Hi I'm going out to price a conservatory floor today. Customer wants electric ufh. Floor is concrete. I was going to lay marmox then wires covered in slc. Is ditra overkill or would you use it? Tiles will be either ceramic or porcelain.
Is Ditra an overkill on concrete with ceramic tiles?
- Thread starter bigdave1903
- Start date
H
hmtiling
Ditra is overkill with ceramic and porcelain imo. The marmox has decoupling properties. I'd prob use ditra if 200w per m2 and very soft stone
Perfect thank you. Do you screw your marmox down too Or do you just glue it down?
H
hmtiling
Just adhesive on concrete. I glue and screw to timber.
Excellent. Thanks again for your help.
S
Stef
Dave do you use CTD up your way??
If you do get the Jackon boards as a lot cheaper than marmox.
It will need to be 10mm boards for sticking to concrete, if any thinner they need fixed with screws & washers.
I wouldn't use Ditra as the thermal boards will give u a bit of decoupling from the base.
If you do get the Jackon boards as a lot cheaper than marmox.
It will need to be 10mm boards for sticking to concrete, if any thinner they need fixed with screws & washers.
I wouldn't use Ditra as the thermal boards will give u a bit of decoupling from the base.
Perfect cheers. Yeah its ctd I use. They said they only do contract boards and hardi. Never used their contract board before so not sure what it is.
Sorry stef my mistake. I believe they are jackon boards.
S
Stef
Yeah they are m8, good to use, I'm using them more & more over Hardie. Easier to handle & cut & as stated they will decouple slightly from the base.
Nice one. Just been to see it. It's actually a chipboard floor so just going to do the same prep but glue and screw 6mm board.
F
Flintstone
Not a floating floor is it ?
Nah definitely not. Thats the 1st thing I checked when I saw it.
Ok so its back to the drawing board. I've just spoken to the architect and apparently it is a floating floor. He said the joists are 200mm apart. What are my options?
S
Stef
Is there much movement in it?
Consensous is not to touch them but I have tiled to floaters as they have been quite rigid without problem.
It certainly felt solid when I walked on it. Customer said it wasn't floating but architect confirmed it was.
If it's floating it won't have joist just chipboard over kingspan.
A
AndY mac
Hi Dave. Check for deflection if really bad walk away there are some horrors of floaters up here. If you must do it the way I did one a while back was 10 mm marmox glued and screwed heated then screeded then ditra tiled with a decent 2 part. I was back at this property to do there bathrooms and all was good but it's a gamble. I only did it after stressing if ther was a failure I would not be held responsible. The garuntee only lasted till I walked down there path and into the van.
I
m
m
I'm confused now. Architect definitely said the joists were 200mm apart. Is a suspended floor the same as floating floor? This pricing malarky is harder than I expected haha.
A
AndY mac
No different
S
Stef
I looked again & noticed that you said the joists were 200mm apart, strange make up even if it's a suspended floor, normally 400mm apart even if they are trying to strengthen the floor knowing its to get tiled.
Pull a bit of carpet back and look for fixings if there are none then it's a floating floor which is just chipboard over insulation (kingspan)....not screwed or nailed down to joist..
It's a new conservatory so its just chipboard down. There were plenty screws in the chipboard. Thought I was going to have to get nanolight adhesive to stick to all that metal haha
S
Stef
I would go back to the architect & ask him again what exactly the floor make up is before I went any further.
It sounds like a suspended floor but those joists are very close together.
Better news for you as at those centres it should be rock solid.
Perfect thanks. Will do.
There are similar tiling threads here
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