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Tips on cleaning grout

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Handyeire

In all the years ive been working not once have i done a job to clean grout lines on floor tiles but as they aul saying goes, theres a first for everything. TBH, i was offered them jobs before but with the amount of work i had on, i just never touched it and stuck to what i know best. Now that things are really slow, theres 2 customers needing grout cleaned so i guess ill have to start sometime doing this work. One thing about it thou, she phoned 3 other tilers before me and all 3 didnt get back to her so i guess they arent interested in this kind of work.

Ive a fair idea how to do it but just thought id post here to see if theres any tips that would leave a better job and whats bst to use. Both grout lines are cream and are stained with foot traffic, previous tilers didnt seal grout lines so i guess that stain was always going to happen sooner rather than later.
 
Speak to LithofinBob, he'll point you in the right direction. Wexa and Power Clean are both outstanding products imo.
 
Hi, these are great opportunities to infill work, plus keep a tie with your client for further tiling.

Most important thing is what tile surrounds the grout, you are never just cleaning the grout you are restoring/ cleaning the whole floor area. Secondly test- and test again.

Never tell/ promise the client you will get the grout perfectly clean as if cementisiouse they don't all come fully back, you will always get them to best you can, specially if not been sealed previously .you could get into re colouring if they don't clean back ltp do great product for this I'm sure as do others .or re grout if req- nightmare but extra work

In brief.

If these are natural stone tiles, key is to test your products- (as rich )I use wexa for deep clean or power clean if lighter contamination. If there is surface finishes you will be stripping- depending if you want to get into this this far.

Key for me then on naturals is drying times- I run off 5-7 days before impregnating, then you can re- impreg. These are my personal dry times ( I can here a few laughs on this lol)

Porcalain; I use / test lithofin intensive cleaner, this tackles most deep staining ( tile and grout) I leave the floors 1-2 days or until grout is fully dry then use a grout protector or if tiles will take a impreg use protective impregnator over whole floor.

Ceramics; you can use/ test wexa from us- ceramic clean also for salt / water marks, dry grout ( for me 2 days to release all moisture )and use a grout protector after.

Hope the brief bit will help ( is a lot more involved than just above) to start you can mail me each project with pics or on here and we can put a plan together for each stage, no prob
Will always need to know tile to help.
 
Don't know why tilers shy away from this kind of work. There can be good money made cleaning and refurbing floors. Customers are especially pleased in my experience with original Victorian floors. Lots of elbow grease, combined with the right products and time and jobs a good 'un!
 
I do a few clean up jobs and I've had extra tiling work and recommendations to others through it so never rule this kind of work out and if using the right products it's actually quite easy......
 
Done lots of regrouting, if you,ve the right tools again it's fairly easy I find
 
A few years ago I attended a course which included cleaning and resealing stone tiling. The thing that amazed me was that the people that just did that charged more/day than I was charging for fixing and grouting them! It may be worth getting skilled/knowledgeable in this field if there is little competition in your area.
 
Do folk charge a day rate for cleaning/re-grouting work. Been thinking of attending a tile/stone restoration course, anyone know of a good place to attend..
Cheers
 
There a few, restoration courses from others around the country,( depending on what products you use), ranging from full use of machines and purley discusion .We have a day course in Alresford with me, which is more a lithofin discussion / run through and demo day, do 4-5 a year , but can put extra ones on , i can cover , tiling install ( as from a cleaning ,protecting/ sealing or problem solving view) , restoration , clean backs and reseals ,I don't have floors down ( yet) so I can't demo machines. I love doing these, as I get as much back from people who attend, If you guys wanted a 2-3 day courses they are out there from others, Prices will vary for those
If anyone could ever get a few people together ,say at a cdt or one of our other outlets , we could perhaps put something on ,more local to have a morning/ afternoon runthrough, so people didn't have to travel to me.
Contact for my day , on the web
 
Hi, these are great opportunities to infill work, plus keep a tie with your client for further tiling.

Most important thing is what tile surrounds the grout, you are never just cleaning the grout you are restoring/ cleaning the whole floor area. Secondly test- and test again.

Never tell/ promise the client you will get the grout perfectly clean as if cementisiouse they don't all come fully back, you will always get them to best you can, specially if not been sealed previously .you could get into re colouring if they don't clean back ltp do great product for this I'm sure as do others .or re grout if req- nightmare but extra work

In brief.

If these are natural stone tiles, key is to test your products- (as rich )I use wexa for deep clean or power clean if lighter contamination. If there is surface finishes you will be stripping- depending if you want to get into this this far.

Key for me then on naturals is drying times- I run off 5-7 days before impregnating, then you can re- impreg. These are my personal dry times ( I can here a few laughs on this lol)

Porcalain; I use / test lithofin intensive cleaner, this tackles most deep staining ( tile and grout) I leave the floors 1-2 days or until grout is fully dry then use a grout protector or if tiles will take a impreg use protective impregnator over whole floor.

Ceramics; you can use/ test wexa from us- ceramic clean also for salt / water marks, dry grout ( for me 2 days to release all moisture )and use a grout protector after.

Hope the brief bit will help ( is a lot more involved than just above) to start you can mail me each project with pics or on here and we can put a plan together for each stage, no prob
Will always need to know tile to help.

Whoa!!!!!! Did I just see @Lithofin BOB suggest using LTP?
Sorry to hijack @Handyeire but what will remove a couple of small patches of mildew from the marble tiles in my wet room floor?
 
There a few, restoration courses from others around the country,( depending on what products you use), ranging from full use of machines and purley discusion .We have a day course in Alresford with me, which is more a lithofin discussion / run through and demo day, do 4-5 a year , but can put extra ones on , i can cover , tiling install ( as from a cleaning ,protecting/ sealing or problem solving view) , restoration , clean backs and reseals ,I don't have floors down ( yet) so I can't demo machines. I love doing these, as I get as much back from people who attend, If you guys wanted a 2-3 day courses they are out there from others, Prices will vary for those
If anyone could ever get a few people together ,say at a cdt or one of our other outlets , we could perhaps put something on ,more local to have a morning/ afternoon runthrough, so people didn't have to travel to me.
Contact for my day , on the web
Ooow only an hour from me.
thinking-023.GIF
 
Morris - known him for over 30 years in various sales positions and just met him again 12 months ago at a CTD trade fair. Great bloke.
 

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