How best to Tile a room?

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At the end of the day it is a personal opinion as to which way looks the best.
Sometimes we are instructed to set out against our advice and other times we make the decision. A lot can be dependant on the design of the tile and the need to follow a pattern around ( such as book match) and the colour of a travertine piece.
All I'am saying is putting a bit of furniture over the tiling is not one of the factors that would decide my setting out!
 
If anyone on here says that no matter what, in every circumstance without exception, they've centred every area throughout their entire professional career they're being less than honest.
 
At the end of the day it is a personal opinion as to which way looks the best.
Sometimes we are instructed to set out against our advice and other times we make the decision. A lot can be dependant on the design of the tile and the need to follow a pattern around ( such as book match) and the colour of a travertine piece.
All I'am saying is putting a bit of furniture over the tiling is not one of the factors that would decide my setting out!
I think you're taking things to an extreme there John in the way you're deciding to translate previous posts.
If the guy is in, what he considers to be his home for life, and he wants to see 3 full tiles throw the main entrance to his kitchen, but it leave a smaller cut to one side, which will be hidden amongst fixtures and fittings, why the hell not?
How far have you got to stand back to see a room
4-5m wide and be able to take it in within your peripheral vision?
Saying a space has to be centred without exception is just short sighted and not what we're paid to do.
We're there to give the client what he wants and the best possible finish.
When have you walked off a job because you weren't allowed to centre a room? Haha
 
Morning all, makes a change for me not to be centre of an argument. I understand that it is the done thing to centralise it usually, but there 800mm tiles I'd rather see a full a tile as possible for majority of room, rather than make 2 cuts, I know there will be some furniture on that side but it's not all about hiding it, I personally don't see it being terrible, needs to be cut somewhere, that would mean having a cut by bifolds and entrance, I'd rather just have a cut by bifolds. My bathroom is extremely small so again being able to see huge tiles going under bath with fewer visible cuts would be my preference, and same for kitchen, as cabinets will be sat over perimeter.
 
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is it because Ive advised it ? ,

Haha no Craig, why the hell would you think that! Haha the way I look at a job is just different to yours, like you would look at a plastering job different to me, that's all, it's nothing sinister. Haha
 
I think you're taking things to an extreme there John in the way you're deciding to translate previous posts.
If the guy is in, what he considers to be his home for life, and he wants to see 3 full tiles throw the main entrance to his kitchen, but it leave a smaller cut to one side, which will be hidden amongst fixtures and fittings, why the hell not?
How far have you got to stand back to see a room
4-5m wide and be able to take it in within your peripheral vision?
Saying a space has to be centred without exception is just short sighted and not what we're paid to do.
We're there to give the client what he wants and the best possible finish.
When have you walked off a job because you weren't allowed to centre a room? Haha
Not sure if you even read my post with this reply!
 
Who's
Morning all, makes a change for me not to be centre of an argument. I understand that it is the done thing to centralise it usually, but there 800mm tiles I'd rather see a full a tile as possible for majority of room, rather than make 2 cuts, I know there will be some furniture on that side but it's not all about hiding it, I personally don't see it being terrible, needs to be cut somewhere, that would mean having a cut by bifolds and entrance, I'd rather just have a cut by bifolds. My bathroom is extremely small so again being able to see huge tiles going under bath with fewer visible cuts would be my preference, and same for kitchen, as cabinets will be sat over perimeter.
You will have to make 2 cuts, if you come square off the bi-fold doors
 
I'm not even going to pretend that my advise is up there with other time served Tilers in terms of setting out as I haven't had to do it often. But, if I had centred my kitchen floor tiling to the whole room, I would have had a 2 inch slither in front of my units on one side and almost a full tile on the other. Would have looked poo. So I centred it from the main focal point and the largest visible area.

Now the only visible "slither" is 4 inches wide in front of a stepped door way right opposite another door so you do see it when you enter the room from one end. There are also some short cuts at one end of the room that you can't see because of a fridge and a dining table. But its the lesser of two evils. Better than having a 2 metre long, 50mm wide turd in the kitchen. Nothing is going to get moved around in the near future, and my missus is happy with it.
 
Ok John I'll apologise,I may have focused on your last sentence more than the whole post.
Bit of a knee jerk reaction on my part.
My intention was to say that, the fact that furniture will be covering that side of the room isn't really being considered as a setting out factor, it's being considered more as a compromise to give the overall desired effect.
I'll try not to respond in haste cos I'm walking out the door in future. 🙂
 
I don't centre any floor. I just tile it how it will look best for the tiles and room. If that means starting with a full tile from the rooms focal point then so be it, the same can be said if I centre it. Unless you are tiling a repetitive area then each job should be set out on its own merits.

Now that is the best advice on this subject and I expect a trusted advisor badge forthwith.
 
I don't centre any floor. I just tile it how it will look best for the tiles and room. If that means starting with a full tile from the rooms focal point then so be it, the same can be said if I centre it. Unless you are tiling a repetitive area then each job should be set out on its own merits.

Now that is the best advice on this subject and I expect a trusted advisor badge forthwith.
I can give you mine if you want...🙂 I do not need, I'm already over the badge green 😉
 
No internet where Ive been setting out my room wrong, so i couldn't post.
Right. The amount of times Ive read on here about setting out ,"centre your room" " centre the window" etc etc etc .
So what you all are saying is what mr wizard is proposing is right and look the dogs :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy: it doesn't , and if you lot think you are right, your not, it's wrong, it's the wrong way to set out and you know it .
You have all said (trusted advises) to centre your room and work from there , all of you have, if it does not work, yes you move to make it work ,if your main point is not centred, then work from that , but usually windows, does etc are centred , so you work from your centre, if you say you don't you are talking balls .
You work from you main point, these being his bifolds , if he doesn't it will look pants, as in the picture .
Tom, you don't just throw them down, and you know it, you are being pendantic ,you would measure your centre and work from there, if it doesn't work, you move it, but you have worked from your centre , and yes I think you deserve a badge as well :thumbsup:
Marc, I'm not wrong , is tiling a floor different from tiling a wall , in most cases when you tile a wall you centre the window wall ( if possible) if you don't it looks pants , its what you all say and what you all still say.
In mr wizards case , if I came on here and put pictures up of that floor set out like that , it would be ridiculed, you know it I know it .
You start at you centre point and work it from there , if it does not work , you move it to work .
Most of my clients ask for my advice as to setting out, only engineers think they know best , well and about 5 or 6 on here :tearsofjoy:

have a good weekend , I'm going out on the **** on my mates head wetting , so I won't be on from now
 
No internet where Ive been setting out my room wrong, so i couldn't post.
Right. The amount of times Ive read on here about setting out ,"centre your room" " centre the window" etc etc etc .
So what you all are saying is what mr wizard is proposing is right and look the dogs :tearsofjoy::tearsofjoy: it doesn't , and if you lot think you are right, your not, it's wrong, it's the wrong way to set out and you know it .
You have all said (trusted advises) to centre your room and work from there , all of you have, if it does not work, yes you move to make it work ,if your main point is not centred, then work from that , but usually windows, does etc are centred , so you work from your centre, if you say you don't you are talking balls .
You work from you main point, these being his bifolds , if he doesn't it will look pants, as in the picture .
Tom, you don't just throw them down, and you know it, you are being pendantic ,you would measure your centre and work from there, if it doesn't work, you move it, but you have worked from your centre , and yes I think you deserve a badge as well :thumbsup:
Marc, I'm not wrong , is tiling a floor different from tiling a wall , in most cases when you tile a wall you centre the window wall ( if possible) if you don't it looks pants , its what you all say and what you all still say.
In mr wizards case , if I came on here and put pictures up of that floor set out like that , it would be ridiculed, you know it I know it .
You start at you centre point and work it from there , if it does not work , you move it to work .
Most of my clients ask for my advice as to setting out, only engineers think they know best , well and about 5 or 6 on here :tearsofjoy:

have a good weekend , I'm going out on the **** on my mates head wetting , so I won't be on from now
Hang on.... I'm confused..... please step in and correct me if I have read this wrong.....

@3_fall said do not to centre the room...... You have also just said, do not centre the room..... You said to go from the centre of a focal point, the bifold doors, which if you look at the plan is not completely central with the room. its offset to the left.

So for arguments sake, starting from the centre of the bifold leaves a nasty cut down the left wall.... furniture is not going there, so not going to be seen. Would you still keep it central to the door? Fine if you do, but if not, you shift over by half a tile to keep the symmetry to the door. Now your crappy little cut, is down the right hand side. No furniture going there, and immediately visible. which is more acceptable?

In either case, you are still not central to the room. you're central to something that is already offset, so something is going to be off somewhere, its just how you can disguise it better for a more aesthetically pleasing look. What wizard is proposing may not be technically correct, as it doesn't appear he's working from the centre of anything.

So what do you work from? Option 1, centre of the bifold door? Option 2, centre of the room, or Option 3, mark out where the furniture is going and work from the centre of the left over open area?

Good education this thread. Love it 🙂
 
Haha well Craig actually yes, a wall is different to a floor, completely.
A window wall is a window wall Craig, and yes more often than not centering it frames it, and it looks right.
When you're doing any large floor area like a family room/kitchen, there's no way you can view the whole floor when you're stood in the room, so you set it out for the best visual effect.
And taking this case in particular, bearing in mind we're only looking at a sketch, 3 full tiles across the entrance and running down and out to the back of the property doesn't look wrong.
When you enter the room you won't be able to see it all in its entirety unless you do a Tom cruise mission impossible and suspend yourself from the ceiling on a rope haha so what the hell does it matter.
And who's to say his i folds are even the main focal point?
Not everyone positions their furniture so that they look out the bifold/patio doors, I see plenty of room set ups that have the doors to the side or back, so making that the set out point would not give the best effect.
Our job is all about assessing and adapting to the situation we're presented with, I won't deny a centre line is often the start point, we may even strike a line, but for me at least I'll only use it as a reference point and I will parallel from that when I decide where to start. You did say yourself if it doesn't work you move it! 😀

On the subject of our dear friend Tom, he's definitely not playing up to you! Hahaha

Being immovable on the subject of setting a room out is short sighted mate, and I'm not digging you out Craig, but you're coming periously close to making this personal, and it's not!! I can assure you.

Oh one last thing Craig, I'm an ex engineer! 😛
 
Poor MP3 wizard, his thread's been trashed😛

Edit, I forgot the smilie for wilder
 
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You are right Widler, I don't just throw them down but I don't use a centre point either unless I have to. There is a difference.

If we centred every floor, more than likely the customer would have to fork out much more money than necessary for extra tiles, due to more cuts and wastage and possibly more in labour costs due to the extra cutting.

Like I say, I use my noggin to do what is best for the floor, especially now we have 1200mm+ size tiles. Can you imagine telling the customer they need another 20 1200mm tiles just because you want to centre a room with equal 2/3rds cuts at each end? Not every customer is a millionaire.
 
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Just a quick note to say that I did put some tiles down last week, it was pretty much as you said, I used the slow set stuff, definitely would have been in trouble if I used the quickset, 1 25kg bag is used for 2-3 tiles, the levelling system does aid, but like you said you have to be pretty spot on as it can't perform miracles on it's own. We took things slow and steady, using chalk lines, cleaning grout lines as we go, marking out the spaces etc, very hard work to pull up a tile with adhesive if it isn't level, definitely using a lot of adhesive in different areas to try and keep each tile next to each other level. Another issue we had was cracking of tiles when using the manual 800mm tile cutter, we have had 2 tiles crack so far, it's taken upto 15 runs over the tile for it to crack in the correct place.

I see why i got all of the concerns and warnings from people, I am happy with what has been done so far, I have worked extremely hard to get things right, and now I will only be able to do a bit each Friday and Saturday afternoons so to be honest it is going to take a long time, it's obviously a project that I have invested a lot of time in so I am thinking it takes as long as it takes aslong as I'm happy with the end result.

I am thinking that it's best not to upload photos until I'm further along for now.
 
If you can only work a couple days of the week now, it maybe worth yourwhile to use a grinder and good cutting disc instead of your mechanical cutter. You shouldn't be scoring 15 times to make a cut.
Glad you appreciate the difficulties that you are facing, it'll make for a better end result.
Good luck.
 
thanks, yeh it's a brand new cutter, seemed like it should of been ok, it was specifically for tiles upto 800mm, the tile is 10mm thick, would you know what cutting disc would be the best to use?
 
ATS Diamond tools do a grinder blade
called Turbo X it's about £12 they're based in Surrey, call Alan this morning, you'll have it tomorrow.
It'll cope with those easily, just takes a steady hand.
Wear dust mask!!
 

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