R
renzema
Hi all - greeting from Sweden.
I'm working on a project right now - rebuilding my "uteroom" - an outdoor room that we use for 1-3 seasons. The room itself is dry - walls on all four sides and a roof - One wall is the back of our house, one wall is our neighbor's uterum, one wall is freestanding (we live in a row house and we are the last house in the block, one wall is a giant sliding door).
The room itself is 2.6x5.5 meters
It used to be a one-season room, but I am trying to turn it into a three season. I've rebuilt the roof with polycarbonite, and insulated doors are the agenda for next year (currently they are single pane glass). The heating will be turned on just a few hours a day so that we can have dinner out there, so I am looking to get a fairly quick response floor, but overall heating costs are not that much of a concern. I've bought an 1800w wire for 13 sq m, so 140w/sq m, with a DeviTouch thermostat
As the weather now starts to turn colder, it is time to get the floor down.
Today there is concrete pavers (circa 50x30) as the base layer. They previous owners then put down a pressure treated wood floor. There are crossbeams that are approximate 42 cm apart from each other, then 12x3 wood as the surface layer.
My plan is as follows...
Pull up the 12x3. Put cellplast (not sure what this is called in the UK - It's the cheap styrofoam-type insulation - Maybe you call this EPS?) in between the crossbeams (which are circa 4cm high). This will provide a base layer of insulation. I would like to keep these cross-beams because they are already leveled.
On top of the cross-beams, use 18mm roofing plywood (spruce).
On top of the plywood, use an extruded polystyrene - I'm currently thinking Jackon bathroom, in 10 mm depth. Jackon is a fiberglass-coated polystyrene. 10mm is 3.2kg/sqm item. I am assuming that this will be the primary insulation barrier and since it is a non-organic material, it should be form-stable to lay tiles on.
On top of this layer, put down the waterproofing (paint-on)
On top of the waterproofing, down goes the screed and heating element. The wire that I bought has a max operating temperature of 80 degrees C, and the polystyrene has a max temperature of 75 degrees, but I am thinking that the screed will absorb a bit of heat and the floor should never really get that hot.
On top of the screed goes the adhesive and tiles (frost-safe, rated for outdoor use and heated flooring applications).
So this is what the final looks like:
Tiles --> Adhesive --> Screed (with heating element) --> Waterproofing --> Extruded Polystyrene (1cm) --> Plywood (18mm) --> Support Trusses (pressure treated) interlaced with styrofoam) --> Concrete Pavers --> Ground.
Does this sound like a plan? What am I missing? Am I safe with the 75 degree Polystyrene with 80 degree wire?
Thanks for all ideas!
Josh
I'm working on a project right now - rebuilding my "uteroom" - an outdoor room that we use for 1-3 seasons. The room itself is dry - walls on all four sides and a roof - One wall is the back of our house, one wall is our neighbor's uterum, one wall is freestanding (we live in a row house and we are the last house in the block, one wall is a giant sliding door).
The room itself is 2.6x5.5 meters
It used to be a one-season room, but I am trying to turn it into a three season. I've rebuilt the roof with polycarbonite, and insulated doors are the agenda for next year (currently they are single pane glass). The heating will be turned on just a few hours a day so that we can have dinner out there, so I am looking to get a fairly quick response floor, but overall heating costs are not that much of a concern. I've bought an 1800w wire for 13 sq m, so 140w/sq m, with a DeviTouch thermostat
As the weather now starts to turn colder, it is time to get the floor down.
Today there is concrete pavers (circa 50x30) as the base layer. They previous owners then put down a pressure treated wood floor. There are crossbeams that are approximate 42 cm apart from each other, then 12x3 wood as the surface layer.
My plan is as follows...
Pull up the 12x3. Put cellplast (not sure what this is called in the UK - It's the cheap styrofoam-type insulation - Maybe you call this EPS?) in between the crossbeams (which are circa 4cm high). This will provide a base layer of insulation. I would like to keep these cross-beams because they are already leveled.
On top of the cross-beams, use 18mm roofing plywood (spruce).
On top of the plywood, use an extruded polystyrene - I'm currently thinking Jackon bathroom, in 10 mm depth. Jackon is a fiberglass-coated polystyrene. 10mm is 3.2kg/sqm item. I am assuming that this will be the primary insulation barrier and since it is a non-organic material, it should be form-stable to lay tiles on.
On top of this layer, put down the waterproofing (paint-on)
On top of the waterproofing, down goes the screed and heating element. The wire that I bought has a max operating temperature of 80 degrees C, and the polystyrene has a max temperature of 75 degrees, but I am thinking that the screed will absorb a bit of heat and the floor should never really get that hot.
On top of the screed goes the adhesive and tiles (frost-safe, rated for outdoor use and heated flooring applications).
So this is what the final looks like:
Tiles --> Adhesive --> Screed (with heating element) --> Waterproofing --> Extruded Polystyrene (1cm) --> Plywood (18mm) --> Support Trusses (pressure treated) interlaced with styrofoam) --> Concrete Pavers --> Ground.
Does this sound like a plan? What am I missing? Am I safe with the 75 degree Polystyrene with 80 degree wire?
Thanks for all ideas!
Josh
