Advice needed self levelling please :)

A

Anto Holland

Sup fellas

Okay so slightly nervous as I have a floor to level next week. It runs out by 10-12m.... I self levelled a floor a few weeks ago but got it wrong so my confidence is not good right now.

What is the best SL to buy. It's going on concrete. Do you any of you use the fast setting stuff because I think that's where I went wrong.

Before I knew it the stuff was set and had loads of bubbles in it. Looked like a aero! Don't worry I never left it like that I got it sorted in the end but it was a nightmare. Got to be done properly.

I was planning on mixing it then just pouring from furthest corner outwards and letting it run out itself. Been advised not to trowel. Just a bit confused so what is you plan of action if you were me.?


So, what is best self level to use? Worth using longer setting stuff?

You will all probably laugh at this post, but I am not very experienced in self levelling its as simple as that.

Thanks (Be nice) I'm asking advice. I'm not a pro. I may have said that once in retaliation and I am sorry.

I'm here to become a better tiler.

Cheers
 
:lol: You said I had to laugh!
The best levelling compound IMHO is the Weber fast flex from CTD.
Mix it as stated on the bag and it flows as you want it.
Good luck and enjoy.
 
Make sure there is nowhere it can flow away to, holes pipe outlets etc, and it finds it's own levels.
 
I would opt for Mapei Eco if over concrete, I think it flows better than any other I have used to date.
I usually stick to either Weber floor flex, Mapei renovation screed or Eco.
I have been using more Mapei recently though & especially Eco if I can use it.
There's no fibres in the Eco & it's a lot thinner in consistency to the other 2 & that's how it finds it's level easier.
ded9bd7b4e228a8e58d57e941621ca38.jpg

31a70c6c231dc2f46105618010935c26.jpg

Sorry photos aren't great as the bags are on racks in my garage.
 
Stef said:
I would opt for Mapei Eco if over concrete, I think it flows better than any other I have used to date.
I usually stick to either Weber floor flex, Mapei renovation screed or Eco.
I have been using more Mapei recently though & especially Eco if I can use it.
There's no fibres in the Eco & it's a lot thinner in consistency to the other 2 & that's how it finds it's level easier.
ded9bd7b4e228a8e58d57e941621ca38.jpg

31a70c6c231dc2f46105618010935c26.jpg

Sorry photos aren't great as the bags are on racks in my garage.
Click to expand...

Do you have to do a stock take every six months mate?
You have more powder than Kate moss's drug dealer!!
 
I use tilemaster levelflex, if possible I like to mix up enough to do the job in one hit, ie maybe mix up a few bags in a few buckets and start pouring twith the first bucketful mixed (I do give them a quick whisk up after initial mixing) when I pour I use a trowel, usually an old 18 inch plastering trowel, to push slc into the corners and sides so it can flow back and find it's level, repeat the process until all your mixes have been poured.
 
I'm with Stef. Mapei Ultraplan renovation screed for wood or over UFH and Mapei Ultraplan Eco on concrete.
In fact I levelled a kitchen floor last night with Eco. Bang on this morning with a 1mm difference end to end now instead of the 10mm before and no massive hump in the centre!! Great stuff

e786c657357221aa3fb7d981c2592741.jpg


Going to give weber SLC a go soon as using their adhesives a lot now
 
Plan Tec Tiling said:
I'm with Stef. Mapei Ultraplan renovation screed for wood or over UFH and Mapei Ultraplan Eco on concrete.
In fact I levelled a kitchen floor last night with Eco. Bang on this morning with a 1mm difference end to end now instead of the 10mm before and no massive hump in the centre!! Great stuff

e786c657357221aa3fb7d981c2592741.jpg


Going to give weber SLC a go soon as using their adhesives a lot now
Click to expand...


Bloody hell, sound that. This is around 10mm out. Do you trowel it out to corners? Thinking of investing in a SL rake but cheapest I can find is £100 odd. Bit dear that IMO. Thanks pal
 
For small rooms I use a plastic plasterers float to move it to corners and spread it slightly, but on large areas I have made my own float out of CLS timber & batten. Works a treat. I also use a plastic spiked roller on odd occasions but use it less and less nowadays
 
Plan Tec Tiling said:
For small rooms I use a plastic plasterers float to move it to corners and spread it slightly, but on large areas I have made my own float out of CLS timber & batten. Works a treat. I also use a plastic spiked roller on odd occasions but use it less and less nowadays
Click to expand...

Could you post a photo of your home made float...
Often thought of making one myself as I suffer from severe tightness. ...lol
 
No photo Andy......I chuck it in the skip after each job. It's just a two long lengths of CLS timber screwed together like a broom. Floats large areas of SLC perfectly. Have also used it in a small room without actually entering the room
 
Plan Tec Tiling said:
No photo Andy......I chuck it in the skip after each job. It's just a two long lengths of CLS timber screwed together like a broom. Floats large areas of SLC perfectly. Have also used it in a small room without actually entering the room
Click to expand...
Ok mate I think I get your drift. ..
Maybe I should start a blue peter thread for all our homemade designs ..lol
 
I have found the levelling compounds that go upto 50mm do not run as well as the SLC that can be poured upto 30mm (my guess would be the manufacturers do not pulverise the ingredients into finer particles. So bigger particles do not run as well as the smaller ones). I use Mapei Reno screed everytime, as my supplier doesn't stock the Ultraplan ECO. And I always mix it just shy of the maximum amount of water recommended on the instuctions. Helps to flow, but not too much that it leaves a weak layer on the surface that needs to be sanded back.

If you want it mm perfect use the bays and runners method. Otherwise, I use my laser level to put a few 10mm sq mosaic tiles down on blobs of rapid set. They act as guide to run my 6ft feathered straight edge over, and can get the floor levelled to within british standards easily (3mm).

Avoid allowing air to blow over the poured SLC (so keep as many windows and doors closed as possible), as you do the pour. Once you finish the pour, open them up to allow moisture to disperse and evaporate. Also, shield it from direct sunlight, or it will set like a meringue when you put your spiked roller through it!! I also use an 18" bullnosed trowel to work it into the corners.

I also mix around 3-4 buckets at a time to get it down quicker. I also give each bucket a stir with my gauging trowel before pouring, to help air bubbles escape and to stop it from settling.
 
DJS said:
I have found the levelling compounds that go upto 50mm do not run as well as the SLC that can be poured upto 30mm (my guess would be the manufacturers do not pulverise the ingredients into finer particles. So bigger particles do not run as well as the smaller ones). I use Mapei Reno screed everytime, as my supplier doesn't stock the Ultraplan ECO. And I always mix it just shy of the maximum amount of water recommended on the instuctions. Helps to flow, but not too much that it leaves a weak layer on the surface that needs to be sanded back.

If you want it mm perfect use the bays and runners method. Otherwise, I use my laser level to put a few 10mm sq mosaic tiles down on blobs of rapid set. They act as guide to run my 6ft feathered straight edge over, and can get the floor levelled to within british standards easily (3mm).

Avoid allowing air to blow over the poured SLC (so keep as many windows and doors closed as possible), as you do the pour. Once you finish the pour, open them up to allow moisture to disperse and evaporate. Also, shield it from direct sunlight, or it will set like a meringue when you put your spiked roller through it!! I also use an 18" bullnosed trowel to work it into the corners.

I also mix around 3-4 buckets at a time to get it down quicker. I also give each bucket a stir with my gauging trowel before pouring, to help air bubbles escape and to stop it from settling.
Click to expand...

Allot of information there, thank you mate
 
No worries, I'm getting out of tiling so just want to pass on what I have learnt!

Also, don't forget to prime the floor. Not only does it help bond to the sub-floor, but it stops moisture from being sucked out of the SLC allowing extra setting time for it to find it's own level!
 
DJS said:
No worries, I'm getting out of tiling so just want to pass on what I have learnt!

Also, don't forget to prime the floor. Not only does it help bond to the sub-floor, but it stops moisture from being sucked out of the SLC allowing extra setting time for it to find it's own level!
Click to expand...

Ok thanks, how come your getting out of tiling?
 

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