Tiling onto Plywood

[Corky]

Hi All, I was looking for the intro threads and got caught up with this read .I dont know a lot about the tiling and signed up for some tips .But I think the think the thing about cement/cement based material coming into contact with gypsum products is that if any moisture through steam ,wetting etc develops in the contact joint ennigmite (spelling could be wrong) causes the joint to fail .probably doesnt matter here with only the paper/rapid touching.But if there ever was a falure and some hassle afterwards wouldnt all gypsum back up be null and void .Now your all gonna say (who the **** does Corky think he is the wiseass ).

 

[Perry]

they all have problems now and again but does seem they have more than most

 

[Droopy]

Ready in 1 hr ???? dear me

What is the problem Gaz?

 

[DHTiling]

I have just read up on gypsum plasters and boards...and i thought modern day plasters were cement based..it appears drew is right on this account..my hat goes off to you mate on this point.....

But can we please keep this thread civil and freindly please lads....

 

[Droopy]

I have just read up on gypsum plasters and boards...and i thought modern day plasters were cement based..it appears drew is right on this account..my hat goes off to you mate on this point.....

But can we please keep this thread civil and freindly please lads....

You can actually smell the difference when you use gypsum based addy.

I think that I have been very civil, so far...:yes:

 

[White Room]

:huh2:
Why not just use plasterboard, stuck with drywall addy?

Would'nt last long on the bathroom floor:lol:

 

[Droopy]

Would'nt last long on the bathroom floor:lol:

That, I agree with.

 

[Perry]

Dave slip of your finger was ment to meen your finger as in cemet based not ment be rude to Drew :grouphug:

 

[DHTiling]

[quote

I think that I have been very civil, so far...:yes:[/quote]


that was more of a precaution than an accusation drew mate...:lol:

 

[Droopy]

that was more of a precaution than an accusation drew mate...:lol:

Have we met? :lol:

 

[Perry]

Drew i think you would know :lol:

 

[Droopy]

Ready in 1 hr ???? dear me

Yes, ready in 1 hour.
This is an occupation...livelyhood...................not a hobby..............:yawn:

 

[GazTech]

Truly, remarkable..where does the water..mixed with the powder...escape?

 

[Droopy]

Truly, remarkable..where does the water..mixed with the powder...escape?

Just as with cement based addy, it doesn't dry as such, it is a chemical reaction that makes it set.
Just that with gypsum addy, the reaction is that bit quicker.

 

[GazTech]

Anwer the Question Drew...Where does the water, we put into the powder go ?

 

[Droopy]

Anwer the Question Drew...Where does the water, we put into the powder go ?

I did.
Just like it does with cement based addy, it acts as the catalyst for a chemical reaction. it does NOT "dry out", it cures. And this stuff cures fast.
I suppose you also think that Concrete sets when all the water somehow dries up?

Why don't you just admit you were wrong, instead of scrapping the bottom of the barrel for reasons to still say you are right?

 

[GazTech]

A decent proportion of water, we must agree does soak into the substances it makes contact with....it dosn't magically disappear, it defies laws of chemistry,if fast setting adhesives or plasters are used the water content needs to evaporate/dissipate, before totally cured.....so to grout them before proper set time, is to trap unwanted moisture......Gaz

 

[Perry]

are talking about tiling on plaster or "paper" and tiling with rapid adhesives or both :whatchutalkingabout Drew it may be a usfull product ideal for plasterboard but your not tiling to plaster with plasterboard which is my point

 

[grumpygrouter]

I did.
Just like it does with cement based addy, it acts as the catalyst for a chemical reaction. it does NOT "dry out", it cures. And this stuff cures fast.
I suppose you also think that Concrete sets when all the water somehow dries up?

Why don't you just admit you were wrong, instead of scrapping the bottom of the barrel for reasons to still say you are right?

Suppose the easiest way to answer this question is to put some of the stuff on a plaster wall and scrape it off straight way. If it leaves a stain on te wall as I suspect it would than water will disipate into the substrate to a certain extent, chemical reaction or not!

This comes along the lines of a previous thread about removing tiles from plasterboard walls. If the tiles and adhesive were only stuck to the paper lining, why does it take the plaster with it when you take the tiles off? Seems to me the slower adhesive sets - either by reaction or dispersion - the more likely that plasterboard will come away with the tile. This is an observation based admittedly on my very short experience of tiling. I would be interested in other peoples opinions and experiences.

Grumpy

 

[CLAYS TILES]

it sounds to me like a few hot heads on here!
coooooooooool down boys!

 

[devonmark]

You should look at using Nicobond Unique when tiling onto plaster, or plasterboard. It's gypsum based, so no need to worry about any reactions.
It also sets full in 1 hour.

this stuff could be handy....have you used it much, if so...how have you found it..Mark.

 

[wayne]

i use it all the time but its not recommended for wet areas. i spoke to the main rep at a trade evening and he said it will be ok for domestic showers. great gear to use and holds large tiles up without battens. but beware you have to be pretty fast with it.

 

[james]

so whats the working time on unique? whats the cost as well?

 

[Droopy]

A decent proportion of water, we must agree does soak into the substances it makes contact with....it dosn't magically disappear, it defies laws of chemistry,if fast setting adhesives or plasters are used the water content needs to evaporate/dissipate, before totally cured.....so to grout them before proper set time, is to trap unwanted moisture......Gaz

I honestly do not know why you seem to have a problem wth this.
How long did you used to wait before grouting floors you laid with Bal Rapid set, that says it can be grouted after 2 hours?
Did you wait until that was 100% cured, or set enough, according to manufactures spec's, to grout?

This stuff sets fast. The makers, ho have no doubt spent a fortune developing it, say it can be grouted an hour. I think they know far more about it than you or I.

I will continue to follow their advice, and my experience.
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this stuff could be handy....have you used it much, if so...how have you found it..Mark.

I use it pretty often. It is great to work with. Much easier to trowel onto walls than cement based addy.
You have about 40 minutes working time with it, but you need to keep the bucket you mix in clean.
If you do not, the mix goes off quicker, because the addy that has already started to go off causes the new mix to go off faster than it should. Nothing to do with evaporation, Gaz.
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so whats the working time on unique? whats the cost as well?

As I said above, around 40-60 mins, but only if you keep your bucket clean of old mixes.

I pay just under a tenner for a 15kg bag.
One thing I will say, it does not cover as much as the 10-15sqm they claim.
I would say more like 6-8sqm per bag.
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i use it all the time but its not recommended for wet areas. i spoke to the main rep at a trade evening and he said it will be ok for domestic showers. great gear to use and holds large tiles up without battens. but beware you have to be pretty fast with it.

I was told the same, fine for domestic showers.
I use their Tilers Grout too, which is waterproof, not just water resistant. And if it's a power shower I add a bit of Enhancer 2002 just to be safe.

 

[GazTech]

I did have times Drew where I would grout floors after fixing with rapid too early,this became a problem with the grout being tainted and drying patchy in colour, I wouldn't grout as soon as the tiles stopped moving I would grout the following day..but I would always err on the cautious side...it's in my nature...never one to fly in and out, if the job needed more time I would spend it,the next job would always be there ready for when I was.......Gaz

 

[Droopy]

I did have times Drew where I would grout floors after fixing with rapid too early,this became a problem with the grout being tainted and drying patchy in colour, I wouldn't grout as soon as the tiles stopped moving I would grout the following day..but I would always err on the cautious side...it's in my nature...never one to fly in and out, if the job needed more time I would spend it,the next job would always be there ready for when I was.......Gaz

Kinda defeats the purpose of using Rapid set then.
Why didn't you use the same cauton when using cement based addy to fix and fix to plasterboard?:huh2:

 

[GazTech]

Kinda defeats the purpose of using Rapid set then.
Why didn't you use the same cauton when using cement based addy to fix and fix to plasterboard?:huh2:

I always prime the walls, wet the back of the plasterboard before dotting out and fixing.The face is then ready to tile when board is set,prime the face for cement based,and not for tub gear.Rapid set for me , had the sole purpose of enabling people to walk over the floor sooner than slow set,or to enable you to fix tiles onto a batten to support tiles above, and then remove in faster time span complete tiling below....Gaz

 

[Droopy]

I always prime the walls, wet the back of the plasterboard before dotting out and fixing.The face is then ready to tile when board is set,prime the face for cement based,and not for tub gear.Rapid set for me , had the sole purpose of enabling people to walk over the floor sooner than slow set,or to enable you to fix tiles onto a batten to support tiles above, and then remove in faster time span complete tiling below....Gaz

So do you think all these manufacturers are wrong when they say ,
"grout after 1/2/3 hours" ?

Or is it just Nicobond Unique you have a problem with?

 

[DHTiling]

I think genuine points have been mentioned on both behalfs here lads so can we let this drop now please...many thanks......

 

[GazTech]

So do you think all these manufacturers are wrong when they say ,
"grout after 1/2/3 hours" ?

Or is it just Nicobond Unique you have a problem with?

They don't cause me a problem at all, I always check any adhesive prior to grouting throught the joints,just to make sure it isn't still green....It's not to say that I'm right and they are wrong..just my past experience and what I am personally comfortable with, as long as you follow instructions layed down by manufacturer,then if things go wrong..there is no doubt about it.Everone develops there own style and constantly use methods they know work for them...can't knock that....Gaz

 

[Droopy]

They don't cause me a problem at all, I always check any adhesive prior to grouting throught the joints,just to make sure it isn't still green....It's not to say that I'm right and they are wrong..just my past experience and what I am personally comfortable with, as long as you follow instructions layed down by manufacturer,then if things go wrong..there is no doubt about it.Everone develops there own style and constantly use methods they know work for them...can't knock that....Gaz

Fairynuff
But you should try Unique before you knock that, IMO.
----

I think genuine points have been mentioned on both behalfs here lads so can we let this drop now please...many thanks......

Okay, bosss:lol: