Dot And Dabbing At Its Best.
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StevieBoy
How can you tell which ones are the dots, and which are the dabs?
Looks like they started to spread the wall in the second picture, then got fed up with doing that lol.
Still, at least as you say the tiles came off easily. 😀
Looks like they started to spread the wall in the second picture, then got fed up with doing that lol.
Still, at least as you say the tiles came off easily. 😀
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Old Mod
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mattle40
I love those jobs lol, u get an easy first day and get to show off and educate the customer a little so u look even better. Win win
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White Room
Atleast the dots are still attached....🙄
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SJPurdy
They started correctly bottom left (pic 2) but then found they needed to add more addy on top of the ribs of addy to keep the tiled surface flat, so then they gave up with the notched trowel. Look at the thickness of the dabs on the wall - if the front of the tiling was flat then the wall definitely isn't. Many, many years ago i'd have done the same (but with more dobs so that they all touched each other when compressed). More recently if the wall was so far out it would be coated with the notched trowel and then more addy would have had to be added to the already back buttered tile to keep the tiled surface flat over the hollows in the wall (I know against BS5385), either that or i'd loose a day (unpaid again) and do the plasterers job for them!
Were the tiles fixed onto the notched trowel bed more difficult to remove than those dot and dabbed? often I find those dot and dabbed are harder to remove.
Crumbs I've just relooked at the pics - one wall is so bad the tiler had to fix tiles in the hollow and then tile over them. I'd definitely would have had to flatten out that one!!! Hope that's allowed for in the retiling price.
Were the tiles fixed onto the notched trowel bed more difficult to remove than those dot and dabbed? often I find those dot and dabbed are harder to remove.
Crumbs I've just relooked at the pics - one wall is so bad the tiler had to fix tiles in the hollow and then tile over them. I'd definitely would have had to flatten out that one!!! Hope that's allowed for in the retiling price.
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StevieBoy
I have had literally loads and loads of jobs where I have had to do that over the years - even when the walls have been re-skimmed.
If say on a window wall that the customer wants metal trim around the reveals, you obviously have to keep that wall flat and vertical as the trim won't bend much.
Good way of getting rid of all the off cuts tho.
That's a classic !!!!!
The best thing was that if any bedding out was to be done. It would have been the bottom of the wall!
They made a wall that was out of level, even more out of level. Probably started off out of plumb, then carried on from there.😀
Might put this refurb into Octobers jotm, if there is one.
They made a wall that was out of level, even more out of level. Probably started off out of plumb, then carried on from there.😀
Might put this refurb into Octobers jotm, if there is one.
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Old Mod
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swanman
still it stayed on
thats what counts
thats what counts
sorry for adding my six pence late
looking at the pictures , the tiles seem to be of a brown/biscuit and in my experience, these tiles are a nightmare to fix, fix a tile on and let it stay for a minute, pull it off and adhesive has stuck to the tile.
put it back on let it stay on for 15 minutes and pull it off again and the tile comes off clean, no adhesive on it at all!!
I've taken to priming the back of these types of tiles, also spreading adhesive on both wall and tile.
while dot and dabbing is professionally ok. to do and if the there's a problem you'll never win a battle saying that the tiles were properly stuck.
looking at the pictures , the tiles seem to be of a brown/biscuit and in my experience, these tiles are a nightmare to fix, fix a tile on and let it stay for a minute, pull it off and adhesive has stuck to the tile.
put it back on let it stay on for 15 minutes and pull it off again and the tile comes off clean, no adhesive on it at all!!
I've taken to priming the back of these types of tiles, also spreading adhesive on both wall and tile.
while dot and dabbing is professionally ok. to do and if the there's a problem you'll never win a battle saying that the tiles were properly stuck.
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On one
So if I'm reading right D&D tiles in a wet area,large format porcelain tiles and on floor tiles is professionally ok?
sorry i was just generalizing that dot and dab was a method, it shouldn't be used in wet areas.
having said that, in theory if done properly, on surfaces that don't move, settle. so water can't get in behind tiles then there should be not reason why dot and dab couldn't work
having said that, in theory if done properly, on surfaces that don't move, settle. so water can't get in behind tiles then there should be not reason why dot and dab couldn't work
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One Day
Oooh! Controversial!
BS5385 ("the" standard) states that it's not a suitable fixing method.
Yet go back 40+ years and it was. PJ tiler - who many here know - he fixed tiles to the CIS building in Manchester using d&d and they're still up there. Think it was the late 60's.
IF - (big IF) you don't exceed the depth at which a cement adhesive will weaken, and IF you get good enough coverage - then all reasonable tilers on here would say, OK it'll work.
The question remains: if your walls and floors are so bad you need to d&d then you're doing it wrong before you even begin! I would always sort out before tiling so that I can spread, comb and stick. Easy, fast (SAFE) and profitable.
We all bed up and build out a bit now and again but let's keep it sensible eh?! 😉
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Spud
I know a builder who took a tiler to court for dotting and dabbing tiles at a premiership footballers house , the tiles were 1.2 x1.2 builder got an expert in from the T.T.A in to act as an expert witness , the court was told by the expert that dotting and dabbing tiles wouldn't solely cause a failure and the builder lost the case
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Italy
I still think that I am wrong I work 🙁
sorry for hijacking this thread. can i ask for opinions out there on laying slate, years ago i was laying 1-2 kitchen floors a week in slate , and with variations of 1/2 inch of thickness i D&D all of these floors , and never had a single callback using this method, if i'd solid filled those floors i would have only got about 1.5 m2 to 20kg bag of adhesive over here in N.Ireland people wouldn't have paid the extra
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dave l and l
maybe self level room.or run it slightly of the level.
there must be plenty big voids under the floor tiles, especially slate as it can be quite soft
there must be plenty big voids under the floor tiles, especially slate as it can be quite soft
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Flintstone
In the real world, and when working on old houses and refurb bathrooms for builders etc, you get bad walls and your gonna need to build them out in places which means adding some dabs! I always use the notch trowel on the wall and butter the back of the tile if dabs are neeeed, add them to the tile. You can't do no more. But there is a limit ofcourse
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Flintstone
Same on floors and walls
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WetSaw
Loads of the apartments thrown up over here just have one big blob of mortar and their butted up, no grout gap. Loads of failures now!
just to clarify the floors were usually level, and the slate tiles were usually 300x300 and with up to 1/2 difference in thickness i didn't sort through the tiles, laying all thick tiles together same with thin tiles, also D&D was each corner and one in the centre so not too big a gap between dabs, also the thin tiles were bedded up so the overall top surface was flat, no trips, with at around 15mm joints, the Chinese didn't always cut their tiles the same size or square
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EdinTiler
Hi Dave. Trouble is that d&d is like using a hosepipe in the wind, it's always going to come back at you at some point. Especially with ufh. I screed over the top of ufh as a matter of coarse. As for the tiles, if you're using an adhesive that's appropriate and can be bedded up with manufacturers recommendations then he should have had no need to d&d. I use an adhesive that lets me bed up to 20mm on floors and I wouldn't have thought that there'd be that much of a discrepancy between the tiles.
Also, if the ufh has been turned on too soon after insulation then this can cause similar problems. Again, adhesive manufacturers recommendations should have been read prior to installation. All sortable though so that's good.
EdinTiler.
Cheers
Also, if the ufh has been turned on too soon after insulation then this can cause similar problems. Again, adhesive manufacturers recommendations should have been read prior to installation. All sortable though so that's good.
EdinTiler.
Cheers
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Italy
Who can explain to me the meaning of D & D?
thanks
thanks
4 or 5 blobs of adhesive on the back of a tile then fix in place, known as dot and dab or d & d
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Qwerty
@david mccullough .....I've laid a lot of uncalibrated stone floors and graded each & every tile. Whole floor fixed with solid bed of adhesive no problem. Out of interest why do you choose not to grade them prior to laying?
There are similar tiling threads here
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