Is this overkill for a tiled floor? - Tile Advice

[redchair]

Hello all,

Hoping that once again I can get some good advice on here, you were invaluable when I installed a new shower..

So the kitchen floor tiles have been taken up and remaining adhesive removed. The concrete floor 'looks' dry and feels fine, if not cold at times.

Prior to the tiles being lifted, there was a damp feeling on the room tiles, but I've just had some repairs done to the outside brickwork where moisture was no doubt getting in. It feels fine inside, but winter may change that.

Basically, I'm trying to understand whether I need to lay a liquid DPM prior to tiling. The order would be Ardex rapid repair (repair divets from removing tiles/adhesive). Arden NA self level. Arden DPM 1C, then NA again prior to laying adhesive and tiles (don't know which yet).

I know NA is moisture resistant, so I just want to know if I'm kicking the *** out of it? (the DPM is 200 quid!). If that's what's needed then fine, I just don't like the idea of wasting money. I've looked at hiring a hygrometer, pain in the backside and expensive, plus I'd really like to crack on this weekend.

And my final 2 daft questions...

1. Would the above be suitable for an engineered wood (keep options open)
2. Do I need to cover the whole kitchen floor, or just where the tiles / flooring is going? Not doing the whole floor would save about 30% on self leveller and DPM. But again. just want to do a proper job.

Thanks in advance!

 

[redchair]

Bumping this!

I've checked the floor levels and lowest to highest is 12mm, so NA appears to be out.

I did the plastic bag test for 2 days with no moisture seen at all, would you still apply a liquid DPM?

Could I simply level the floor with NA and aggregate without a DPM and second layer of NA?

Thanks all.

 

[Tile Marble Granite]

I would get a dehumidifier to dry up the concrete, once dry I would prime the area and level floor as needed. I would install uncoupling membrane Dural Durabase or Ditra Matting, that would be a start in the right direction. Good luck!

 

[Ajax123]

The only way to tell if its dry is yo test it. If you can't get bothered yo test it I'd treat it as if its damp. You could dispense with the second layer of NA if you used a gritted primer but the cost might not justify so I'd go with the spec in the OP. Yes it would suit a wooden floor as well