Retro fit ufh & Hydrogen gas causes floor failure.

The procedure was dictated by the heating plant company.
(German).
A 6 mm panel was used.
For thickness problems, I think it's ok even 10mm.
Epoxy adhesive, being only 6 square meters,
Kerakoll said that h40 no limits was ok,
But, to exaggerate, he said to use h40 extreme (epoxy adhesive)
 
the only one I've done I stuck down ditra with mapei two part then tiled.

why would people us this system when there is so many others out there which should be less problematic to tile onto.
 
I found the photos,
that panel is that?
I thought it was cement, sorry.
I laid the plumber.
Was the first time for me.
And I hope the last.

IMG_20170307_072518.jpg IMG_20170307_072535.jpg IMG_20170213_150826.jpg
 
I need to know you !!
I have never seen them before.
Do not you recognize them?
you are the tilers of the panels !!
I do not use panels
No, I do not recognise them, I have seen board with similar colour.
I do not remember where 🙁

Anyone else recognise the motled green boards in the photo above?
 
So using an anhydride screed over aluminium would result in the same reaction Alan yeah?

So would that translate in to any anhydride suitable products like Anhyfix adhesive, or Anhylevel have the same reaction? Just trying to clarify.




I know you know you're correct, but we can definitely confirm that, through our research we found that a lot of priming methods were ineffective.

Any further info would be helpful Alan, thanks.

Any alkali in contact with the un oxidised aluminium foil on insulation will have the same reaction. That goes for gypsum levellers, screeds and tile adhesives as well as those based on cement including sand cement sreeds. With gypsum the reaction is somewhat slower as tge evolution if hydroxyl ions is slower. Typically though it will still happen within a few hours of application. With gypsum screeds it results in what look very much like mole hills on the screed surface. I gave been able to limit it in the past by applying several thick coats of PVA. Yes I said PVA... lol. I have never found a suitably practical priming technique that was guaranteed to overcome it though. Interestingly if the foil has been around gircacejile and has oxidised the reaction us much less pronounced. I did try using a vinegar solution to promote oxidation once but the whole house stank for weeks after.

Epoxy might work but it would be an expensive solution.

The reaction is partly the reason why all floating screeds should be placed on a polythene slip membrane.
 
Any alkali in contact with the un oxidised aluminium foil on insulation will have the same reaction. That goes for gypsum levellers, screeds and tile adhesives as well as those based on cement including sand cement sreeds. With gypsum the reaction is somewhat slower as tge evolution if hydroxyl ions is slower. Typically though it will still happen within a few hours of application. With gypsum screeds it results in what look very much like mole hills on the screed surface. I gave been able to limit it in the past by applying several thick coats of PVA. Yes I said PVA... lol. I have never found a suitably practical priming technique that was guaranteed to overcome it though. Interestingly if the foil has been around gircacejile and has oxidised the reaction us much less pronounced. I did try using a vinegar solution to promote oxidation once but the whole house stank for weeks after.

Epoxy might work but it would be an expensive solution.

The reaction is partly the reason why all floating screeds should be placed on a polythene slip membrane.
Is that why we put slip coats on celotex
 
The calcium hydroxide aluminium reaction is fairly basic chemistry. The same thing happens when you put calcium sulphate direct to aluminium. Priming has generally proven to be ineffective in preventing the reaction so the best thing js to avoid it altogether by either not using aluminium or putting a slip membrane down first.
I hope you ran this past Spacey first Alan before posting 😉
 
Thank you Alan.



Are you able to guess as to why Mapei state that they're eco prime and grip works as a primer Alan?
there's very little that they claim that can't do.
use it to prime resin backed stone, painted epoxy floors, gypsum
its a wonder product
 
Typical companies releasing products onto market without proper research or testing just to make money and leaving end user to clear up the mess .
???? Who done that then
 
In the case of using the Isolastic liquid, does it bind the alkali element of the Portland Alan, how does it work?
Mapei also state that latex plus is a no no,
reading tech sheets there's little or no difference in the two products, but I'm sure there must be something.
Would just like to understand how this can be prevented.
 
You're all in the arms here there should be nobody in here related to an adhesive firm. Or any other firm that makes money out of the tilers for that matter.
 

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