Advice in triming doors

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Q

quackfly

Hey i was wondering which is the correct power tool for triming the bottom of a door is assuming it needed a substantial piece off. would a jigsaw manage the job or would a circular saw be better?would a circular saw leave a very rough cut?
 
Yea hand saw for me to, time you get power tool set up with extension lead no doubt you could have it cut with a hand saw.
 
Take your pick.. in order of preferance

Plunge Saw (with guide rail)
Rip Saw (with 40t blade)
Hand Saw
Electric Plane
Jigsaw
Fein
Gnasher (From Dennis the Menace)
 
hi mate,

id just use a fine toothed hand saw as mentioned above and finish off with a plane near the pencile line to give it a nice smooth finish...

tip: remember when you are using a plane to start at either end and work inwards because you can split the end of the door if you work to the end of the door when planing

ed.
 
sharp handsaw for me too.:thumbsup:Takes a bit longer.

I also use a snouter(rip saw) and give the sharp edges a rub with sand paper.
 
invest in a door trimmer

saves cutting around architrave too

just whip 8mm of the bottom and slip your tile underneath
 
Hand saw then electric planer for me.
 
Went to an unrelated job last week and the customer asked if I could ease the door as it was catching on his newly fitted carpet. A bit of sandpaper might do it he said!!!
One handsaw, ten minutes and 5mm later, perfect. Lazy carpet fitters!
 
only one door i would use a hand saw and electric plane if it was a few then i would consider circular saw
 
totally depends on the door material, would like to see you cut a solid oak door with a hand saw, plus theres no way on this earth you can cut with a hand saw say if theres less than 4/5mm to take off. like i say depends on door material and the amount of material to be removed.
 
totally depends on the door material, would like to see you cut a solid oak door with a hand saw, plus theres no way on this earth you can cut with a hand saw say if theres less than 4/5mm to take off. like i say depends on door material and the amount of material to be removed.


So how did they cut oak doors before electric tools? :20: :smilewinkgrin:

I have trimmed fire doors with a hand saw no problem and the odd oak door over the last 20 years with no problems at all. :thumbsup:
 
So how did they cut oak doors before electric tools? :20: :smilewinkgrin:

I have trimmed fire doors with a hand saw no problem and the odd oak door over the last 20 years with no problems at all. :thumbsup:

Totally agree Dom, and if we are talking 4 - 5mm then whats wrong with a good hand plane....most people struggle because the plane is no good. AS said it was all done before power tools came along. If i were doing a number of doors then ok for power tools but one or two doors and nothing wrong with a hand job.😳.....ermmmm you know what i mean :smilewinkgrin:
 
So how did they cut oak doors before electric tools? :20: :smilewinkgrin:

I have trimmed fire doors with a hand saw no problem and the odd oak door over the last 20 years with no problems at all. :thumbsup:

True but then hand crafted fixtures would take hours not minutes, i'm not sure he was saying it can't be done more why would you bother with the added time if you didn't need too:thumbsup:
 
Cicular saw with a good blade is my first choice every time (with straight edge/ rail for better cut), electric planer second.

I would only consider a hand saw or jack plane etc as a last resort e.g. no power tools on site or no power etc.

Personaly I feel that there is no need not to use power tools these days unless you pride yourself on using traditional methods. (and can do use them to a good standard!):thumbsup:

I do lots of woodwork and use handsaws and planes etc daily and can tell you that they are essential tools when working with wood but not first choice for doors in most cases.
 
When I am doing restoration work on tradiytional sash windows etc I like to use traditional methods as it makes me feel good and projects a good image to customers.

I have actualy collected many old tools and origonal sorby and marples tools which include bevels, chisels, planes and timber saws with brass feruels etc

Power tools are deffo better for less experienced I beleive

:thumbsup:
 
we arent all master joiners,cabinet makers on here we are ceramic tilers, and on a tilers forum the question was asked the best way to do it, nothing wrong with using a manual hand plane to remove the wood but for small amounts like 4/5mm its very hard to remove with a hand saw. no doubt you will have to use a plane or sander to make the cut true. me personally if there less than 5mm i use an electric planer, more than that i use my rip saw then finished off with the planer. i have used manual hand saw on the new moulded doors as they are easy to cut. often enough we dont charge for these little extras for trimming doors etc so why should we make life hard for our selves. use power tools for easy ness, get job done as easy and as quick as we can. just remember doors these days are quite exspensive ranging upto £150/£200 an internal door, if you break it, you replace it.
 
This Porta-Plane by Porter Cable goes in and out of production, based on demand I guess. If you can find on you'll agree that it is worth every dollar (or pound :thumbsup: ) It's one of the smoothest, most well-made tools that I own. It has a fence on it that tilts so you can set the angle for the bevel needed on the strike side of the door. WHile you are trimming the door, you can tune up the strike and the head on the door and make some extra money and leave the customer with a better working door.


Porter-Cable 9118 Porta-Plane Kit


One other tip is to score a line with a straightedge and a sharp utility knife, and then cut with the saw to just shy of the line-then use a planer or sander to take it to the score line. This will eliminate blowouts on the face of the door.:thumbsup:
 
This Porta-Plane by Porter Cable goes in and out of production, based on demand I guess. If you can find on you'll agree that it is worth every dollar (or pound :thumbsup: ) It's one of the smoothest, most well-made tools that I own. It has a fence on it that tilts so you can set the angle for the bevel needed on the strike side of the door. WHile you are trimming the door, you can tune up the strike and the head on the door and make some extra money and leave the customer with a better working door.


Porter-Cable 9118 Porta-Plane Kit


One other tip is to score a line with a straightedge and a sharp utility knife, and then cut with the saw to just shy of the line-then use a planer or sander to take it to the score line. This will eliminate blowouts on the face of the door.:thumbsup:

good looking machine mate! the full body fence will make it easier for getting a true square cut.
 

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