Newly drylined and skimmed bathroom

P

pandabear

It's my first post here so a big Hi to all of you!

I am looking for a little advice, we are about to start a bathroom install in a loft conversion which has been drylined. The external wall was dot and dabbed with the internals and ceiling screwed in place. The room has been skimmed over the past week.

So the question is, is there a recommended time after skimming that we should wait before tiling the walls? It is likely be at least two weeks after the skim before the bath and pan connector are in situ, are we able to start tiling immediately afterwards?

Your advice is most welcome!

Thanks in advance


PB
 
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a couple of weeks this time of year will be fine.
what tiles are you using? just asking because you are tiling onto skimmed boards. just thinking of the weight thats all.
 
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As above, just to add un-skimmed plasterboard will take more weight than skim, make sure you prime with SBR not PVA. Good luck.:thumbsup:
 
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if its plastered, bs say 28 days, un plastered (dot & dabbed ) 10 days and screwed , you can fix to aslong as they have used proper support
 
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british gyspum recommend screwing plasterboards when fixing large format or stone to dot and dabbed plasterboards. allow the adhesive to dry and then screw through the dots and 5 per meter. they also recommend 7-10 days for the board adhesive to dry and set prior to tiling.
seems like a day doesnt go by without something changing in this industry, its getting hard keeping up!!
 
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TF Ed said:
british gyspum recommend screwing plasterboards when fixing large format or stone to dot and dabbed plasterboards. allow the adhesive to dry and then screw through the dots and 5 per meter. they also recommend 7-10 days for the board adhesive to dry and set prior to tiling.
seems like a day doesnt go by without something changing in this industry, its getting hard keeping up!!
Click to expand...

Thats a new one on me Ed....
 
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They also recommend 1 bag of dry line adhesive for 1 8x4 board , fixed with 12 dabs and 12 screws hence the phrase dot and dab , dots Being screws and dabs being adhesive
 
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i like your style jason. lots of problems waiting to happen regarding tiling on dabbed boards!! many people i see dont but enough dabs behind the board and along the ceiling lines etc..anyway, the more we share the more we learn.
 
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But not a bag a board Ed...and 12 screws for each board, if the tiles are that heavy they should'nt be fixed to gypsum anyway for heavans sake...
 
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sorry beam when i said i like your style, i meant the belt and braces approach.
to be fair i always thought it was 8 per board, 3 down the side and 2 down the middle so so to speak as for a bag per board, i was never aware of that myself but i am aware that people dont run a full line around the perimeter of windows, sockets, ceiling lines and internal angles..
 
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Well you learn something everyday. I thought dot was the adhesive and dab was the action of dabbing it into plumb with a straight edge!!! haha - Not sure why though, nobody's ever actually explained that - I just seemed to have that in my head for some reason.

A whole bag per board, and then 12 screws too? Makes you wonder why we don't just render it! Though plasterboard was the 'quick and easy option'!
 
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Screwing is somethink I'v heard recently for standard boards,thermal boards are a different issue, extra dabs should be applied where fixings, sinks, radiators etc are being fixed/screwed to the walls...if the screws heads break the surface on the paper facing they are next to useless anyway....I learnt with British Gypsum in 1999 perhaps I should be asking for my money back I've been doing wrong all these years.
 
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I thought the same as you Dan. The dot and dab bit.
If a board required a stronger fixing (i.e screws) i'd build a timber frame on the block work and secure the boards.
 
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Never even heard of screwing dot and dabbing, except maybe thermal. And sorry jason 🙂 dot and dab is called dot and dab cos of the dots of addy and dabbing down with your level/featheredge.
Has anybody on here tried to rip of dot and dabbing, if that can't hold upto, is it 32kg m2 for unskimmed? Then it aint done right.
And its dabs down each end, about 6" apart,(a bit like scews in a party wall) then same down middle,dabs across skirting and the top, and some around sockets so the board dont pull in when screwed. Well thats how we have done it since the 80s 🙂 🙂


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quick update on this. i rang british gypsum regarding the screwing of boards and they now claim they only recommend mechanical fixing for thermal boards. they now stick to their origional claim that if you are fixing stone tiles to their plasterboards, then an extra horizontal bead of adhesive should be placed about mid height for extra strength.
ffs it comes to something when bg have tech reps giving contrasting advice.

ps dot and dab is a term that goes back a while. its not dots of adhesive and dabbing the boards. its easy to think that but thats not where the term comes from

dots are the same dots that are used to form screeds when doing internal rendering
the dots are set in adhesive and plumbed up using a straight edge and level. this is done at either end of the room and inbetween so it basically forms a grid on the wall..

tha dabs where 'dabs' of gyspum adhesive that where placed on the wall and then the baords where pressed into the dabs untill the touched the dots. when the baords touched the dots, then you knew the boards would be plumb, straight and perfectly in line.. old school way of forming a perfect wall. you use this method in rendering and dryling...

for rendering, its called....'plumb , dot and screed' the rolls royce of forming screeds
for drylining, its called, 'dot and dab'

hope this helps ;0)
 
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TF Ed said:
quick update on this. i rang british gypsum regarding the screwing of boards and they now claim they only recommend mechanical fixing for thermal boards. they now stick to their origional claim that if you are fixing stone tiles to their plasterboards, then an extra horizontal bead of adhesive should be placed about mid height for extra strength.
ffs it comes to something when bg have tech reps giving contrasting advice.

ps dot and dab is a term that goes back a while. its not dots of adhesive and dabbing the boards. its easy to think that but thats not where the term comes from

dots are the same dots that are used to form screeds when doing internal rendering
the dots are set in adhesive and plumbed up using a straight edge and level. this is done at either end of the room and inbetween so it basically forms a grid on the wall..

tha dabs where 'dabs' of gyspum adhesive that where placed on the wall and then the baords where pressed into the dabs untill the touched the dots. when then touched the dots, then you knew the baords would be plumb, straight and perfectly in line.. old school way of forming a perfect wall. you use this method in rendering and dryling...

for rendering, its called....'plumb , dot and screed' the rolls royce of forming screeds
for drylining, its called, 'dot and dab'

hope this helps ;0)
Click to expand...
to be fair to moi,i was stating what 'dot and dabbing' refers to for,erm dot and dabbing plasterboards :smilewinkgrin: i have never heard the word dotting used for the use of screws :drool5:

and the other bit you wrote,we used to form screeds when doing any internal roughing,always screed then fill in,easy pesy to those who know how.

gotta admit though,ive never screeded a wall before drylining,bit over kill,dotting and screeding then drylining over it:wacky:
 
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Music to my ears Ed, thats the way I was taught to render, and still the method I use on slc or sand and cement screeds.:thumbsup:
 
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Thanks Ed top post mate ,I remember talking to plasterers about plumb and dot years ago and how good plasterers didnt need "grounds" to work off of as they could form their own , I also worked with tilers who would set level dots around a floor with a water level and guage stick then screed the floor out I have to rely on battens as I dont screed often enough to gain the experience to do it without them
 
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Newly drylined and skimmed bathroom
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Bathroom Tiling Advice
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