Advice needed

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John Benton

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Been out to see a customer about a kitchen floor. Sub-floor is concrete (years old) on top of which is newly installed insulated chipboard (4'x2') sheets, fitted by builder, plugged and screwed only at each corner!!!! There is a bit of deflection in places. Customer wants Warm-Up 10mm insulation boards laying which I will fix. Then the heat mat, that he will fix (he's an electrician), I will then install SLC and then lay 800x800mm porcelain tiles. Area is approx. 24m2.

What are your thoughts on this? Have you guys tiled on to the same background before and has it been ok? Is it suitable for what needs to be done to complete the job or do you think this could be a point of failure in the future?
 
Why didnt they just use Marmox boards on the screed ?

This has been done for weeks and his tiler let him down. Looking at it though it appears that it was used to bring up the level to the same height as the rest of the floor, there was a small step down into the kitchen for some reason.
 
I would want the chipboard floor removed and replaced with marmox. As it is, it will fail IMO......


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Insulated chipboard and only fixed at the corners, that would bother me...

Hence the exclamation marks Whitebeam. I told him it would need more fixings but I'm still not convinced especially putting a tile of that size down, they are just shy of £100m2 so it's got to be done right.
 
I would want the chipboard floor removed and replaced with marmox. As it is, it will fail IMO......


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Kitchen is fitted on top of this floor and an island as well. It cannot come out now.
 
£100 per square meter tiles on £1 per squre meter floor........no no no no no......take the chipboard up and roast some spuds in the fire as you burn them. Then you will have a nice hot meal when you finish installing the marmox boards
 
Kitchen is fitted on top of this floor and an island as well. It cannot come out now.

I could remove that in a couple of hours and have done so in the past. Cut it out up to the legs and install Marmox. Otherwise I would walk, as it will fail!


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I could remove that in a couple of hours and have done so in the past. Cut it out up to the legs and install Marmox. Otherwise I would walk, as it will fail!


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Problem is Stewart the kitchen is installed on top of this insulated chipboard and its approx. 50mm thick
 
i recently put right a job that had been set on chipboard grout had failed after 10 days! tiles had failed soon after! i discovered the daft builder that thought he could tile, had the savvy to install ditra mat although he failed to bond it to the chipboard. thats a lie he had put 6 staples to hold it in place and maybe 20 blobs of gripfill. do it properly or dont touch it!
 
i recently put right a job that had been set on chipboard grout had failed after 10 days! tiles had failed soon after! i discovered the daft builder that thought he could tile, had the savvy to install ditra mat although he failed to bond it to the chipboard. thats a lie he had put 6 staples to hold it in place and maybe 20 blobs of gripfill. do it properly or dont touch it!

My thoughts were exactly that when I looked at the job
 
If you can't remove it, why not screw the chipboard to death then overlay with marmox. I wouldn't tile on that as it is.

tapatalk on my HTC
 
Problem is Stewart the kitchen is installed on top of this insulated chipboard and its approx. 50mm thick

You can still cut that out.... And as I've said, I've done it in the past. You have a floating floor, which I personally will not tile on and always remove.

The only other option I can think of is Weber reccomend their addy and fixing guidelines specifically for floating floors. What kind of backup you would get when it fails, remains to be seen. I love Weber addy, but I still wouldn't use their method on a floating floor!


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The chipboard will swell and bow with any moisture at all even under the kitchen (bloody builders) and i think chipboard is not recommended direct fixed to concrete ,for your own sake rip it out or walk
 
The chipboard will swell and bow with any moisture at all even under the kitchen (bloody builders) and i think chipboard is not recommended direct fixed to concrete ,for your own sake rip it out or walk

Hi Jay, The chipboard already has the insulation fixed to the back of it, so the board does not come into direct contact with the concrete. There is deflection in the floor as the sheets are only fixed at the corners i.e. 4 screws, but from the answers given by the guys already, it looks like it's a non-starter to be fixing to this substrate.
 
Hi Jay, The chipboard already has the insulation fixed to the back of it, so the board does not come into direct contact with the concrete. There is deflection in the floor as the sheets are only fixed at the corners i.e. 4 screws, but from the answers given by the guys already, it looks like it's a non-starter to be fixing to this substrate.
i didn't see it was insulated chipboard john, too much movement in that floor to tile on. if the customer doesn't want to rip it up then it's only good to lay lino or a wood floor on
 
Spoken to him today and let him know the problems with the existing floor, told him I would only be prepared to do the job if the floor came up and was prepped correctly, and he said he wasn't prepared to remove it. The conversation ended so I can assume he is going to go ahead with someone who will tile over it!!!:mad2:
 
Cheers for all the advice fellas, it confirmed my thoughts from the start. :thumbsup:
 

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