D
Dumbo
Unless its the picture it might not hurt to clean the floor up a bit before continuing.
M
mp3wizard
yep I will have a cleanup, and I've got the screws and washers so will put those on also.
I'm trying to work out how many levelling clips/wedges I will need for this job, I've got 42 800 x 800mm tiles to put down, which works out as 23.3ish square meters,
I'm looking at;
RLS leveling system & Tile Spacers - http://www.kwiksplit.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_Raimondi_Tile_Spacers_and_Levelling_System.html
but can't work out how many I need, doesn't help that the chart consumption chart doesn't open for me on my laptop.
I'm trying to work out how many levelling clips/wedges I will need for this job, I've got 42 800 x 800mm tiles to put down, which works out as 23.3ish square meters,
I'm looking at;
RLS leveling system & Tile Spacers - http://www.kwiksplit.co.uk/acatalog/copy_of_copy_of_Raimondi_Tile_Spacers_and_Levelling_System.html
but can't work out how many I need, doesn't help that the chart consumption chart doesn't open for me on my laptop.
M
mp3wizard
sorry?
I
Italy
8,7 pieces for sqm
M
mp3wizard
so if I order 200 clips and 200 wedges that would be more than enough wouldn't it.
I
Italy
yes,if you make it all in one day, otherwise the use wedges those of the day before.
Should really of screwed down the boarders as you were laying them while the adhesive was still wet.
M
mp3wizard
I think it will take more like 2-3 days for me to lay,
yeh I realise that now, well I've only layed down a row and a half so far of insulation so I will definitely do that for the rest, thanks.
yeh I realise that now, well I've only layed down a row and a half so far of insulation so I will definitely do that for the rest, thanks.
I
Italy
then they are quite 100 pieces of wedges
F
Flintstone
The slight un evenness of boards shouldn't matter too much if you do a good job of levelling it.
M
mp3wizard
M
mp3wizard
Guys I'm trying to get some screws down, I'm separating at 300mm roughly, I'm finding some going down tight, some not so much, I guess some are catching joist others are not, from what you see is there any problem from continuing the way I am so far?
F
Flintstone
Looks fine to me, it's getting a covering of levelling compound anyway so don't be overly concerned about the washers being pulled right in
M
mp3wizard
Merry Christmas all,
I have laid down all boards to cut to right size, I intend to take them back up tomorrow and put the adhesive underneath and then screw down, I've ran out of 25mm screws. i've got quite a few slithers along the sides of the room, i'm guessing I can only secure with adhesive and not screws as they are too small. i've also ran foam around the perimeter. I have laid a couple of boards in the bathroom not in brick fashion as it was easier, I just plan to have 1 metres worth of underfloor heating in that room, so hopefully it's not such a huge issue.
can I tape the joints with insulation tape or does it require adhesive?
hopefully I will be in a position to lay the self levelling compound Wednesday or Thursday, I understand that I should purchase a spiked roller and maybe some spikes to fit on my trainers. any suggestions on where to pick it up from locally?with slower xmas deliveries etc, and any advice on size? I have a plastic float already.
the compound I have is 5 bags of tm flexilevel 25kg, the square metres of the floor should be 23.33, will I need to order some more? and any tips?
thanks and apologies I realize this post is a bit jumbled up.
I have laid down all boards to cut to right size, I intend to take them back up tomorrow and put the adhesive underneath and then screw down, I've ran out of 25mm screws. i've got quite a few slithers along the sides of the room, i'm guessing I can only secure with adhesive and not screws as they are too small. i've also ran foam around the perimeter. I have laid a couple of boards in the bathroom not in brick fashion as it was easier, I just plan to have 1 metres worth of underfloor heating in that room, so hopefully it's not such a huge issue.
can I tape the joints with insulation tape or does it require adhesive?
hopefully I will be in a position to lay the self levelling compound Wednesday or Thursday, I understand that I should purchase a spiked roller and maybe some spikes to fit on my trainers. any suggestions on where to pick it up from locally?with slower xmas deliveries etc, and any advice on size? I have a plastic float already.
the compound I have is 5 bags of tm flexilevel 25kg, the square metres of the floor should be 23.33, will I need to order some more? and any tips?
thanks and apologies I realize this post is a bit jumbled up.
O
Old Mod
If it is 23.3m2 it will take at least 8 bags to give you a 5mm covering of latex.
Depending on thickness of UFH,this is probably the least amount of coveringyou will need.
You can buy a spiked roller from Topps. It's generally a stock item.
Do not use insulation tape.
Use a skrim tape and stick it down with tile adhesive.
You'll only need a skim of adhesive over it. Use the back of your trowel.
Plastic trowel? Serrated?
You are aware you just can't pour the latex and walk away, aren't you?
Depending on thickness of UFH,this is probably the least amount of coveringyou will need.
You can buy a spiked roller from Topps. It's generally a stock item.
Do not use insulation tape.
Use a skrim tape and stick it down with tile adhesive.
You'll only need a skim of adhesive over it. Use the back of your trowel.
Plastic trowel? Serrated?
You are aware you just can't pour the latex and walk away, aren't you?
M
mp3wizard
ok thanks, ive got a plastic grout float, can I use that?
yes I've watched some videos, i'll need to pour it in spread into corners, and use the spiked roller right
yes I've watched some videos, i'll need to pour it in spread into corners, and use the spiked roller right
O
Old Mod
Gosh, it's truly not that simple.
Will you have help?
You'll need it.
You have to keep a wet edge.
If you prep your floor properly you'll have a lot easier time of tiling it.
Please don't underestimate the execution of latexing over your heating cables.
It's very easy to get very wrong.
The only thing self levelling is water,anything thicker like latex, will level out, but only to a point.
After you've stuck and screwed the boards and taped the joints, and laid your UFH mats, you need to survey your floor.
Assuming you have a level, find the highest point of the floor.
Using 25mm screws, place one so that the screw head is 5mm higher than the insulation board.
Using this as your start point, put them every few feet around your floor, using your level to keep them as level with each other as you can.
So that when your pour your latex you have a visual guide to the amount of latex you require in different areas of the floor.
Use them as markers, just don't screw one in to the UFH or too close to it.
You'll need someone to mix for you, follow the instructions to the amount of water to the letter. Get a measuring jug. Use a whisk in a drill to mix the latex. Do not mix by hand, you won't get it correct.
Once mixed,let it stand for 2-3 mins, then mix again, then pour.
Don't just empty the bucket in one go, try to pour the required amount in that area.
Once poured,run the roller through it and it should help level it out. Use a trowel to push it around if required, but the more you trowel, the more likely you are to cause unevenness in the floor.
And if you add more water than required, you will make the latex weak and unstable. DO NOT BE TEMPTED!
I hope that's of help to you.
Yes there are other methods, and maybe someone can suggest an easier one.
But if you survey the floor properly, and take your time, not only will you end up with a flat floor, you'll save yourself so much grief when it comes to tiling it. It's worth all the messing about, especially as you've never undertaken anything like this before.
Best of bleeding British! Cos you will need it.
Will you have help?
You'll need it.
You have to keep a wet edge.
If you prep your floor properly you'll have a lot easier time of tiling it.
Please don't underestimate the execution of latexing over your heating cables.
It's very easy to get very wrong.
The only thing self levelling is water,anything thicker like latex, will level out, but only to a point.
After you've stuck and screwed the boards and taped the joints, and laid your UFH mats, you need to survey your floor.
Assuming you have a level, find the highest point of the floor.
Using 25mm screws, place one so that the screw head is 5mm higher than the insulation board.
Using this as your start point, put them every few feet around your floor, using your level to keep them as level with each other as you can.
So that when your pour your latex you have a visual guide to the amount of latex you require in different areas of the floor.
Use them as markers, just don't screw one in to the UFH or too close to it.
You'll need someone to mix for you, follow the instructions to the amount of water to the letter. Get a measuring jug. Use a whisk in a drill to mix the latex. Do not mix by hand, you won't get it correct.
Once mixed,let it stand for 2-3 mins, then mix again, then pour.
Don't just empty the bucket in one go, try to pour the required amount in that area.
Once poured,run the roller through it and it should help level it out. Use a trowel to push it around if required, but the more you trowel, the more likely you are to cause unevenness in the floor.
And if you add more water than required, you will make the latex weak and unstable. DO NOT BE TEMPTED!
I hope that's of help to you.
Yes there are other methods, and maybe someone can suggest an easier one.
But if you survey the floor properly, and take your time, not only will you end up with a flat floor, you'll save yourself so much grief when it comes to tiling it. It's worth all the messing about, especially as you've never undertaken anything like this before.
Best of bleeding British! Cos you will need it.
W
White Room
You could purchase a 2 part slc, might make it a tad easier so you mix the right combination.
M
mp3wizard
Thanks for those tips, obviously I've been watching videos and reading articles, but there are definitely useful tips such as the screws as a guide, which I hadn't thought about.
I'm planning to prepare as much as possible and get my wife to mix whilst I'm pouring the first batch. It looks like I will need an extra 3 bags of slc then, will there be a problem if I buy a different brand? I'm guessing I just need to ensure the volume/consistency is exactly the same as first 5 bags?
I'm planning to prepare as much as possible and get my wife to mix whilst I'm pouring the first batch. It looks like I will need an extra 3 bags of slc then, will there be a problem if I buy a different brand? I'm guessing I just need to ensure the volume/consistency is exactly the same as first 5 bags?
O
Old Mod
No, you have to mix according to the guide on the back of the bag.
Try use other bags in separate areas like the bathroom or utility, I'm sure you get the idea.
No disrespect to your wife, this however, is very heavy work!
You need to mix a complete bag at a time.
Do not mix partial bags.
Get a gorilla tub or similar.
Each mix will weigh well in excess of 30kg, it will take the two of you to transport it to the pour area and to pour the bucket exactly where you need it.
You'll need something like a plasterers bucket to spin the whisk in after you've mixed.
By the time you pour and go back to your whisk it will have dried on the paddle, spin it in water immediately after and it should stay clean.
Try and have as much clean water beside you as you can if you can't use a hose.
You have to work as quickly as possible, once you start, you can't stop.
You need to keep that wet edge.
Be methodical.
Try use other bags in separate areas like the bathroom or utility, I'm sure you get the idea.
No disrespect to your wife, this however, is very heavy work!
You need to mix a complete bag at a time.
Do not mix partial bags.
Get a gorilla tub or similar.
Each mix will weigh well in excess of 30kg, it will take the two of you to transport it to the pour area and to pour the bucket exactly where you need it.
You'll need something like a plasterers bucket to spin the whisk in after you've mixed.
By the time you pour and go back to your whisk it will have dried on the paddle, spin it in water immediately after and it should stay clean.
Try and have as much clean water beside you as you can if you can't use a hose.
You have to work as quickly as possible, once you start, you can't stop.
You need to keep that wet edge.
Be methodical.
O
Old Mod
You need to plan your pour, this may sound daft, but don't work yourself in to the corner of a room, make sure you work toward an exit.
I'd suggest covering your patio, if you have one, with a large tarp or board and have everything outside, and work toward the patio doors.
It'll be the biggest door, that way you can carry the bucket together.
I'd suggest covering your patio, if you have one, with a large tarp or board and have everything outside, and work toward the patio doors.
It'll be the biggest door, that way you can carry the bucket together.
O
Old Mod
Survey your floor before you buy extra slc if you can, failing that, buy from somewhere that will let you return excess bags.
8 is the bare minimum you will need for a constant
5mm covering.
After you've surveyed the floor, if any of the screws are higher than 5mm from the board, you will need more. So put half in and measure their height, you should be able to gauge how level the floor is by then.
It's approximately 1.7kg per mm depth per metre squared.
23.33 x 1.7 x 5 = 198kg divided by 25 if 25kg bags
Or 20 if 20kg bags.
That's 8 bags @25kg
That's 10 bags @20kg
8 is the bare minimum you will need for a constant
5mm covering.
After you've surveyed the floor, if any of the screws are higher than 5mm from the board, you will need more. So put half in and measure their height, you should be able to gauge how level the floor is by then.
It's approximately 1.7kg per mm depth per metre squared.
23.33 x 1.7 x 5 = 198kg divided by 25 if 25kg bags
Or 20 if 20kg bags.
That's 8 bags @25kg
That's 10 bags @20kg
M
mp3wizard
I've got everything apart from the spiked shoes, would it matter too much if I did it in boots?
So by maintaining a wet edge it just means that the slc needs to stay constantly wet around the edges?
Is it safe to use the spiked roller all over the underfloor heating without damaging the elements? And the screws put in to visually see the levels, they'll just stay in place if I go over them presumably?
So by maintaining a wet edge it just means that the slc needs to stay constantly wet around the edges?
Is it safe to use the spiked roller all over the underfloor heating without damaging the elements? And the screws put in to visually see the levels, they'll just stay in place if I go over them presumably?
F
Flintstone
I think 3 fall has covered most of it for you.
I wouldn't mix brands at all just get more of the same. Better to get more than you need as if you run out that will be a real pain.
I wouldn't walk all over wires with spiked shoes personally. I use a spiked roller with an extendable painters pole which goes to about 3m long when it's extended, that's normally plenty, it really really helps to spread it out nice. If you do need to get down and trowel it, I normally just tickle it with a large notch trowel so your only moving 50% of it with a sweep, if not you end up just moving the slc away and causing more problems than your solving.
I always mix a full bag at a time, then when it's ready to pour I pour about half into a normal size bucket so it's more manageable then I pour it in a line etc so it's not all getting poured in one big heap
I wouldn't mix brands at all just get more of the same. Better to get more than you need as if you run out that will be a real pain.
I wouldn't walk all over wires with spiked shoes personally. I use a spiked roller with an extendable painters pole which goes to about 3m long when it's extended, that's normally plenty, it really really helps to spread it out nice. If you do need to get down and trowel it, I normally just tickle it with a large notch trowel so your only moving 50% of it with a sweep, if not you end up just moving the slc away and causing more problems than your solving.
I always mix a full bag at a time, then when it's ready to pour I pour about half into a normal size bucket so it's more manageable then I pour it in a line etc so it's not all getting poured in one big heap
W
White Room
Yes it is safe....
F
Flintstone
Also, I would put the spirit level on and check for any real high or low spots before you get the wires down, I find that easier
D
Dumbo
I also use extendable deco pole really good tool for this
W
WetSaw
When you're pouring the batches of SLC keep the edges between each pour wet so they become one. Don't pour in random areas.
M
mp3wizard
So I've used the scrim tape and covered the joints, looking to lay the mats out tomorrow and do the compound, I am quite apprehensive about this, but I'll be following everything to the letter, one issue is that my only water source is in the kitchen which needs to be one of the first areas to do, maybe I'll see if I can connect a hose to mix in the other room, also I am wondering if I should fit a wood batten at edge of room as other room has wooden boards with biggish gaps.
Last edited by a moderator:
F
Flintstone
You will need some sort of Baton on the end there where the floorboards are and you will neeed plenty of water! Outside tap would be ideal
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