Cutting Really Hard Porcelain Tiles.

[StevieBoy]

I am currently doing a new build where the customer has bought some tiles from Porcelenasa.
They are 440mm x 660mm porcelain and are the hardest most evil tiles I have come across in 20 years of tiling.
I bought a Rubi TX-900n from Dave at Trade tiler as my TS -60 wouldn't entertain them and even it won't cut them properly. I have lubricated the scoring wheel with the oil from a rubi maintenance kit, scored the tile a few times either end more than once, and they just break where they want to.
My next step was to buy one of those montolit blades for my mini grinder, now it does cut them but chips the edges like you would not believe.
My wet bed cutter was the same, chipped the edges etc.

I've tried scoring with the rubi, then using the montolit but that didn't work, tried putting tape on and cut through that but that didn't change anything either.
The cuts at the
top I can get away with, as the chipped edge is disguised with the grout - but it's when you come to doing the L shapes around the top and bottom of the windows that I'm struggling with.
I contacted Dave at trade tiler, explained everything to him and the method I was using with the Tx900n and he reassured me I was doing everything correct.

So has anyone else come across these, and if so how did you cut them with no chipping?
Thanks.

 

[Unused Account 1]

I am currently doing a new build where the customer has bought some tiles from Porcelenasa.
They are 440mm x 660mm porcelain and are the hardest most evil tiles I have come across in 20 years of tiling.
I bought a Rubi TX-900n from Dave at Trade tiler as my TS -60 wouldn't entertain them and even it won't cut them properly. I have lubricated the scoring wheel with the oil from a rubi maintenance kit, scored the tile a few times either end more than once, and they just break where they want to.
My next step was to buy one of those montolit blades for my mini grinder, now it does cut them but chips the edges like you would not believe.
My wet bed cutter was the same, chipped the edges etc.

I've tried scoring with the rubi, then using the montolit but that didn't work, tried putting tape on and cut through that but that didn't change anything either.
The cuts at the
top I can get away with, as the chipped edge is disguised with the grout - but it's when you come to doing the L shapes around the top and bottom of the windows that I'm struggling with.
I contacted Dave at trade tiler, explained everything to him and the method I was using with the Tx900n and he reassured me I was doing everything correct.

So has anyone else come across these, and if so how did you cut them with no chipping?
Thanks.

For the straight cuts ,once youve scored it a few times snap it ot the edge of something ,ive used the top of the scorer handle ,your doing everything right mate ,just crazy man made porcelain

 

[Simon benn Leeds]

That would be great Simon.
Would a 1.2 m x 200 mm textured grade 5 porc be okay?
Sorry if the post looks strangely written I'm using the dictation on my phone

Yeah it's all in the scribe.

 

[Unused Account 1]

Tell ya summet mate was looking at trade tiler last night after the recent thread, the amount of spare bits for my rubi im sure that sites owned by a rubi rep lol. But then again i was looking at the "bits under a fiver section" lol

Dave was the first rubi supplier in england ,from tradetiler,

 

[Unused Account 1]

Try and get your hands on a Kaufmann before you buy a sigma Marc, I tried the sigma the other day then tried the Kaufmann again, Kaufmann is incredible. But each to their own.

Hey simon ,that kaufman looks awesome and very well priced ,you got one

 

[StevieBoy]

Anyway, back on subject with an update.
Tried the cardboard underneath etc - didn't work
Tried wet cutting 5mm from scored line then cut to scored line - didn't work

The only method that came close, was to dry cut with the month blade holding the grinder at a slight angle away from you, then clean the edges up with the stone. A very time consuming task indeed, but necessary to achieve the correct standard of finish.
Thanks to all for the input - if I never see these type of tiles again it won't be too soon!

 

[Mr Tiler]

Got any pocs of the tile mate?

 

[Unused Account 1]

Anyway, back on subject with an update.
Tried the cardboard underneath etc - didn't work
Tried wet cutting 5mm from scored line then cut to scored line - didn't work

The only method that came close, was to dry cut with the month blade holding the grinder at a slight angle away from you, then clean the edges up with the stone. A very time consuming task indeed, but necessary to achieve the correct standard of finish.
Thanks to all for the input - if I never see these type of tiles again it won't be too soon!

Some of the porcelain getting crazy to cut to a top finish

 

[mattle40]

I've seriously only ever come across 1 tile I couldn't consistently cut with my sigma. That was a 12mm riven porcelain called kripton by imola. Seriously tough tile. And I bet I could even cut that these days having now become one with my trusty cutter lol

 

[Unused Account 1]

I've seriously only ever come across 1 tile I couldn't consistently cut with my sigma. That was a 12mm riven porcelain called kripton by imola. Seriously tough tile. And I bet I could even cut that these days having now become one with my trusty cutter lol

Mattie ,need to buy new tx for porcelain cuts ,rubi,you think your sigma better ,appreciatte your opinion ,thanks

 

[mattle40]

Oh that's a big debate on here. A lot of arguments lol.
My personal opinion is that the sigma max series is a far superior cutter to the rubi. Really is a great machine. If your West Yorkshire region you're more than welcome to give it a blast.

 

[gamma38]

Same for me. Sigma cuts loads better than a Rubi.

 

[Unused Account 1]

Oh that's a big debate on here. A lot of arguments lol.
My personal opinion is that the sigma max series is a far superior cutter to the rubi. Really is a great machine. If your West Yorkshire region you're more than welcome to give it a blast.

I used to live in halifax ,that was a while ago lol ,whats the name of sigma please

 

[mattle40]

The sigma 3b3m is their 600mm model

 

[mattle40]

Sigma 3B3M MAX SERIES Tile Cutter - 60.5cm | Tool Venture

 

[Unused Account 1]

The sigma 3b3m is their 600mm model

What a good price ,did it take a while to get used of ,

 

[mattle40]

It did at first, I was only using a cheap ceramic and was using way too much force to scribe and break, it doesn't need much force at all. Ul be used to it in no time

 

[Unused Account 1]

Is good on porcelain

 

[mattle40]

Yes, brilliant

 

[mattle40]

 

[Unused Account 1]

Looks good ,great price how long you had your

Looks good ,great price how long you had your

Thanks for chat

 

[mattle40]

Been using sigma for about 3 years but was a rubi user for 5 years before that,
I was converted after 10 minutes

 

[Chalker]

CTD selling sigma now.

 

[StevieBoy]

Got any pocs of the tile mate?

I'll post one up tomorrow.

 

[StevieBoy]

First try some cardboard under the tile, also once scored move the tile an inch or two down the cutter before breaking because if you look the solid centre bit of the bed is away from the edge ive had this problem with my 750 mate thats my 2 pence

Update. I forgot to take a picture of the tile, but I have discovered that if I lubricate the scoring wheel when cutting every other tile and put the cardboard underneath - this method actually works.

Thanks Mr Tiler for that, only obstacle now is doing the L shaped cuts without chipping. Will have to get the stone out I guess.

 

[Mr Tiler]

Update. I forgot to take a picture of the tile, but I have discovered that if I lubricate the scoring wheel when cutting every other tile and put the cardboard underneath - this method actually works.

Thanks Mr Tiler for that, only obstacle now is doing the L shaped cuts without chipping. Will have to get the stone out I guess.

Dont thank me buddy theres a guy on this site who told me that trick, cheers stef

 

[Italy]

ok you are dealing with a high bake tile using cheap matirails total stress on the tile first you have to take out the stress the best way to do this is to core a 30 mm hole on the courner were your courner meets then scribe back to your core on the out side hole now grind out the shortest line on the inside of your scribe and then snap the long edge then grind out the remaining courner the times have been hard and a lot of tile manafators have cut cost this if the price we are now paying

I also do so, for chipping use http://www.sigmaitalia.com/diamond-tools/diamond-blades
72 D/E/F/G/

if the material to be cooked wrong, send an email to imola, as I did, you compensate time and equipment worn, google translated