Repairing Plaster Before Tiles

[Mr T]

I don't think so mate but the board needs to be primed before tiling.... but listen to someone else not me ok im not a pro lol

 

[AliGage]

yeh the render looks sound but theres holes in the plaster that surely need to be filled before boarding?

The idea of boarding over mate is to provide a flat finishable surface more swiftly and quickly than patch repair and plaster.
I can only see one of "hole" and it wouldn't worry me.

Many thanks for the advice. Does the render need to be prep before

Im not going to swear on the forum but. The render may/will need priming before applying your board adhesive. Sod it ill say it, most manufacturers would probably recommend PVA for this. See what is recommended on the adhesive you purchase.
I would look to remove the top coat of plaster though as i said before. Better safe than sorry if some of it's blown. Would recommend taper edged board rather than square edge. You can then fill the joins yourself and it is said you can paint straight to it rather than skimming. If painting that wall is the route you opt for.
Don't push lie painting though. Two or three undercoats and a bathrooms suitable paint for the finish coat(s)

 

[widler]

Lads its not render, its sand lime mortar, its sandy aint it? It crumbles and is sandy to the touch,it prob has horse hair in too . Pls FFS sake don't just pva it and skim it,knock it off and dryline it,will be a better job, take 2 bloody hours longer and last 20 years longer if you dry line it.
Thankyou
Craig

 

[AliGage]

I maybe mixing my posts up but was under the impression this was a new build?

 

[widler]

No mate, thats either a ex council or old terrace,no way is it new build (i hope 🙂 )

 

[AliGage]

Ah was on the mobile on the train when i was posting earlier so never went back and looked again at the picture.
Chris. Remove back to the brick and then dry line. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[chrisb1357]

Hi all

I appreciate your help very much on here and its good to get peoples views. I am unable to remove back to the breeze block as the council only approved the removal of the skim. Not sure where to go from here to be honest.

Here are the latest pics

Ah was on the mobile on the train when i was posting earlier so never went back and looked again at the picture.
Chris. Remove back to the brick and then dry line. Sorry for the confusion.

 

[Mr T]

why don't u get the council to come out and do it?

 

[chrisb1357]

Looking around 6 months and they will only skim over that

 

[AliGage]

Is that door casing right up at the wall as well?

 

[White Room]

you could try and stabalize the surface with some very thin sbr so it soaks well into the render....

 

[chrisb1357]

Hi

Yes the door frame is very near to that wall as you can see. I think when the door passes the wall on closing its nearest point is around 2.5cm (25mm) from the wall to the edge of the door.

I am just going to hold my head in my hands :-(

Chris

 

[AliGage]

In that case. I think WB might be guiding yet down the right route. Even if yet went back to brick you would be adding depth by boarding i reckon. Plus you got tiles and addy to take into account.

Sometimes a slow process getting the right solution when its being asked over a forum. So much easier to be stood in front of what you are looking at. Your other picture didn't show the door.

 

[chrisb1357]

So a sbr bond agent to for the render.

Do you think the gap would be to tight if I was to board if u take into account the board and tiles

 

[AliGage]

What tiles were you thinking of fixing?

 

[chrisb1357]

198x248 English Glossy White / Bumpy

 

[chrisb1357]

Hi all,

Many thanks for two members off the forum coming round to quote for the tile work.

I have also been quoted around £90 to re skim that wall. The base plaster which is still under the wall is very solid and is fixed to breeze block and not brick.

Chris

 

[AliGage]

Seems a resonable price to me.