dot n dab boarding....

[Mr Tiler]

what is the correct method of dot n dab boarding onto plasterd wall... Currently in the process of doing me moms bathroom. Ive moved the bath over and there is a gap either end and a 12.5 mm board either end will sort all my problems... I plan to prime the plaster, board and then tile.... But can I use the adhesive I plan to use for the tiles or do I need drywall adhesive? and if my method is incorrect please let me know cheers.

 

[Qwerty]

Tile adhesive can be used depending on what it is. Not all are suitable

 

[Qwerty]

What are you using?

 

[cam_low]

You could always strap the wall out with 2x1 then board

 

[Mr Tiler]

What would be prefferable then mate? I havnt brought any materials yet so all comments are welcome. Cheers

 

[AliGage]

What is the gap and what is the wall made of?

 

[andy8758]

Hi Mr Tea Bag - I would recommend screwing the board right into a secure background - e.g. brick/block wall or if drywalled onto a framework find the 4x2 timber supporting the existing board and drill through onto that. Consider - existing drywall (plasterboard) may be nailed not screwed - you are adding weight to the existing wall - once tiled will it take the weight? You can still dob and dab to space the board to fill the gap - but screwing the board securely is always safest bet. Good luck Andy C

 

[Mr Tiler]

Hi Ali the walls are plasterd and hollow so my untrained guess is stud wall with boards and then skimmed the work was done by the council a few months back and the grouts already going mouldy and im guessing its because they tiled and grouted same day... The gap each end is 11 mm so 12.5 mm board will let me tile straight off the bath cheers

 

[Mr Tiler]

Thanks Andy is there any info on here about finding those studs as I doubt one of me moms fridge magnets would be any good lol.. And what size screws roughly would be used cheers mate

 

[andy8758]

drill pilot holes - use tape to locate stud either side. keep going until you find all the studs. Alternatively a battery operated stud detector device.

 

[prceramics]

Plasterboard adhesive is a lot cheaper

 

[taffy]

screws can pull out... dot and dab it with drywall adhesive, this way you can plumb it up spot-on where as screwing your just following what's already there, if there is already plasterboard there and if it's not solid you can always rip out them out and sort that with drywall adhesive

 

[Martyn Leeds]

Have we found out yet if the existing plasterboard wall is stud framed or dot & dabbed??

 

[widler]

Andy,what's up with 'nailed' plasterboard ?
Just curious like,as nails have been used for a lot lot longer than screws with no problems !'

 

[andy8758]

screws can pull out... dot and dab it with drywall adhesive, this way you can plumb it up spot-on where as screwing your just following what's already there, if there is already plasterboard there and if it's not solid you can always rip out them out and sort that with drywall adhesive

Screws don't pull out if they are properly fixed and plugged into solid block work or brick work and they are always more secure than dob and dab. Anything fixed to a D & D wall must be adequately screwed into the substrata beneath the drywall and D & D.

 

[andy8758]

Andy,what's up with 'nailed' plasterboard ?
Just curious like,as nails have been used for a lot lot longer than screws with no problems !'

A lot of plasterers will only screw board in place nowadays. Walls are not too critical but there is always additional movement with a nailed plasterboard.

 

[Ollie02948]

Hi mr tea bag. I may not of understood you correctly but you said you have a 11mm gap either end of the bath. Would a 12.5mm board not make it to tight for bath? Would a 9mm board not be better over boarded and screwed to stud work, that way you will have a 2mm seal at ends of bath.

 

[AliGage]

Ash is there still tiles on the wall?

 

[widler]

A lot of plasterers will only screw board in place nowadays. Walls are not too critical but there is always additional movement with a nailed plasterboard.

Sheet really, bugger,hope all them hundreds of houses ive plastered are ok with all that additional movement from putting thousands of clouts in em, now im panicking 🙂 🙂 🙂

 

[AliGage]

Sheet really, bugger,hope all them hundreds of houses ive plastered are ok with all that additional movement from putting thousands of clouts in em, now im panicking 🙂 🙂 🙂

Lol, I think boards are screwed these days for no other reason except speed.

 

[Colour Republic]

Sheet really, bugger,hope all them hundreds of houses ive plastered are ok with all that additional movement from putting thousands of clouts in em, now im panicking 🙂 🙂 🙂

Lol, I think boards are screwed these days for no other reason except speed.

How so Ali? Nailing is much faster IMO


Screwing is the prefered method because of less movement as Neal says. If you've had to repair as many skimmed walls as I have where the plaster has popped over the nail heads you'd agree Wilder 😉

Nailing is hardly a bodge but screwing is much better

 

[widler]

How so Ali? Nailing is much faster IMO


Screwing is the prefered method because of less movement as Neal says. If you've had to repair as many skimmed walls as I have where the plaster has popped over the nail heads you'd agree Wilder 😉

Nailing is hardly a bodge but screwing is much better

if its nailed right CR it should be fine,if you break the paper then the nails will pop as you say,but ive also seen loads of screwed ceilings/partitions with the same problem,folk going at them with the screw guns like a man possessed by the devil himself,going right into the board.
i do screw all mine now though,just cos every job i go on they always get screws,i hate the blinking things though,splinters off them little buggers are horrid 🙂

 

[Peter]

Ring shanks are maybe the best mix of speed and strength.

 

[AliGage]

How so Ali? Nailing is much faster IMO


Screwing is the prefered method because of less movement as Neal says. If you've had to repair as many skimmed walls as I have where the plaster has popped over the nail heads you'd agree Wilder 😉

Nailing is hardly a bodge but screwing is much better

Surely the screwguns are quicker?

 

[andy8758]

Issue 1 - srews vs nails - nails grip in one direction radiating out from their shank. Screws grip in 3 directions up/down and laterally - because of their helicoil. So screws are always going to hold things more secure than nails. Issue 2 - nail guns vs screw guns - time wise I would say nail guns insert more nails per minute than screw guns, though the difference may only really be noticeable on a large surface area. Issue 3 - nail and screw heads "popping" plaster skim - I would say both equally capable of that - try hitting a plaster skimmed drywall with a mallet and watch the nail and screw heads appear! Issue 4 - will nailed drywalls fail quicker than screwed walls? - depends on weight exerted on them - in other words it depends on weight of the tiles - but I would suggest that a fully dry plaster sheet wall will easily hold the weight of 12mm tiles even if drywall is nailed. But if its wet or if its a ceiling - then maybe not - but then if plaster is wet it will fail no matter how its fixed!

 

[Ajax123]

Bag of board addy £4.80..... Bag of tile addy £11 ..... Now what was the question again?

 

[Ajax123]

How so Ali? Nailing is much faster IMO


Screwing is the prefered method because of less movement as Neal says. If you've had to repair as many skimmed walls as I have where the plaster has popped over the nail heads you'd agree Wilder 😉

Nailing is hardly a bodge but screwing is much better

Screws tend to be used as they can b loaded in a machine and there is a lot of metal stud used these days and screws offer a more solid fixing than clouts. Not sure if ou can get a clout nail gun??

 

[Colour Republic]

Bag of board addy £4.80..... Bag of tile addy £11 ..... Now what was the question again?

:lol::lol:

what is the correct method of dot n dab boarding onto plasterd wall... Currently in the process of doing me moms bathroom. Ive moved the bath over and there is a gap either end and a 12.5 mm board either end will sort all my problems... I plan to prime the plaster, board and then tile.... But can I use the adhesive I plan to use for the tiles or do I need drywall adhesive? and if my method is incorrect please let me know cheers.

To be fair Alan the important question was never asked and that is how he plans to get over the 12.5m lip he would create in the wall at either end of the bath after fixing plasterboard? Whacking great big tile trim? or now having to board out the rest of the walls to suit? and then possible issues with doors if on the same wall

 

[Artisan998]

A picture of the job might have shortened this thread by a couple of pages..............:8:. Screws over nails..................