AKW TUFF former and liquid tanking ????

It seems that ardex liquid tanking is a very popular choice on this forum and I am hoping to use some in my wetroom, however does anyone know if it's okay to use on a plastic shower former? The only thing I can find online is people recommending I lightly sand the surface of the former and AKW only seem to sell the sheet membrane. Has anyone got any experience fitting these? I want to avoid using sheet style membrane as I would like to do the walls as well with what ever I purchase to tank the floor. The surrounding walls are all solid but for piece of mind it would be nice to tank it Many thanks
 
It’s a new thread. I very nearly copied and pasted my reply to this one but decided against it.
 
Sorry I realised there's a more appropriate sub forum for this question, rather than being in the tiling section.

I have since found out that the Mapei shower taking kit is an approved product by AKW, which surely is very similar to the ardex, however when contacting ardex they felt they couldn't say for sure if it would work, and instead directed me to a different product of there's "ARDEX XPU60"

Might be best just going for the Mapei though
 
What about Tilemaster?

Might be worth giving them a call. The customer service is excellent and for me, I much prefer it to the Mapei.
 
I would contact mapei to see what they have to say don't just rely on what you are hearing from akw
 
I've heard back from mapei and AKW, both confirming that the mapei shower liquid memrane is safe to be used with the AKW shower former :thumbsup:. Shame it's so expensive, I'm still waiting to hear back from tilemaster Waluigi. Did you not have a good experience with mapei? What did you prefer about tilemaster.

I'm guessing all these liquid memranes are safe to be put over a painted wall, or should a strip it back to plaster?

Cheers
 
I used Mapei for a number of years but moved over to Tilemaster last year as it’s a better system IMO.

Yes the paint has to be completely removed before applying the tanking membrane.

Just out of interest, what size tiles are you hanging off the plastered wall? Are they ceramic/porcelain?
 
To be honest I haven't even started looking at tiles yet, I was going to prep and then get tiles when I reach that stage.

So my walls I think are breeze block on all three sides luckily, think they've been like screed rendered then plastered over the top, so I should strip all paint off, then can I make any repairs to the walls using tile adhesive?

I'm going for a ceiling mounted shower head as the surrounding walls are all solid, First time for that also!
 
Just an update! I've finally got the ply floor down and former in, however it looks like I've only got like a 2mm height difference between the former and the plywood ( former 2mm higher)

I've still yet to put down the 6mm hardiebacker. Originally the advise was that 18mm ply with 6mm hardie will leave the former 2mm lower and that would be okay.

I'm thinking the adhesive I stick the hardie down with will take up 2mm so my floors going to probably be 6mm higher than the former.

Should I just get some 6mm ply and put this under the former, or perhaps use some off cuts from the hardie backer and put that between the joists and the former?
 
From memory the AKW doesn’t need fully supporting underneath (ply between joists) so yes you could pack the joists up with something to get the desired height of the wet Dec. The Dec is screwed down anyway.
 
Absolutely fine to do the above. Just ensure the length of the joists that the former is to sit on is covered with the material used to ensure uniformity
 
Okay, shame to buy more plywood but I suspect putting lengths of 6mm hardiebacker under the former would potentially be a bad idea?

Waluigi, you were previously asking me about what tiles I want to use. My wife has found some at wickes she likes. She saw the ones in the
picture below in a show room, and wants to use the mosaic tiles just on the shower former.

It got me thinking though, it's it easier to use mosaic tiles because they are small and wont need cutting and should take the shape of the former with ease, or are they a pain to get them all laying at the right angle. I'm all for making my life easier when tiling this former.

Screenshot_20190216-073338_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
I would think 6mm Hardie would be fine. Keep in mind that Hardiebacker doesn’t like to be screwed near to the edge as it just breaks off. A pilot hol through the board and even a countersink might be necessary.

Mosaic wise- good idea for a wet room former as the tiles naturally follow the slope plus mosaics add a certain amount of non slip to the floor area.
 
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My advice regarding tiles would be to avoid Wickes as there tiles are largely terribly quality. And mosaics, yes they follow the curves but there's a lot of grout there to go bad, unless you use epoxy grout.
 
So I have bought my hardiebacker board. I'm going to put it up on Thursday. Quick question, am I right in thinking I just need to stick the 6mm stuff to the ply wood floor with tile adhesive, no screws?

And do you think using hardiebacker 12mm on these stud walls is a good idea? I was going to sceew them to the stud timber with "gold" branded screws.

Just hope the boards don't warp being stood up like this before I get around to doing it on thursday

20190226_185508.jpg 20190226_185533.jpg
 
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Use screws only 20mm long, saves going through pipes etc under the floor boards.
Gold screws if memory serve me right.
 
Just sticking my oar in one one point. In my humble opinion ALWAYS underboard EVERY floor FORMER. Even when the manufacturers say that their product doesn't need it. It does! Think about it. Even with flexible adhesive and grout, tiles and grout do not like ANY movement. Even the slightest movement could result in a hairline crack in the grout (and in some cases the tiles). This will result in water ingress under the tiles. Not a problem as far as leaks are concerned if you have tanked properly. But you will still have water under the tiles and an unhappy client. Like all building work. Get the foundations correct and you are half way there.
 
Very good point there. Impey /AKW and other "joist-sitting" tray manufacturers are historically supplying the safety vinyl installers for disabled wetrooms.
 
Quite simply if you are using AKW former then use their tanking. This way if you ever have a problem they must honour any guarantee. If you mix and match products it is a get out of jail card for any manufacturer. The tanking manufacturer can blame AKW and vice versa.
 

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AKW TUFF former and liquid tanking ????
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