Tile leveller loose after the wedge being pushed all in on 8mm tile - Tile Advice

[Kcoh]

Hi, I’m doing something wrong here? I bought these from eBay for one job . After I dry tested one on my 8mm tiles, it is loose even tho I have pushed the wedge all the way in? Any ideas? Seller said they are for 7-12mm tiles. I have since bought another system listed for 3-12mm tiles. Hopefully that works.

 

[Bill]

those clips above are rubbish.

 

[Kcoh]

Thanks for confirming this.

 

[GoneGuy]

What was the other brand of clips you ordered

 

[Kcoh]

Another cheap Chinese stuff on eBay ... see attached.

I will most likely cancel this order as the seller is not responding and won’t be delivered by the end of this week.

 

[Boggs]

They are pretty good ones.

 

[Kcoh]

Seems like it. But I just found the spacers are only 1mm thick whereas I’ll be having 2mm spacing between wall tiles and 3mm between floor tiles, but I guess using them in combination with 2mm spacers should be no problem. Wouldn’t the 1mm snap often?

 

[Boggs]

I find it better using the 1mm ones with normal spacers as required as the 1mm ones break easier when removing with less chance of chipping the tiles.

 

[Kcoh]

I guess I’m good then. Thanks for your advice. I have 50no of the attached. I tried them, they work well for levelling, but once you unbolt them, you have to hold the handle tight otherwise the t part snpases off easily, also it shifts the tile if not hold tight again . Hence I think the wedges are the best option, the correct one for my tiles atleast.

 

[acaciaguy]

Contact protiler. They will sort you

 

[Huddersfield Tiling]

I don't recommend the use of these.
A major flaw is that if you are lifting a tile to meet another, a void will be created where there is insufficient adhesive underneath the tile, causing a weakness. This type of device will cause the most vulnerable part of a tile to be prone to damage as it lifts the edges and corners.
They also rely on plastic parts to remain in the adhesive, which don't have the same properties as a continuous adhesive bed. If a tile failure was to occur, both of these facts would allow a tile adhesive manufacturer to dismiss any claim against them.

 

[Blunt Tool]

I don't recommend the use of these.
A major flaw is that if you are lifting a tile to meet another, a void will be created where there is insufficient adhesive underneath the tile, causing a weakness. This type of device will cause the most vulnerable part of a tile to be prone to damage as it lifts the edges and corners.
They also rely on plastic parts to remain in the adhesive, which don't have the same properties as a continuous adhesive bed. If a tile failure was to occur, both of these facts would allow a tile adhesive manufacturer to dismiss any claim against them.

You do not recommend the use of a tile levelling system or just the ones mentioned above?

 

[Huddersfield Tiling]

All systems, as they take away the need for extra adhesive to be used in voids, and allow weaknesses to be created, thus increasing the chances of tile failure.

The old and safe method is to:

1) Make sure the surface to be tiled is sufficiently flat (+/- 4mm over 2 metres)
2) Make good the surface if out of these tolerances with levelling compound on a floor or plastering/re-boarding walls.
3) If bedding up with adhesive is necessary on a floor like yours, it is best to lay the tiles, and use extra adhesive to eliminate lips, up to the tile adhesive limits on depth.

Simply lifting a tile off the surface using these systems, does not apply extra adhesive underneath the tile, and will therefore create a void where the tile is not bonded to the surface. This will create a weak spot in the tile, which will be prone to damage.

 

[Blunt Tool]

All systems, as they take away the need for extra adhesive to be used in voids, and allow weaknesses to be created, thus increasing the chances of tile failure.

The old and safe method is to:

1) Make sure the surface to be tiled is sufficiently flat (+/- 4mm over 2 metres)
2) Make good the surface if out of these tolerances with levelling compound on a floor or plastering/re-boarding walls.
3) If bedding up with adhesive is necessary on a floor like yours, it is best to lay the tiles, and use extra adhesive to eliminate lips, up to the tile adhesive limits on depth.

Simply lifting a tile off the surface using these systems, does not apply extra adhesive underneath the tile, and will therefore create a void where the tile is not bonded to the surface. This will create a weak spot in the tile, which will be prone to damage.

Interesting theory in the use of tile levelling systems and how you think they work. There are a lot of VERY experienced tilers on here who use them, I myself use them if required perhaps to deal with plank tiles say 1200x200mm bananas but can assure you there are no voids under tile. Perhaps you might need to look at your fixing method?

 

[Huddersfield Tiling]

Interesting theory in the use of tile levelling systems and how you think they work. There are a lot of VERY experienced tilers on here who use them, I myself use them if required perhaps to deal with plank tiles say 1200x200mm bananas but can assure you there are no voids under tile. Perhaps you might need to look at your fixing method?

I just think the old methods are best, that's all. I still trust a spirit level bubble over a laser. I would back fill a banana tile before laying also.