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No. But I do have a couple of grinders.

I was thinking that maybe the plasplugs master tiler might be alright for the odd cut here and there but I was concerned that it would take to long to cut every tile with a wet saw. The dry cutter seems a much faster option....as long as I can get the tile to break where it should without chipping.


yes use dry cutter for straight cuts

but you need a wet cutter or a grinder with a tile cutting blade in it for angled cuts
 
i think you should get a wet saw pj,you may need to upgrade the blade also as a lot of the saws come with basic blades
Could you recommend a cheap(ish) wet saw and suitable replacement blade. As I mentioned earlier, the plasplugs seems a popular choice.
 
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grinder all the way. Bosh makes good blades but make sure to go for the solid disc instead of the the ones that have splits in them.
 
Plasplugs is great if you can get one. tradetiler sell the Vitrex version. Marcrist wheels are a good replacement too.
 
Nope. But it's been bought and is on site. The Project Manager says the chipboard / hardybacker combo is the approach they usually use for their jobs.


long winded expensive way to go in my humble opinion, better off with 18 - 25mm wpb, and tile to this, with suitable preparation.
 
Water proof Ply or should i say Weather and boil proof....why you would boil ply though, I dunno 😉
 
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Personally, i would always use hardi now.. whether onto the chipboard or the ply.. much more stable to tile too..
 
Interesting. I thought there was a move away from ply hence hardybacker, no more ply, etc

Ahh now we enter differing methods. i always overboard with backerboards.

I would do away with the Chipboard and us ply and overlay with backerboard if it were my house. Far more stable.
 
Ahh now we enter differing methods. i always overboard with backerboards.

I would do away with the Chipboard and us ply and overlay with backerboard if it were my house. Far more stable.
Hmm. Unfortunately, your good advice has come too late. Perhaps I should have joined this forum earlier? My bad.
 
Can it handle a 600x400mm tile? I need something with a nice, large, supportive top ( if it's anything like a table saw).

If your doing right angle cuts, do a wet cut into the right angle then dry cut, that where a good dry cutter comes into there own.
 
It's been a long day so I need to put my head down! I'm not used to physical work.

Thanks very much everyone for your help and advice and will be back on tomorrow to let you know what I've bought.
 
Don't forget PJ to post pics of the work as you go so the guys can give advice, just think you nearly PVA'd the walls so it was a good thing you came on here.

PVA is for plasterers and has no place in the tiling world.
 
I was intending to buy a cutter. Looks like the Rubi TX-700-N is the one to go for? How does the TX-700 (no N) differ to the TX-700-N? Is the N worth the extra?

I'm gonna have to buy the cutter tomorrow at the lastest, along with the (10mm) notched trowel, grout trowel, knee pads, etc, etc, etc.
imo the "N" isn't worth the extra, it just has a longer guide rail that can get in the way:thumbsup:
 
On Trade Tiler the TX-700 is actually more than the TX-700-N. Should I still go for the standard?
If you have room to set it up, I don't see why not. I think (but I'll have to check) that TT may have the old version "N" model and the new version standard model:thumbsup:
 

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