Concrete to floorboard level help

[M D HUGHES]

Hi guys, I know your gunna give me an answer and refresh my memory, so thanks in advance.
I've got a floor to tile, half concrete (obviously ext.) and half floorboard. Now I'm gunna need to ply out the boarding thats gunna give me a 12mm lip from the concrete. Now you can see where I'm at. I know its gunna be an easy way to get over this so please send some knowledge this way.
Many thanks.

 

[Leatherface]

You could use "No More Ply" - it's a cement based board, only 6mm thick. Quite expensive though, about £8.50 for a 1200 x 60 sheet. It is rigid & very suitable for over-boarding. Then self level the concrete to meet.

 

[M D HUGHES]

How do you attach the 'no more ply'? Sounds a bit pricey as well to cover a large area. Probably be better off to ply out the concrete as well if that was the method, but I'm sure that a pretty standard way of doing this is just escaping my brain.
Cheers!

 

[Leatherface]

Cheaper isn't always better.
The no more ply can be screwed down - special screws.
Not sure about plying concrete - have never done that before - gonna be a pain in the arse, me thinks.

 

[Concept PHT]

You can ply the concrete, using a good SDS drill and bit, rawplugs and screws. Time consuming but do-able. I did it in a conservatory to bring the floor level to the front room before laying UFH and marble tiles. 25m/s worth of it....... 🙂

 

[Leatherface]

Thanks for the tip - that is how I would have done it, wasn't sure if it was ok.
Cheers

 

[M D HUGHES]

What would be the pro's and con's of each method, apart from time and mess. Money against quality etc.
I've just looked into leatherfaces method and seems to be the methos I was wanting but is expensive.
Any overall downfall of plying concrete once the job is done.
I really want to do the best job.
I've never used self levelling compound to bring the no more ply up to level and not sure if this would be a time to practice,o is it a piece of ****?
More help much appreciated!

 

[Leatherface]

The no more ply method would deff be the quickest. And may even be similar in price to the other.
You would have to weigh up the following :
Method 1 - cost of no more ply / labour to screw down to floorboards - easy / self leveller required
Method 2 - cost of plywood to go over both wood floor and concrete / labour required to screw & plug into concrete / self leveller required

Self levelling is easy, good mechanical mixer required to ensure no lumps. Use correct amount of water as specified per bag. Use a good quality self leveller. I always use Mapei or Mira X Plan.

Work it out and give both prices to the customer. Let them decide.

 

[Concept PHT]

best way to learn if unsure is buy a bag of SLC and have a practice in your own time. Make sure you have a nice big floor trowel for the big areas. Don't let the customer convince you that SLC is the miracle cure for floors that run off. Its not for that. Its for slight lumps and bumps in floors, to get them smooth for tiling / flooring.

If you are going to use SLC on wood, make sure the wood is primed first, and you use a flexible type of SLC.

 

[M D HUGHES]

cheers lads, will let you knowwhat happens! any more stuff would be good, keepit coming!!

 

[Traxman]

You could secure the floorboards with screws at 15mm centres then possibly use ditra matting. Give Schluter systems a call I am sure they can advise.

 

[Leatherface]

best way to learn if unsure is buy a bag of SLC and have a practice in your own time. Make sure you have a nice big floor trowel for the big areas. Don't let the customer convince you that SLC is the miracle cure for floors that run off. Its not for that. Its for slight lumps and bumps in floors, to get them smooth for tiling / flooring.

If you are going to use SLC on wood, make sure the wood is primed first, and you use a flexible type of SLC.

Sorry mate - don't necessarily agree on that one ( the only for slight lumps & bumps bit )- will check my facts , but Mapei do a self levelling compounfd that levels up to either 20 or 30mm in one application.
Mix it correctly with right amount of water, spread it around a bit & let it find its own level. Table top smooth every time. Have levelled some really manky floors that run off with great results.
The end product means that you have to spend less money on adhesive & less time tring to bed out to get a nice finish.
I have also heard that Mira X Plan is even better , although not tried it yet - this can be delivered anywhere in uk for around £18.00 a bag.
Both flexi & rapid setting.

 

[wivers]

Just tell the customer to cut 12 mm off of one of their legs.

 

[Leatherface]

Just tell the customer to cut 12 mm off of one of their legs.

I'll cut off both your legs with my chainsaw instead !!!

 

[wivers]

This tiling lark make s people very violent! 😛

 

[Concept PHT]

I always think that if the SLC is to thick, it will start to crack / shrink.

If a floor needs to have 20-30mm down before tiling, then a sand/cement screed needs to be considered. A nice 4:1 damp mix feathered off and devil floated.

Using SLC to cover large areas at this depth will cost a fortune. 😛

 

[Leatherface]

I always think that if the SLC is to thick, it will start to crack / shrink.

If a floor needs to have 20-30mm down before tiling, then a sand/cement screed needs to be considered. A nice 4:1 damp mix feathered off and devil floated.

Using SLC to cover large areas at this depth will cost a fortune. 😛

IT'S STILL AN OPTION - iF YOU CAN PERSUADE THE CUSTOMER TOTHAT IS NECESSARY & THEY ARE WILLING TO PAY FOR IT.
WILL NOT SHRINK OR CRACK IF YOU ADHERE TO SPEC

 

[Concept PHT]

Not what I have seen pal.

 

[calculator]

Just don,t believe my luck got the same problem wooden floor/concrete floor cheers for some great answers