Trim advice for 7mm beveled metro tiles? - TilersForums.com

[europa]

My contractor is pretty useless and can't advise me. Tile shops tell me different things. So i'm hoping you guys can help!

I'm going to tile a kitchen splashback wall and also the return wall which requires going into and around a window reveal. I've ordered bevelled metro tiles that are 7mm at their thickest point. Looks like i could use 8 or 10mm size trims. Which size would be best allowing for the adhesive? And which profile: straight or round? Seems straight is most common, but wouldn't round be better with beveled edges?

Also, i have read that it's best to use 1/4 and 3/4 cuts so only cut (vertical) edges go in the trim. But what do you then do when you reach an internal corner? Also, what about horizontal edges, i.e. the top row of the tiles? How would you suggest using trim there? Cut or leave bevel if possible?

PS: before anyway suggests mitre cuts, contractor suggested that would require a stonemason lol, so i'm pretty sure he'd squeeze a lot more money out of me for that!

 

[Martyn Leeds]

Just make sure your 'contractor' uses a Tiler yeah, and all will become clear..

 

[europa]

Well, he will use a tiler of sorts, but most of his guys are Jacks of all trades: good guys, but not necessarily experts at any particular trade. I would rather ask you guys how it should be done and tell them as i've seen how my bathroom corners have been tiled - not good!

I also need to get the trims myself, ideally today, so any help with my questions would be really appreciated.

 

[Andy Allen]

8mm trim
Round or square.... Personal decision, but I prefer round.
Internal corners cut as normal, just make sure the brick pattern flows round each wall.
Top of the tiles you can use trim, white biscuit tiles I tend not to but would with brown biscuit..

Now que the 'metros should be mitred brigade to appear'....

 

[Tony73]

Hi, you don't need stone mason to mitre tile. And I would do full tile top row, with no tile trim. I would finish it with mastic and paint.

 

[europa]

OK. Thanks, guys. So if finishing top row with full tile, i assume that means you prefer to cut bottom tile (if necessary to fit under cabinets)?

 

[Andy Allen]

No..... Full tile off the worktop cut under cabinets.... Step up to a Full tile finish where there are no cabinet's.

 

[Albert]

OK. Thanks, guys. So if finishing top row with full tile, i assume that means you prefer to cut bottom tile (if necessary to fit under cabinets)?

Usually full tile from bench, and cut to underside of wall units.When you come out
from under the units it goes back to a full tile.

 

[Andy Allen]

Like this..

 

[Albert]

No..... Full tile off the worktop cut under cabinets.... Step up to a Full tile finish where there are no cabinet's.

I guess i'm getting slow

 

[WetSaw]

You don't want to end up with this...

 

[Andy Allen]

One yours paul...?

 

[Tony73]

You don't want to end up with this... View attachment 93407

No protection on worktop?

 

[europa]

8mm trim
Round or square.... Personal decision, but I prefer round.

Is that the 1/4" round profiles? And is "square" the same as what many call straight?

Given i will have a window board (rather than tiled sill), i start to wonder whether i should even bother tiling into the reveal. Is it recommended even when not tiling bottom of reveal? Note: window is above a sink.

 

[Andy Allen]

Square, straight.. All the same.
No idea on the profile of round edge... Just get 8mm.....it will all be roughly the same as any other 8mm trim.
Definitely tile in the reveal even if fitting a window board or it would look pants imo...