Tile leveller loose after the wedge being pushed all in on 8mm tile

Hi, I’m doing something wrong here? I bought these from eBay for one job . After I dry tested one on my 8mm tiles, it is loose even tho I have pushed the wedge all the way in? Any ideas? Seller said they are for 7-12mm tiles. I have since bought another system listed for 3-12mm tiles. Hopefully that works.

548BE680-C293-43F9-8043-375F5208E9D2.jpeg 9974098B-BD5C-468B-ABFD-D14D7D5D10D3.jpeg
 
Another cheap Chinese stuff on eBay :innocent: ... see attached.

I will most likely cancel this order as the seller is not responding and won’t be delivered by the end of this week.

57A94F69-4BAE-4A92-9B53-CCB9BEF82FF0.png 54DA98BC-B256-4FBC-8EC9-A3C784869430.png
 
They are pretty good ones.
 
Seems like it. But I just found the spacers are only 1mm thick whereas I’ll be having 2mm spacing between wall tiles and 3mm between floor tiles, but I guess using them in combination with 2mm spacers should be no problem. Wouldn’t the 1mm snap often?
 
I find it better using the 1mm ones with normal spacers as required as the 1mm ones break easier when removing with less chance of chipping the tiles.
 
I guess I’m good then. Thanks for your advice. I have 50no of the attached. I tried them, they work well for levelling, but once you unbolt them, you have to hold the handle tight otherwise the t part snpases off easily, also it shifts the tile if not hold tight again . Hence I think the wedges are the best option, the correct one for my tiles atleast.

B54933E7-73BD-4EE0-A954-7B3BC42AEFD2.png
 
I don't recommend the use of these.
A major flaw is that if you are lifting a tile to meet another, a void will be created where there is insufficient adhesive underneath the tile, causing a weakness. This type of device will cause the most vulnerable part of a tile to be prone to damage as it lifts the edges and corners.
They also rely on plastic parts to remain in the adhesive, which don't have the same properties as a continuous adhesive bed. If a tile failure was to occur, both of these facts would allow a tile adhesive manufacturer to dismiss any claim against them.
 
I don't recommend the use of these.
A major flaw is that if you are lifting a tile to meet another, a void will be created where there is insufficient adhesive underneath the tile, causing a weakness. This type of device will cause the most vulnerable part of a tile to be prone to damage as it lifts the edges and corners.
They also rely on plastic parts to remain in the adhesive, which don't have the same properties as a continuous adhesive bed. If a tile failure was to occur, both of these facts would allow a tile adhesive manufacturer to dismiss any claim against them.
You do not recommend the use of a tile levelling system or just the ones mentioned above?
 
All systems, as they take away the need for extra adhesive to be used in voids, and allow weaknesses to be created, thus increasing the chances of tile failure.

The old and safe method is to:

1) Make sure the surface to be tiled is sufficiently flat (+/- 4mm over 2 metres)
2) Make good the surface if out of these tolerances with levelling compound on a floor or plastering/re-boarding walls.
3) If bedding up with adhesive is necessary on a floor like yours, it is best to lay the tiles, and use extra adhesive to eliminate lips, up to the tile adhesive limits on depth.

Simply lifting a tile off the surface using these systems, does not apply extra adhesive underneath the tile, and will therefore create a void where the tile is not bonded to the surface. This will create a weak spot in the tile, which will be prone to damage.
 
All systems, as they take away the need for extra adhesive to be used in voids, and allow weaknesses to be created, thus increasing the chances of tile failure.

The old and safe method is to:

1) Make sure the surface to be tiled is sufficiently flat (+/- 4mm over 2 metres)
2) Make good the surface if out of these tolerances with levelling compound on a floor or plastering/re-boarding walls.
3) If bedding up with adhesive is necessary on a floor like yours, it is best to lay the tiles, and use extra adhesive to eliminate lips, up to the tile adhesive limits on depth.

Simply lifting a tile off the surface using these systems, does not apply extra adhesive underneath the tile, and will therefore create a void where the tile is not bonded to the surface. This will create a weak spot in the tile, which will be prone to damage.
Interesting theory in the use of tile levelling systems and how you think they work. There are a lot of VERY experienced tilers on here who use them, I myself use them if required perhaps to deal with plank tiles say 1200x200mm bananas but can assure you there are no voids under tile. Perhaps you might need to look at your fixing method?
 
Interesting theory in the use of tile levelling systems and how you think they work. There are a lot of VERY experienced tilers on here who use them, I myself use them if required perhaps to deal with plank tiles say 1200x200mm bananas but can assure you there are no voids under tile. Perhaps you might need to look at your fixing method?
I just think the old methods are best, that's all. I still trust a spirit level bubble over a laser. I would back fill a banana tile before laying also.
 
I just think the old methods are best, that's all. I still trust a spirit level bubble over a laser. I would back fill a banana tile before laying also.
That’s the thing tho, you need to change your methods to suit today’s materials and tile size. A levelling system will hold the high middle point of a banana tile down till adhesive goes off, back buttering tiles is the norm now aswell as single direction floor serration. Just think shouldn’t advise not using them if you have no proper experience with them.
 
I'm sorry, but I don't agree. This is what a forum is for though eh?
I think that "holding down" the middle point of a tile will create stress, and also increase the likelihood of tile fracture if it is not supported properly. I have dealt with tiles of the size you mention, and am aware of the added problems with large format tiles, as I've been tiling for over 12 years. I just think that there is no need for these systems if the background is prepared properly in the first place. If it isn't, then sort it out before tiling. That's a requirement.
 
Even a lot of the tile manufacturers recommend on the packaging the use of clips.

Let’s not start the clips or cowboys BS again 😉
 
You obviously don’t look at the packaging then.

So if a person has being doing the same job for 30 years, is he not able to change with the times to all the new technology about.

You can’t say it’s wrong unless you’ve tried it. Look at some of the large format bods, they have to use them.

Each to their own. You don’t like them, that fine, crack on
 
Trust me, I always read the packaging, as it gives me a laugh. The translations are hilarious! I've never come across packaging that insists on the use of plastic levelling pegs.
"Crack on".
You will that.
 
Trust me, I always read the packaging, as it gives me a laugh. The translations are hilarious! I've never come across packaging that insists on the use of plastic levelling pegs.
"Crack on".
You will that.
You seem to come across as arrogant in your posts, trust me there is a lot on here who have probably forgotten more than you know! Good luck enjoy the forum :thumbsup:
 
I'm sorry to hear that callatiler.com., but don't forget that you have said that I need more experience. I would could consider that as incredibly arrogant on your behalf. I have not insulted your capabilities as you have mine.
I don't understand why, as I believe I've only given good advise on tiling. Am I upsetting the tile-clip users tilers? I won't mention clips again if so, it was merely my opinion on this system.
 
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Clips are fine Huddersfield , there’s nothing wrong with them.
And they ‘push the tile not lift it .the bits of plastic which are left won’t cause a problem, unless you have some scientific mumbo jumbo to say otherwise 🙂 .
They are most defo a must on large tiles, say above 600x600 and plank tiles, like someone has said , a lot of planks are bent, due to either just being cheap ‘s hit , or being stacked on a uneven surface in a long trip .
Bloody Yorkshireman coming here, nicking our jobs 😉
 
Seems like it. But I just found the spacers are only 1mm thick whereas I’ll be having 2mm spacing between wall tiles and 3mm between floor tiles, but I guess using them in combination with 2mm spacers should be no problem. Wouldn’t the 1mm snap often?
Then put 2mm and 3mm spacers in
 
A lot of plank tiles have a bow/bent in them due to the manufacturing process and a lot of manufacturers state that levelling clips and have to be laid a certain bond to help eliminate any lips
 
I personally believe that if you chose to use clips or not that's the choice of the fixer, I have already say I have never used them on another thread, but I have seen them used & thanks but no thanks I'll stick to spreading,back buttering the tile if needed then level or straight edge as I'm fixing. This was how I was shown many long summers ago & it works for me,might not work for everybody but everybody is different.Oh & has for the how many years a person has been be it 1 yr or 101 years your never to old to learn new tricks
 

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Tile leveller loose after the wedge being pushed all in on 8mm tile
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