A
Alan.P
You say the floor 'will be' is the chip board down yet ?
Are they competitively priced?Give Tradetiler.com Home a call and David will sort you out. order tomorrow and it will be with you the day after.
No. But I do have a couple of grinders.
I was thinking that maybe the plasplugs master tiler might be alright for the odd cut here and there but I was concerned that it would take to long to cut every tile with a wet saw. The dry cutter seems a much faster option....as long as I can get the tile to break where it should without chipping.
OK. Thanks. Am I better off with a cheap (ish) saw or just get a blade for the grinder?yes use dry cutter for straight cuts
but you need a wet cutter or a grinder with a tile cutting blade in it for angled cuts
OK. Thanks. Am I better off with a cheap (ish) saw or just get a blade for the grinder?
Nope. But it's been bought and is on site. The Project Manager says the chipboard / hardybacker combo is the approach they usually use for their jobs.You say the floor 'will be' is the chip board down yet ?
Are they competitively priced?
Could you recommend a cheap(ish) wet saw and suitable replacement blade. As I mentioned earlier, the plasplugs seems a popular choice.i think you should get a wet saw pj,you may need to upgrade the blade also as a lot of the saws come with basic blades
OK. I'll give them a whirl.Very and he does a price promise thingy. Tradetiler should be a patron saint to all tilers...highly respected for his services.
Nope. But it's been bought and is on site. The Project Manager says the chipboard / hardybacker combo is the approach they usually use for their jobs.
wpb? .long winded expensive way to go in my humble opinion, better off with 18 - 25mm wpb, and tile to this, with suitable preparation.
Interesting. I thought there was a move away from ply hence hardybacker, no more ply, etcWater proof Ply
Water proof Ply or should i say Weather and boil proof....why you would boil ply though, I dunno 😉
Can it handle a 600x400mm tile? I need something with a nice, large, supportive top ( if it's anything like a table saw).Buy a wickes cutter and change the blade, cheap and cheerful
Interesting. I thought there was a move away from ply hence hardybacker, no more ply, etc
Hmm. Unfortunately, your good advice has come too late. Perhaps I should have joined this forum earlier? My bad.Ahh now we enter differing methods. i always overboard with backerboards.
I would do away with the Chipboard and us ply and overlay with backerboard if it were my house. Far more stable.
Can it handle a 600x400mm tile? I need something with a nice, large, supportive top ( if it's anything like a table saw).
imo the "N" isn't worth the extra, it just has a longer guide rail that can get in the wayI was intending to buy a cutter. Looks like the Rubi TX-700-N is the one to go for? How does the TX-700 (no N) differ to the TX-700-N? Is the N worth the extra?
I'm gonna have to buy the cutter tomorrow at the lastest, along with the (10mm) notched trowel, grout trowel, knee pads, etc, etc, etc.
On Trade Tiler the TX-700 is actually more than the TX-700-N. Should I still go for the standard?imo the "N" isn't worth the extra, it just has a longer guide rail that can get in the way![]()
If you have room to set it up, I don't see why not. I think (but I'll have to check) that TT may have the old version "N" model and the new version standard modelOn Trade Tiler the TX-700 is actually more than the TX-700-N. Should I still go for the standard?