Hi,
Can't seem to find a solid answer as I realise so much depends on multiple factors.
I'm planning to tile my kitchen floor with 8mm porcelain floor tiles (660x440mm).
My kitchen floor is mostly wooden floorboards (house built in 1925), with a strip of concrete along the party wall from where someone a long time ago pulled out a chimney breast and fireplace. The floorboards sit about 6mm lower than the concrete and are solid with no real bounce.
My plan was to lay 6mm cement backerboard on the floorboards to bring it level with the concrete, then use DITRA over the entire floor before tiling (all with a flexible adhesive of course). Assuming I'd also need to prime the floorboards beforehand (not with PVA)?
Would this be sufficient?
And then there's the question of cement backer boards - Hardiebacker or No More Ply?
I've read that NMP is a bit more brittle than Hardiebacker. Given Hardiebacker is affixed with 100%-coverage adhesive and screws, I'm inclined to believe it's a bit more forgiving on small potential depth differences as you can build up the adhesive a tad if needed, whereas NMP uses just two beads of their own adhesive and screws?
Appreciate the expertise!
Can't seem to find a solid answer as I realise so much depends on multiple factors.
I'm planning to tile my kitchen floor with 8mm porcelain floor tiles (660x440mm).
My kitchen floor is mostly wooden floorboards (house built in 1925), with a strip of concrete along the party wall from where someone a long time ago pulled out a chimney breast and fireplace. The floorboards sit about 6mm lower than the concrete and are solid with no real bounce.
My plan was to lay 6mm cement backerboard on the floorboards to bring it level with the concrete, then use DITRA over the entire floor before tiling (all with a flexible adhesive of course). Assuming I'd also need to prime the floorboards beforehand (not with PVA)?
Would this be sufficient?
And then there's the question of cement backer boards - Hardiebacker or No More Ply?
I've read that NMP is a bit more brittle than Hardiebacker. Given Hardiebacker is affixed with 100%-coverage adhesive and screws, I'm inclined to believe it's a bit more forgiving on small potential depth differences as you can build up the adhesive a tad if needed, whereas NMP uses just two beads of their own adhesive and screws?
Appreciate the expertise!
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