My biggest tiling job yet

It's been laid since the end of last November so I would assume 50mm drying at 1mm per day it would be more than dry enough. Roughly twice as long as recommended. I will make the suggestion tomorrow when I get to work if you think it should still be checked, but I think they may be expecting me to start it. Again, will it be OK to split it into 4 sections with expansion joints?
so a unheated room?
its not 1mm a day for this type of screed. It's 1mm for the first x mm and .5 mm per day after that at a curtain temp. What's it the the garage over the winter 5• ?

expansion joint is way down the list of questions to be asked
 
Thank you Impish. I'm beginning to wonder why I even bothered asking questions in the first place.
Julian, the garage has been closed off and industrial heaters left on a low setting for most of the winter.
No I'm not a complete novice and I did ask for advice in layman's terms.
Localtiler was being helpful and now tells me I shouldn't be doing it.
Don't know whether I'm coming or going now.
 
tiled a kitchen floor with simlar floor make up the guy put a large island with huge granite work surface on it. got a call from the builder 4 mths later as there was several cracks in the tiles running from were the island was sited .i proved that the weight of the island had caused the floor to subside by 8 to 10 mm in the centre of the room.
if you take on this project i would ask for a disclaimer
 
sorry Carl, not trying to confuse you, i can just see you cracking on and tiling it without the right information and preperation. what is the screed? That is the first and most important question.
 
tiling can be pretty straight forward at times it can also bite you if you dont cover your self, ajax-is probably right on his calculations but if the kingspan is on a uneven substraight or is over a void then thats were the pressures are going to create problems when the cars move over it weve all seen brick paved drives with car tramlines in them.
 
sorry Carl, not trying to confuse you, i can just see you cracking on and tiling it without the right information and preperation. what is the screed? That is the first and most important question.
the screed isnt the problem its the king span and the sub floor were the pressures are going to be
 
tiled a kitchen floor with simlar floor make up the guy put a large island with huge granite work surface on it. got a call from the builder 4 mths later as there was several cracks in the tiles running from were the island was sited .i proved that the weight of the island had caused the floor to subside by 8 to 10 mm in the centre of the room.
if you take on this project i would ask for a disclaimer
so you were help responsible for the tile failure then Ray? Yes?
 
Localtiler, I should be able to get that info tomorrow.
Ray, the sub floor is 6" reinforced concrete and laser levelled and the kingspan is tightly packed in over a damp proof membrane with expansion foam all around the edge. Fairly confident there are no voids but I guess you never know. Having said that, if there are voids isn't it a bit late to deal with them?
 
I'm not kno
Ajax. I was starting to get disheartened about this job until you came along. I can't really get away from doing this job as the guy is one of my bosses. I feel a bit more comfortable after your comments but what about expansion joints in the tiles. Could I get away with tiling it in four sections and would I need a solid bed of adhesive or maybe use a wall trowel notched to10mm deep. Cheers for your input. In fact thanks to everyone who's commented.
knowlegible on trowel size to comment but I would have thought trowel addys on the floor and back butter the tile. In terms of movement joints you should follow the standards which from memory is max bay length 8m max size 40m2. Are you using uncoupling. When doing car showrooms tilers often do so.
 
so you were help responsible for the tile failure then Ray? Yes?
they tried to put it on me. we took a tile up and running throught the screed was a great big crack and the floor had dropped 10 mmto the side of the island .
we solved the issue by marking out were the legs of the units stood taking out the island and core drilling 70mm holes were the legs stood, so releasing the pressures that the island had created then putting the island back on to the areas drilled were we replaced the king span with 120mm concrete blocks. core drilled out we then replaced the cracked tiles and have had no call backs since that was about 12 yrs ago
 
take the job on m8 and good luck the best way to get a solid bed is to use a pin leveler.
set the pins at required depth then spread
 
I think what needs to happen here is everyone just take a deep breath!
There's every chance Carl may have to at least look like he's starting tomorrow and he's being bombarded from all side, not only with different opinions but other spurious conversations that have nothing to do with this thread.
Give the guy a break and lets put together a check list, starting at A and finishing at Z
 
I think what needs to happen here is everyone just take a deep breath!
There's every chance Carl may have to at least look like he's starting tomorrow and he's being bombarded from all side, not only with different opinions but other spurious conversations that have nothing to do with this thread.
Give the guy a break and lets put together a check list, starting at A and finishing at Z
Thanks 3 fall
 
I'm not kno

knowlegible on trowel size to comment but I would have thought trowel addys on the floor and back butter the tile. In terms of movement joints you should follow the standards which from memory is max bay length 8m max size 40m2. Are you using uncoupling. When doing car showrooms tilers often do so.
As I said Ajax this is my first job of this size so I don't know what you mean by uncoupling, please explain. Thanks
 
I've just had to read the whole thread, not been keeping up.
Carl, it's not heated, correct?
 
Uncoupling is a thin layer around 1 or 2mm thick that you stick down with adhesive prior laying the tiles. Usually made up of multiple layers, they allow expansion and contraction of the floor witout affecting the tile it's self. Or if a small crack appeared in the floor, the uncoupling would give you A much better chance of that not cracking a tile
 
The first thing you must do is find out the exact make up of the screed, in other words, sand and cement or gypsum based anhydride.
Two completely different animals.
 
Thanks for all the advice guys, I'll definitely find out what the flow screed is made up of and also see about getting it moisture tested. Uncoupling sounds like a very good plan too. Probably will make the bays 5m square.
 
So you sound like you know what you're talking about tomorrow, basically if it is anhydride stick an antifracture mat/ decoupler down with an anhydride specific adhesive like anhyfix.
It will need a prime coat first.
Stick your decoupler/antifracture mat down and then you can use regular cement based adhesives on top.
If you don't use an antifracture, you'll have to use the anhyfix to stick the floor, but general opinion of most is that using an antifracture affords so many benefits it's worth it, even if it's not a heated screed.
If it's sand and cement, which sounds doubtful, tile in an conventional way, still using expansion joints. Which for a best result should be actually cut into the screed not just in the tiling.
Oh ok some heating, best stick to the 40m2
Well that gives you a good excuse to push for the antifracture/decoupler too.
You can use a cold joint as an expansion (mastic) but not perfect.
That's basic info but should help you thro the first conversations.
So rest is up to you. 🙂
For now anyway.
 
Just noticed that you are in Navenby Carl, been through there loads of times, was down in Metheringham all weekend just got home
 

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