is just about set. Job done! (if they will be using light coloured grout, i will seal with appropriate spray sealer so to keep clean) You tell me what can go wrong here if i follow all what ive said above.
 
Whys this. I can guarantee i will leave a good job. Its not as if im just turning up with not knowing what to do because i have tiled a few jobs already in all my years of working.

I will makes sure that the floor is as flat as can be with self leveling and will set out the tiles properly. Makes sure theres no tiles sitting higher than others and will use the right amnount of adhesive, run a level over the tiles when setting them to make sure they are all running in a continuous line in all directions. And will be grouting as normal going over it a few times with a dry cloth when grout set or is just about set. Job done! (if they will be using light coloured grout, i will seal with appropriate spray sealer so to keep clean) You tell me what can go wrong here if i follow all what ive said above.

Seeing as im not a fully qualified tiler, i wouldnt rip the arm with it because theres still alot to learn

this just about says it all, plus your thread a couple of days ago 'done a few tiling jobs, now thinking of charging'......just asking if you think learning to tile at a customers expense is the right thing to do..?
 
Yes concrete floor and door archis/skirting fitted. I would just tile up to the skirting and tile around the archi's. I know i could take them off but dont see the pint when i can just tile up to them.

If you want to do a proper job and 'leave it good'

Then surely you'll take the architraves off especially if they are mouldings..
 
Seeing as im not a fully qualified tiler, i wouldnt rip the arm with it because theres still alot to learn

this just about says it all, plus your thread a couple of days ago 'done a few tiling jobs, now thinking of charging'......just asking if you think learning to tile at a customers expense is the right thing to do..?


Right, can you explain to me why i shouldnt charge if i dont leave a job just as good as a tiler. I dont see why i shouldnt charge to do a few days work for someone if i leave a job just as good as a trained tiler would. Now, if i did REMOVED up a job(which i know 100% i wont) then i wouldnt charge anyone. Like i have mentioned before in previous threads, i have been working on site since i left school over 15 years ago and am pretty good at what i do. Im not some guy who sits at a desk all day who just had a brain wave about trying to earn a few extra bucks and possiblly REMOVED someones floors/walls up.

In saying all that, i do understand your concern because its all talk over the internet and there are plenty of cowboys out there that turn up, do a half arsed job, get the money then REMOVED off never to be seen again. Im not one of them.
 
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If you want to do a proper job and 'leave it good'

Then surely you'll take the architraves off especially if they are mouldings..


why would i even take them off when i can just lay a dry tile with a spacer or cardboard underneath just so i can get the thickness of the adhesive and cut the archis at the bottom so i can slide the newly installed tile underneath when im laying them. Thats a quicker way to do it and who knows, maybe if you keep popping into my threads, you might just learn something else my friend 😉
 
why would i even take them off when i can just lay a tile with a spacer or cardboard underneath just so i can get teh thickness of the adhesive and cut the archis at the bottom so i can slide the newly installed tile underneath when im laying them. Thats a quicker way to do it and who knows, maybe if you keep popping into my threads, you might just learn something else my friend 😉

Ok pal.
 
Don't we all learn on the job, to a certain extent!?! The way I read it, is that he's trying to get a feel for how long it would take an experienced tiler, so he can charge accordingly, and not rip his customer off by charging for 5 days, what could be done in 3.
i don't really get why this has turned into a lynch mob!?!
 
Seriously though. Do you not think it would be quicker to do this rather than take the arcis off because sometimes you take them off, you can break paint/varnish seals or even dent the timber. Would it not be best to do what i suggest.

A lot depends on how far you are going with the job, and how much the customer wants to spend.. Taking the architraves off will give you the better finish, but will create more work. Cutting the bottoms off is less hassle, but not as good a finish, as you're invariably left with a small gap. 😉
 
Don't we all learn on the job, to a certain extent!?! The way I read it, is that he's trying to get a feel for how long it would take an experienced tiler, so he can charge accordingly, and not rip his customer off by charging for 5 days, what could be done in 3.
i don't really get why this has turned into a lynch mob!?!


Exactly. I really dont know what all that fuss was about. I asked a simple question and its all went pear shaped on me.


P.s, how long would it take yourself to tile this job.
 
Exactly. I really dont know what all that fuss was about. I asked a simple question and its all went pear shaped on me.


P.s, how long would it take yourself to tile this job.

Refer to post 4... Lol! But also, bare in mind that I'm pretty slow. 😉
 
A lot depends on how far you are going with the job, and how much the customer wants to spend.. Taking the architraves off will give you the better finish, but will create more work. Cutting the bottoms off is less hassle, but not as good a finish, as you're invariably left with a small gap. 😉


Not if you cut the arci tight enough, i could slide it in sideways and get a real tight fit. even if it where 1 or 1.5mm, whos going to notice a very small amount of grout like this right at the bottom of the arci.
 
send on a copy of your tax clearance cert and I tell you what I would charge for that type of job
 

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