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Italy
you have read the post presentation of carl?
It is not a beginner
It is not a beginner
so a unheated room?It's been laid since the end of last November so I would assume 50mm drying at 1mm per day it would be more than dry enough. Roughly twice as long as recommended. I will make the suggestion tomorrow when I get to work if you think it should still be checked, but I think they may be expecting me to start it. Again, will it be OK to split it into 4 sections with expansion joints?
the screed isnt the problem its the king span and the sub floor were the pressures are going to besorry Carl, not trying to confuse you, i can just see you cracking on and tiling it without the right information and preperation. what is the screed? That is the first and most important question.
so you were help responsible for the tile failure then Ray? Yes?tiled a kitchen floor with simlar floor make up the guy put a large island with huge granite work surface on it. got a call from the builder 4 mths later as there was several cracks in the tiles running from were the island was sited .i proved that the weight of the island had caused the floor to subside by 8 to 10 mm in the centre of the room.
if you take on this project i would ask for a disclaimer
knowlegible on trowel size to comment but I would have thought trowel addys on the floor and back butter the tile. In terms of movement joints you should follow the standards which from memory is max bay length 8m max size 40m2. Are you using uncoupling. When doing car showrooms tilers often do so.Ajax. I was starting to get disheartened about this job until you came along. I can't really get away from doing this job as the guy is one of my bosses. I feel a bit more comfortable after your comments but what about expansion joints in the tiles. Could I get away with tiling it in four sections and would I need a solid bed of adhesive or maybe use a wall trowel notched to10mm deep. Cheers for your input. In fact thanks to everyone who's commented.
they tried to put it on me. we took a tile up and running throught the screed was a great big crack and the floor had dropped 10 mmto the side of the island .so you were help responsible for the tile failure then Ray? Yes?
I wouldn't know...they're above my pay gradeAston's are front end heavy so it'd be more like .65 on the front and .35 on the rear maybe lol
Mine too.I wouldn't know...they're above my pay grade
Aston's are front end heavy so it'd be more like .65 on the front and .35 on the rear maybe lol
Thanks 3 fallI think what needs to happen here is everyone just take a deep breath!
There's every chance Carl may have to at least look like he's starting tomorrow and he's being bombarded from all side, not only with different opinions but other spurious conversations that have nothing to do with this thread.
Give the guy a break and lets put together a check list, starting at A and finishing at Z
Thanks Raytake the job on m8 and good luck the best way to get a solid bed is to use a pin leveler.
set the pins at required depth then spread
As I said Ajax this is my first job of this size so I don't know what you mean by uncoupling, please explain. ThanksI'm not kno
knowlegible on trowel size to comment but I would have thought trowel addys on the floor and back butter the tile. In terms of movement joints you should follow the standards which from memory is max bay length 8m max size 40m2. Are you using uncoupling. When doing car showrooms tilers often do so.
How would you advise Carl to solid bed 900x900 tiles @impish
There's about a metres width or just over which is heated running round the edge of the garage. Pointless I thought!!!!!If it's heated, 40m2 bays max, if not, I THINK not positive, it's 100m2