Polypipe Overlay

A

Aruffell

After finally getting through all of the struggles, it seems that the Polypipe Overlay system is going to be perfect for the job that we need.

One thing that I can't seem to find a definitive answer to though is tiling on top of it as it's made from a bonded concrete solution I believe and Polypipe say to tile directly onto it.

Then I saw this post - Polypipe Overlay System

Is this the best way? I'm guessing the makeup would be:

Tile
Flexible Adhesive
Ditra
Flexible Adhesive
Latex
Polypipe overlay

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Andy
 
You need to speak to the manufacturers of the system you are use and the will tell you what has been test for there ufh.
No two Systems seam to be the same in price and tile fixing method.
Have you a link to your chosen system?
 
I did a job on Polypipe boards last October - the manufacturer said s1 type adhesive is fine. I am a bit dubious about it but that is what the customer ordered. Tiles are still fixed but I would prime the boards with a couple of coats of the adhesive primer at about 4:1 ratio
.
 
tiling to the polypipe boards is fine, so they say. The issue is fitting the polypipe boards. Usually they are just chucked on the floor, unfixed, bouncing around, floating I'd say.

So, getting them fixed securely is the start...
 
Prime surface with TM Primeplus
Lay Decoupler/Anti fracture Mat (with either TM Ultimate or TM Setaflex)
Fix Tiles with TM Ulitmate or Setaflex
Grout with TM Grout 3000 with flexi master added

still what i would recommend.
 
tiling to the polypipe boards is fine, so they say. The issue is fitting the polypipe boards. Usually they are just chucked on the floor, unfixed, bouncing around, floating I'd say.

So, getting them fixed securely is the start...
Polypipe is supposed to be a loose lay system, with the ends of the boards glued together.
It's the installers responsibility to lay the boards to a flat load bearing surface.
If only......
 
The last conversation I had with Polypipe they informed me that their system was to be loose laid to a perfectly flat, solid, deflection free load bearing substrate.
The ends of the boards are to be glued together formimg one large board.
This coupled with the sheer weight of pipes and water are what holds it in place. There was no need to mechanically fix it.
If fitted to timber floor it can be discreetly screwed to help against deflection.

Page 76
 
Prime surface with TM Primeplus
Lay Decoupler/Anti fracture Mat (with either TM Ultimate or TM Setaflex)
Fix Tiles with TM Ulitmate or Setaflex
Grout with TM Grout 3000 with flexi master added

still what i would recommend.
Other adhesive manufacturers products and uncoupling mats available. 😉
 
Not quite sure I understand? The hardie backer boards are concrete based so conduct heat really well.

Andy
 
So I was sent this by James Hardie and also Polypipe sent it to me too.

Thing is to my knowledge, neither Polypipe nor JamesHardie lay tiles for a living, and that's the reason taking their advice alone can be hazardous.
What BOTH fail to mention is that the overlay boards are
cellulose-fibre-gypsum boards and need Preping accordingly.
 
I've fixed on this system twice now both times boards were screwed to the floor (new screed) but not glued. Ditra fixed to the boards then tiled. The builder took advice from the manufacturer and this is hat he was told. First one was about 3 years ago and no problems so far.
 
I've fixed on this system twice now both times boards were screwed to the floor (new screed) but not glued. Ditra fixed to the boards then tiled. The builder took advice from the manufacturer and this is hat he was told. First one was about 3 years ago and no problems so far.

That bit always worries me🙄
 
Prime surface with TM Primeplus
Lay Decoupler/Anti fracture Mat (with either TM Ultimate or TM Setaflex)
Fix Tiles with TM Ulitmate or Setaflex
Grout with TM Grout 3000 with flexi master added

still what i would recommend.

had another polypipe customer ask again a few weeks ago.

what we came up with was TM Rapid Level 30 over polypipe, TM Ulimtate

polypipe-levelled.jpg


Credit Craig Powell for image.
 
had another polypipe customer ask again a few weeks ago.

what we came up with was TM Rapid Level 30 over polypipe, TM Ulimtate

View attachment 81174

Credit Craig Powell for image.
Always been my preferred method for Polypipe, they still insist you can tile straight on it though...did a 120m floor in Jan and after speaking directly to Polypipe my customer decided my estimate for £2,500 for slc wasn't necessary and he decided for me I'll tile straight on top after several coats of primer that's what I did, not been down long but no problems up to now.
 
Always been my preferred method for Polypipe, they still insist you can tile straight on it though...did a 120m floor in Jan and after speaking directly to Polypipe my customer decided my estimate for £2,500 for slc wasn't necessary and he decided for me I'll tile straight on top after several coats of primer that's what I did, not been down long but no problems up to now.
I did the same in October last year - I still expect a phone call. Would Polypipe be prepared if there are any problems?
 
I did the same in October last year - I still expect a phone call. Would Polypipe be prepared if there are any problems?
I spoke with Polypipe at length and even got them to email me there recommendations, (one of which was overlaying the pipes with PLY 🙁 ) they would not offer any Guarantees on any tile fixing methods..
 
I did a house a few years ago over poly.
Plumber said he has done loads and just tile away.
I gave it a good slc 1st as it used to be 3 rooms and was all over the place.
Still down to this day with no problems.
I went back to the one andy did , its still solid as a rock
 

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