outside corner in rectangle bathroom

[mr angry]

hi guys,

please excuse my terminology if i dont describe my current diy job. i have just ordered tools from amazon... cube laser, trowel, float, grout etc... i have not ordered the leveling tile kit yet as there are so many to choose from so hopefully someone can recommend a cheap good kit.

anyways, i am about to start tiling my bathroom but im not sure how to tackle the outside corner inside the bathroom. my choice is the offset method rather than the stacking one. maybe you can convince me otherwise :/

i would also add that i cannot get the rest of the pant off the wall as its stuck pretty good. ive read on google that all paint should be removed or by doing heavy scores in the plaster to make the adhesive bond. what do you recommend for heavy scoring the walls as i feel using a razor blade is not suffice.

i also have to tile the floor and upon checking this it looks like a 9m ply was used for the tiles already laid. should i use the same thickness of ply when i do the floor? if so, then i will be left with a step up into bathroom like before (not a big problem) around an inch height. i need to rip it all up anyways due to radiator pipe work and water inlet for toilet being offset.

the measurements for wall width 22cm for left width and 45cm for the right width. the tiles for the wall are 298mm x 498mm bought from b&q. if you need any more info please tell me.

should i start tiling the walls first or the floor?



thanks

cameron

 

[Time's Ran Out]

DIY requires a certain amount of knowledge and general practicality.
If you use the search feature of the forum you should find everything discussed from the last 12 years.

 

[mr angry]

hi,

ive tried searching and i cant find anything that relates to my query....am i using the wrong terminology? ive tried googling it and cant find anything either 🙁

cheers

 

[ttt tiling]

I agree with John , you're basically asking too much. Research the basics , then ask specific questions.
We can't turn you into a seasoned pro overnight.

 

[mr angry]

ok so how do i tackle the outside corner when tiling round onto the flat? do i have a full tile cut all the way down both sides or have mini cuts with an offset look?

 

[Old Mod]

If you want an off set look, find centre of both walls and draw a plum line top to bottom on each.
Whether you choose to start full piece or cut piece on the first row is entirely your choice.
For us we would see how that relates to the whole room rather than focusing on that one small area.
So follow the bond around the room see if it presents complications elsewhere.
This is the look you will try to achieve.
Every other course will look like one tile wraps around the corner.

 

[ttt tiling]

I would recommend stacked anyway.
Looks more contemporary and infinately easier.

 

[mr angry]

after much consideration i will stack the tiles, not my preferred choice but should alleviate much headache. it will look nice but not as nice as i can visualise 🙁

as for my outside corner (left & right)im assuming that i will just use cuts to stack/lay up the wall and then work from the middle main wall in the photo.

also, when i attempt the floor is it ok or pleasant to the eye to have the offset look against a stacked wall tile?

just need to get a baton and plywood from b&q 🙂 and its hammer time 🙂

cheers

 

[mr angry]

is there a good tool for scribing the wall?

 

[Qwerty]

Scrape off all the paint with a 4" scraper

 

[mr angry]

i have a scraper of all different sizes but this paint is for not coming off properly. some areas like you see in photo were ok....peeling off but others i would need to hammer and chisel it.

 

[Qwerty]

Spread ready mixed tile adhesive on it, leave for 30 mins then scrape it off

 

[Bill]

Good luck with stacking those B&Q tiles with inline joints as they will be sizey as hell.

 

[ttt tiling]

Tiling ain't easy or they'd all do it!

 

[mr angry]

hi when i tackle the floor will it be ok to use a 9mm marine ply with a 6mm cement backerboard? or just use a thicker marine ply?

cheers

 

[mr angry]

anyone?

 

[Qwerty]

What is your floor now, floorboards?

 

[mr angry]

yes just floorboards. ive ripped up the 18mm plywood, not sure if its marine ply :/

can i get a 12mm marine ply and put a 6mm backerboard on top? do i need to use some sort of adhesive with the backboard if i do need it?

cheers

 

[Qwerty]

I personally would remove all floorboards and lay minimum 18mm WBP ply and then overboard that. Dont mess about with thin ply, it doesnt comply with British Standards and it will fail

 

[mr angry]

do the floorboards not run underneath the walls and would it be more difficult to remove them? if i dont choose to remove the floorboards what would you recommend using on top of them?

cheers

 

[Qwerty]

You will have to check if they do, but even if they are I will nearly always remove them. You can overboard onto the floorboards but you will probably find there are holes everywhere for pipes etc and boards are poorly fixed or warped. I perform full refits so I take up the flooring 90% of the time to amend plumbing

 

[mr angry]

here are some photos of floor and piping for radiator. how far down should i cut the pipe in order to put a bend on it? is my diagram ok for what i plan to do? my terminology is crap so please tell me exactly what parts i need. you will see from photo diagram of how my radiator is and the other diagram of my proposed look when ive sorted the pipework.

can i use plastic pipe on copper or just copper? is there a preference. i realise this is a tiling forum so im assuming some you you professionals tackle this type of thing everyday....maybe im wrong :/

should i replace the floorboards with a thicker plywood? my intentions were to keep the floorboard as it is 22mm thick and seems in a reasonable condition. my issue is what thickness should i replace the floor with and how thick a backer board should i use on top? is this the recommended way forward? can i use a thicker than 22mm plywood??

thanks in advance

cammy

 

[Qwerty]

I would suggest you visit our sister forum- www.ukplumbersforums.co.uk

From your photos though I would seriously check out the structural integrity of the joists. I can see alot or rot and cut away areas of joists

 

[Qwerty]

Your diagram looks fine to me though

 

[mr angry]

hi guys,

ive tried to join the plumbers forum with no success.... if someone could alert the plumbersforum because ive tried everything! deleted cache, hostory blah blah blah1

i have used chrome, safari and firefox and i cant get the captcha thing to work. i even tried refreshing and still nothing...any ideas???

cheers

 

[mr angry]

here is where my drain valve is in my dinning room 🙁

also, since i cant join the plumbers forum just now can someone advise on the best way forward for the u bend from bath? can i have the wast from bath go straight down and underneath floor boards with the u bend going straight into the pipe? or do i need to have the ubend above the floor line meaning i have a s shape trap as shown in photo with the waste going straight down adding into the pipework below floorboards. is there any pros/cons of having it above or below?

cheers

 

[mr angry]

i would also add regarding my copper pipe to query in the diagram above....is plastic pipe ok to join onto copper using pushfit if i have a combi boiler setup?

cheers

 

[Qwerty]

i would also add regarding my copper pipe to query in the diagram above....is plastic pipe ok to join onto copper using pushfit if i have a combi boiler setup?

cheers

Yes

 

[WetSaw]

here is where my drain valve is in my dinning room 🙁

also, since i cant join the plumbers forum just now can someone advise on the best way forward for the u bend from bath? can i have the wast from bath go straight down and underneath floor boards with the u bend going straight into the pipe? or do i need to have the ubend above the floor line meaning i have a s shape trap as shown in photo with the waste going straight down adding into the pipework below floorboards. is there any pros/cons of having it above or below?

cheers

View attachment 99538 View attachment 99539

If there's too much fall before the trap it can end up being syphoned out , also it's obviously better if you have access to the trap for cleaning.

 

[mr angry]

If there's too much fall before the trap it can end up being syphoned out , also it's obviously better if you have access to the trap for cleaning.

please define how much the fall is? what is the tolerance before a syphoning effect happens? i reckon the distance from the bath to the connecting pipes below floorboards would be about 1 to 1 half ft max.

cheers

 

[mr angry]

hi guys,

is this acceptable for scoring walls or do i need to heavily score it more?

thanks