How best to Tile a room?

The tiles couldn't be got for cheaper, the tiler I was going to use checked, and I spent £150 on tools, so I can't see that massive savings would of been made, maybe £40 at most.
 
On a serious note, take plenty of pics of before, during & after then start a new thread showing off your work.

I agree with most that you are better off getting a professional in, but at the same time I always love it when the underdog shines through and proves a point! At the end of the day this is your property and not like some we have had on here before wanting to take on complex jobs for paying customers without the knowledge.
 
Just caught up with this. Fascinated to see how this goes. My advice @mp3wizard is don't be a stranger, ask, ask and ask again, many on here happy to help out. Best of luck.
 
Hi All,

Installing Insulation boards

I have got the 6mm Deltaboards, so firstly I was going to sweep the floor clean, then clean the floor with a sponge, wait until it's dry then paint the entire area with heatflex, once dry I was then going to lay the boards in a brick fashion, I was going to use 15 25mm screws on 35mm washers per board at 300mm differences to fix the boards down, once fixed I was then going to use some special thermal tape to tape the joints, and put a light skim of tile adhesive over the joints as per 3-falls picture on page 2.

Are there any problems with my plan so far?

I understand that I need to leave a 5mm gap all around the edges for expansion/movement is that correct? and because I will be looking to put the SLC ontop, would it be wise to purchase and install the spongy foam spacers all around the room for this purpose? because I'm worried that when I pour the SLC out, especially around the bifold doors that it will just go into the tracks if I don't protect it...
 
Your half way right, your best sticking the boards with tile adhesive as well as screwing. Use a 6 or 8mm notch trowel, no dot and dab.
 
The bigger the tile the harder to fit ,best get someone to do it ,just being honest ,good luck
 
The expansion is around perimeter only.
The adhesive is to stick the board tapes down.
Word of caution, slc is not completely self levelling, you can easily easily make it worse!
Research techniques first.
If you can get help, do so.
On average consumption rate is 1.7kg per mm per m2 make sure you have enough.
Mix exact water quants as per instructions, mix and let it rest for 2-3 mins, mix again and use.
Get a mechanical whisk that inserts in to a drill, and a spiked roller.
The roller will expel excess air and help level it.
Topps will sell them.
 
all around the perimeter yep, would the foam be the best method to avoid getting slc in the frame of bifolds?
 
Hi, sorry, I'm not living at the property at the moment and don't have the dimensions on me. I will comeback to you on that.


I've been waiting for the rest of the work to finish before attempting anything with the floor but all the tradesmen are busy with other projects which is frustrating.


The most concerning thing at the moment is trying to work out what I can do with the floor level as the bifolds have been installed and are at the optimum height now, but by the time I got 6mm insulation down, another 3mm for self levelling compound, then tile width and adhesive it's going to be over 10mm, the doors cannot be installed at a different height to much work has gone in,


So what can I do? I know there needs to be a 5mm gap around the permiter, which id do with foam or expanding foam, but what can I do then when it’s time to lay the tiles, keep the 5mm gap and fill it with something afterwards?
 
5mm gap round the peremeter is not a problem,

The height of the floor, can't really be changed unless you start taking up the sub floor
 
You could always take the advice from earlier and get a tiler. You have all the other tradesmen in your words doing there jobs. A tiler will have been able to foresee these issues and sort the problem before it came up.
Now your money saving may prove not to be that much of a saving.
 
Reading back your 3 posts Gamma, reminds me of the Referendum, don't do it, it's all going to end terribly, when I started the thread I already decided to do it myself, so there's not much point repeating it.
 
Reading back your 3 posts Gamma, reminds me of the Referendum, don't do it, it's all going to end terribly, when I started the thread I already decided to do it myself, so there's not much point repeating it.
Fair enough. But reading through your posts you keep going after good advice until you get an answer that suits you. If you don't want to listen to the advice of the people on here why ask. You will never get to a point in a thread for you to complete this project. The shear amount of knowledge and potential fails that can and probably will happen cannot be condensed into a couple of paragraphs.
Good luck.
 
Out of curiosity, what is the measurement between your existing floor and the bifold door fame.
What allowance for build up do you have?
 
Hi,

I don't know the measurements at the mo, but as you can see from the picture, there hasn't been enough space left, so I was intending to use edging strips and tile up to it after the boards, slc etc, and see what I can do with it. obviously it's not how it should of been done but there's nothing I can do about it now unless you have any better suggestions?

photo.JPG
 
well they have levelled out the floor to the floor in the other room which I asked for, I bought the underfloor heating towards the latter stages of the build and only started my research then, so at that point I wasn't aware I'd need insulation boards or slc, and I don't think they have dealt with underfloor heating so they weren't aware how much tolerance to leave either, no the floor height wasn't on the plans.
 

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