Tiling to old cottage bathroom walls

[Ttt1601]

im hoping someone has a idea i haven't thought of for this one, tomorrow i night i have to go and price up a bathroom in an old cottage, i did the floor earlier this year, ended up having to put down an epoxy based dpm, with all relevant parties contacted, tec depts, a damp specialist etc etc. now the customer wants the ground floor bathroom fully tiled, the walls are flint lime and horse hair, im pretty sure it had that corrugated bitumen wall dpm installed in the 50s/60s then hardwall and skim over that. but not all areas have this as there is still a couple of little damp spots showing through on 1 external wall. my big question is, it is small room already i really cant afford the space to build a stud framework inside of the existing walls, if i batton it off the walls and fix to that i will penetrate any existing damp measures that are in place and i really wouldnt trust directly fixing to the existing walls.

so you bunch of genisus's any ideas???

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Don't do it!

 

[Ttt1601]

Haha cheers john I knew that was coming from someone

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Wouldn't want to disappoint!
The issue is whether any additional weight will hold to that type of wall construction without mechanical fixings i.e. Dot and dab water resistant plasterboard.

 

[Ttt1601]

I wouldn't want to trust the walls, there is areas where the plaster is blown, not in that room but in other room, even mechanical fixing into the horse hair and lime is hit and miss, I was hoping there was something I had missed as a new method really

 

[Chalker]

Can you construct a timber wall. Detached from the existing.

 

[Ttt1601]

Yea I can, ita just a very tight space, I doubt the customer would be happy about the losing any of the room, if its my only option then it is, as I say I was just hoping one you wise men knew something I didn't

 

[LM]

So how much room or depth have you got to play with then and let's try and work back from that.

 

[Ttt1601]

From the shower do to the opasite wall is about 5 ft but the sink is hung off it, don't have the dimensions to hand will have a remeasure tomorrow to know exact sizes, studding it out would mean moving all the plumbing, which iant a bad thing as I could change the layout but it is a very old cottage the reveals are already about 2 foot deep.

 

[One Day]

You could line it with wedi / kerdi board and treat it as a wet area.
12mm boards dabbed and anchored into the existing walls.
Even if you penetrate the existing damp-proof, you've just made a far better one - with insulation value too.

 

[Ttt1601]

Did think about that, but if the damp gets behind the wedi would it not trap it and make it travel to the room next door? Or since it's lime and horse hair would it breath it's slef back out?

 

[One Day]

Did think about that, but if the damp gets behind the wedi would it not trap it and make it travel to the room next door? Or since it's lime and horse hair would it breath it's slef back out?

Dunno! You could go in circles worrying about damp.
I would simply offer a guarantee that the tiled room would now be damp-free. Where it goes from there is their problem...
They could take it, or leave it...

 

[Ttt1601]

Very true mate, he is understanding about the issues of this nature it is a 17th century cottage after all. Was hoping to have something else to take to the table if possible but I will run through options with him and see tomorrow. Cheers gents

 

[White Room]

im hoping someone has a idea i haven't thought of for this one, tomorrow i night i have to go and price up a bathroom in an old cottage, i did the floor earlier this year, ended up having to put down an epoxy based dpm, with all relevant parties contacted, tec depts, a damp specialist etc etc. now the customer wants the ground floor bathroom fully tiled, the walls are flint lime and horse hair, im pretty sure it had that corrugated bitumen wall dpm installed in the 50s/60s then hardwall and skim over that. but not all areas have this as there is still a couple of little damp spots showing through on 1 external wall. my big question is, it is small room already i really cant afford the space to build a stud framework inside of the existing walls, if i batton it off the walls and fix to that i will penetrate any existing damp measures that are in place and i really wouldnt trust directly fixing to the existing walls.

so you bunch of genisus's any ideas???

That plaster didn't exist in the 50s/60s

 

[LM]

Can you instal vents to counter any humidity behind a tile backer?

 

[Ttt1601]

Its been patched, a few times, the bottom by the door is that dpm stuff with s & c render over but most other areas that are now blown are hard wall and skim so I was assuming the render had blown and it had Ben patched at a later date with the gypsum

 

[Ttt1601]

Can you instal vents to counter any humidity behind a tile backer?

To the outside? They are 2 foot think flint walls, no hope of that without making a lots of mess on the outside

 

[LM]

Pilot hole from the inside out, with tenderness, then a wet core drill from the outside in? Or bring a company in to do it. It is possible!

 

[White Room]

To the outside? They are 2 foot think flint walls, no hope of that without making a lots of mess on the outside

With old walls like that they would flint inside and outside then all broken pieces thrown in between the the walls.

 

[Ttt1601]

Problem with core drilling in a flint wall is, you hit a flint it comes out whole and takes everything out with it. I'm in Hampshire, theres a reason we call the stuff Hampshire nugget's, it's everywhere and is a rubbish to work with lol. Cheers for the thought thou will run it past him, but tour right someone else will be coming out to drill the hole, then they can do the making good lol

 

[Ttt1601]

Right, went in to see this one and have a chat, he has decided he only wants half hieght round the room, so was thinking, d n d backer board to height then rile, no real issue? Only thing I couldn't think of was best way to finish the top? Would be too deep for a trim with the addition of the board, but not deep enough for a capping tile, he doesn't want a chamfered tile cut on top mitred at 45 to finish flat with top of tile and wall