B
Bill
But if you would have a got a pro tiler in, just to look at the job he/she would have told you from the getgo about height tolerances.
Big matwell....🙂
With or without trim..🙄
With or without trim..🙄
M
mp3wizard
yeah in hindsight, the trouble is that I didn't even think about tiling and floor height until the floor was down, doh! maybe somekind of decorate strip can be put on the side so you don't see the layers when your looking from the garden in.
M
mp3wizard
*decorative
B
Bill
Get an artist (a pro one) to paint a tile effect 1 metre from the bi-fold doors........
M
mp3wizard
F
Flintstone
How far into the room do the bifold doors come when opening and closing? However far they come in your not going to be having any tiles basically.
Such bad planning imo, your obviously spending a lot of money and it's a shame for the finish to be compromised
Such bad planning imo, your obviously spending a lot of money and it's a shame for the finish to be compromised
M
mp3wizard
They open out, so they shouldn't come past the rail.
O
Old Mod
Yes but my question is still unanswered.
At some point in the build, finished floor levels must have been discussed, were they not?
Yes I understand you'd asked them to bring floor levels to the same height, and rightly so.
Was this asked for before the doors went in?
Do you have plans, or they winging it?
I'm actually serious.
Finished floor height must be written somewhere.
Even if it's only the height that they leave it at!
What is the height of the door above the boarded floor? I know I've already asked, couldn't tell from your image. Must have something you can use as a reference.
The point I'm trying to get to is that, if they just fitted the doors as they saw fit, and not to any spec or instruction, they're wrong and should be made to change it.
If I just laid a floor with no regard to floor heights and I was too high or low, I'd be responsible for putting it right, simple as.
At some point in the build, finished floor levels must have been discussed, were they not?
Yes I understand you'd asked them to bring floor levels to the same height, and rightly so.
Was this asked for before the doors went in?
Do you have plans, or they winging it?
I'm actually serious.
Finished floor height must be written somewhere.
Even if it's only the height that they leave it at!
What is the height of the door above the boarded floor? I know I've already asked, couldn't tell from your image. Must have something you can use as a reference.
The point I'm trying to get to is that, if they just fitted the doors as they saw fit, and not to any spec or instruction, they're wrong and should be made to change it.
If I just laid a floor with no regard to floor heights and I was too high or low, I'd be responsible for putting it right, simple as.
H
hmtiling
As already stated by Andy, a recessed door matt is the most obvious solution I can see
Martyn Leeds
TF
you get some well nice vinyl / amtico stuff these days...
W
WetSaw
I assume you can get some that is suitable for UFH?
M
mp3wizard
I understand that it's not an ideal situation, but considering the bifolds open out, and it's just a 5mm gap, can't I just caulk it or get a strip to cover the edge?
If it is going to be higher than the threshold of the bifold doors, it's not going to look all that good if I'm honest, you could finish the edge with a metal trim but again I wouldn't be happy with that a finish. How much higher than the threshold are you going to end up?
W
WetSaw
There seems to be some confusion about what your problem actually is. If it's the tiles up to the door frame then you'd Silicon it anyway.
M
mp3wizard
Well yeah I was going to use a 5mm edging strip and tile up to it, so the only issue will be that the finish floor level will probably be where the red line is on the pic, the doors open out, so that is it really.
T
Tile Shop
That last wooden board up against the door, what are the dimensions of it? does the near edge line up directly with the corner of the wall (bottom right of the pic)? and can you unscrew it, lift it up and show us whats beneath?
I'm wondering if it can slope down to the door to a small degree by chiselling down whatever is under it, bracing it, screwing it back down, then tile/insulation joints sitting directly above the joint in the board and fill with colour matching Silicon to cater for possible movement?
Not seen it done before but could be a realistic possibility....... couldn't it?
I'm wondering if it can slope down to the door to a small degree by chiselling down whatever is under it, bracing it, screwing it back down, then tile/insulation joints sitting directly above the joint in the board and fill with colour matching Silicon to cater for possible movement?
Not seen it done before but could be a realistic possibility....... couldn't it?
M
mp3wizard
Underneath the board is new joists, and 100mm insulation foam,
Yes i believe that board does go along to the wall, It's an idea, but I'd like to keep the floor as level as possible, with an already hard task I'd like to try and keep it as straight forward as possible, it might not come as far up as the red line, I'm just guestimating atm.
Yes i believe that board does go along to the wall, It's an idea, but I'd like to keep the floor as level as possible, with an already hard task I'd like to try and keep it as straight forward as possible, it might not come as far up as the red line, I'm just guestimating atm.
You are going to need at the least 20mm from floor,6mm boards, ufh matt, slc then tile .
If you ain't bought the tiles you can get some porcalthin tiles off @Ray TT @ Porcel-Thin .
How thick is the bead ? You may be able to just get away with it .
You can also flag outside up to the same ish height.
Me and @Andystiletiling did one, tiled it flush with the doors. So when the dots fully opened the outside became one with the inside 🙂
If you ain't bought the tiles you can get some porcalthin tiles off @Ray TT @ Porcel-Thin .
How thick is the bead ? You may be able to just get away with it .
You can also flag outside up to the same ish height.
Me and @Andystiletiling did one, tiled it flush with the doors. So when the dots fully opened the outside became one with the inside 🙂
M
mp3wizard
I've just swept and cleaned entire floor space with a wet sponge, once it's dry can I put the heat resistant primer down? even if I don't get round to putting down adhesive/insulation mats today?
R
Rich Midge
As long as it's not going to be trafficked too much you should be fine. If it's going to have dusty boots all over it it'll be a waste of time. Personally I always try to prime day before I start.
M
mp3wizard
Ok cheers mate
S
Spare Tool
I'd definitely be looking at sloping your last row of tiles down to be flush with bifold rail as Paul suggested, just leave your ufh and SLC back a foot or so, it'll look miles better from outside than a big trim or whatever your planning when the doors are open.
Did this one this year and its quite a bit more of a slope than your looking at but sometimes its a case of make do with what you have to work with and find solutions..
Did this one this year and its quite a bit more of a slope than your looking at but sometimes its a case of make do with what you have to work with and find solutions..
Very nice Andy...
How come there was such a hight difference?
How come there was such a hight difference?
Did graig screed the floor ...😛
S
Spare Tool
Haha nah, was really flat 😉
S
Spare Tool
Builders house... he designed it and built it before he decided he'd like wet ufh, not ideal but it worked out ok
M
mp3wizard
So I put down some insulation boards earlier, it was keraquick s1 flexible adhesive 20kg mixed with 5.2 litres of water, I certainly learnt a few lessons today, I used a 6mm notched trial, and back buttered all boards, it was all a bit frantic, I believe I have kept about 5mm around the edges free from board but not free from adhesive, does this matter? Although I believe I was fairly consistent with the mix I can see one or 2 slight ridges, this time I was on my own and it was rapid set, for laying tiles I'd have someone with me, I wouldn't be using rapid set and id be using levellers inbetween the tiles, I've only put down 7 boards so far so I am hopeing by the time I've laid them all I'll be a lot better at it.
S
Spare Tool
Nevermind the back skimming boards, some screws and washers wouldn't go a miss..while adys still wet preferably 😉
There are similar tiling threads here
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