Cutting Really Hard Porcelain Tiles.

[StevieBoy]

I am currently doing a new build where the customer has bought some tiles from Porcelenasa.
They are 440mm x 660mm porcelain and are the hardest most evil tiles I have come across in 20 years of tiling.
I bought a Rubi TX-900n from Dave at Trade tiler as my TS -60 wouldn't entertain them and even it won't cut them properly. I have lubricated the scoring wheel with the oil from a rubi maintenance kit, scored the tile a few times either end more than once, and they just break where they want to.
My next step was to buy one of those montolit blades for my mini grinder, now it does cut them but chips the edges like you would not believe.
My wet bed cutter was the same, chipped the edges etc.

I've tried scoring with the rubi, then using the montolit but that didn't work, tried putting tape on and cut through that but that didn't change anything either.
The cuts at the
top I can get away with, as the chipped edge is disguised with the grout - but it's when you come to doing the L shapes around the top and bottom of the windows that I'm struggling with.
I contacted Dave at trade tiler, explained everything to him and the method I was using with the Tx900n and he reassured me I was doing everything correct.

So has anyone else come across these, and if so how did you cut them with no chipping?
Thanks.

 

[Mr Tiler]

First try some cardboard under the tile, also once scored move the tile an inch or two down the cutter before breaking because if you look the solid centre bit of the bed is away from the edge ive had this problem with my 750 mate thats my 2 pence

 

[Old Mod]

Maybe try scoring back too and tapping along the back with pin hammer before trying to break on ur TX

 

[Andy Allen]

Try a sigma....far superior cutter. ..😀

Someone had to say it...lol

Might as well be me....😛

 

[Old Mod]

Try a sigma....far superior cutter. ..😀

Someone had to say it...lol

Might as well be me....😛

Uh huh! Hahaha only you Andy! 😛

 

[Mr Tiler]

Try a sigma....far superior cutter. ..😀

Sounds like its the tiler to me not the cutter mate lol, if hes been cutting for 20 years with a ts hes lucky hes not crossed the tiles i cut a lot of the time lol only jokin

 

[Old Mod]

Try a sigma....far superior cutter. ..😀

Haven't used a Sigma Andy so I didn't like the post! Haha
However!! I am actually considering a large format one....
So watch this space! Haha 😉

 

[Mr Tiler]

Ive used siramics the once but the breaking system is the same as the tx so cant see much of a difference although i remember watching a vid with prev members having a comp, sure the thread will end up linked but that was purely about who can cut the thinnest slither! And who needs a slither other than 3 fall with those class glass cuts! Lol

 

[StevieBoy]

First try some cardboard under the tile, also once scored move the tile an inch or two down the cutter before breaking because if you look the solid centre bit of the bed is away from the edge ive had this problem with my 750 mate thats my 2 pence

Maybe try scoring back too and tapping along the back with pin hammer before trying to break on ur TX

Thanks chaps, will give both methods a try and report back next week.

Still not sure how I'm going to cut the L shaped ones though without chipping the edges. 😡

 

[Old Mod]

who needs a slither other than 3 fall with those class glass cuts! Lol

That was done with a Montolit glass blade Ash, on a wet cutter mate.😀

 

[Mr Tiler]

Thanks chaps, will give both methods a try and report back next week.

Still not sure how I'm going to cut the L shaped ones though without chipping the edges. 😡

Wet cutter bud grinders great for most but some are brittle as hell thats where wet cuts come in

 

[On one]

L shaped cuts........try scoring and then cut on your wet cutter just a tiny fraction back off your scored line and you might just get away with it.

 

[Mr Tiler]

That was done with a Montolit glass blade Ash, on a wet cutter mate.😀

Ahh thats why the finnish was so nice, as i just explained haha i think the motolit might be the htc of the tile cutting world in that case, "quietly brilliant" lol

 

[Old Mod]

Ahh thats why the finnish was so nice, as i just explained haha i think the motolit might be the htc of the tile cutting world in that case, "quietly brilliant" lol

At the cost of their blades Ash they'd better we'll be damn good! Haha

 

[Mr Tiler]

At the cost of their blades Ash they'd better we'll be damn good! Haha

Tell ya summet mate was looking at trade tiler last night after the recent thread, the amount of spare bits for my rubi im sure that sites owned by a rubi rep lol. But then again i was looking at the "bits under a fiver section" lol

 

[gamma38]

Sigma for me. Not met much they won't cut to be fair.

 

[Mr Tiler]

Sigma for me. Not met much they won't cut to be fair.

Same as tx range for me get the odd wavey cut but thats about it even the little stone mosaics love cutting them

 

[AliGage]

Try a Rubi J slot blade in your grinder

 

[Rizzle from the Portizzle]

ok you are dealing with a high bake tile using cheap matirails total stress on the tile first you have to take out the stress the best way to do this is to core a 30 mm hole on the courner were your courner meets then scribe back to your core on the out side hole now grind out the shortest line on the inside of your scribe and then snap the long edge then grind out the remaining courner the times have been hard and a lot of tile manafators have cut cost this if the price we are now paying

 

[Simon benn Leeds]

Haven't used a Sigma Andy so I didn't like the post! Haha
However!! I am actually considering a large format one....
So watch this space! Haha 😉

Try and get your hands on a Kaufmann before you buy a sigma Marc, I tried the sigma the other day then tried the Kaufmann again, Kaufmann is incredible. But each to their own.

 

[Simon benn Leeds]

Thanks chaps, will give both methods a try and report back next week.

Still not sure how I'm going to cut the L shaped ones though without chipping the edges. 😡

Scribe both sides, then grind/ or wet cut inside the scribe lines and rub down with your carborundum stone ( do people still use these? I do ) worth a try.

 

[Old Mod]

Try and get your hands on a Kaufmann before you buy a sigma Marc, I tried the sigma the other day then tried the Kaufmann again, Kaufmann is incredible. But each to their own.

Cheers for that Simon, I'll certainly try and have a go of both machines first then!
I know where I can try both the sigma and Rubi.
The Kauffman maybe a different story tho!
Unless anyone in my area has one I can try? 😉

 

[Old Mod]

rub down with your carborundum stone ( do people still use these? I do ) worth a try.

Hahaha really funny u should say that Sy!
Was searching high and low for one of those a few months back! Haha
Found one eventually 🙂

 

[Simon benn Leeds]

Where in sw London are you?
I'll be doing a little job at Marble Arch in a week or 2 gladly meet up.
You bring the tile, I'll bring the beast!... ha ha.

 

[Simon benn Leeds]

Hahaha really funny u should say that Sy!
Was searching high and low for one of those a few months back! Haha
Found one eventually 🙂

Don't know what I'd do without mine!. Talk about broke in, had it YEARS!... ha ha....

 

[Old Mod]

Where in sw London are you?
I'll be doing a little job at Marble Arch in a week or 2 gladly meet up.
You bring the tile, I'll bring the beast!... ha ha.

Ooow! I could well be in Gloucester Terrace in a couple weeks!
(Paddington) 🙂

 

[Simon benn Leeds]

That's not far, I'll keep you updated once I get the programme.

 

[Old Mod]

That's not far, I'll keep you updated once I get the programme.

That would be great Simon.
Would a 1.2 m x 200 mm textured grade 5 porc be okay?
Sorry if the post looks strangely written I'm using the dictation on my phone

 

[jimthetiler]

how to wet cut with less chipping but takes time....first score a line then cut off the line with wet cutter then make another pass or two until you reach scored line,failing this use permanent marker pen and colour in chips.

 

[Old Mod]

,failing this use permanent marker pen and colour in chips.

Hahaha that's been a point of discussion before! Haha
It actually shocked me how many of us do it! Haha

 

[Unused Account 1]

I am currently doing a new build where the customer has bought some tiles from Porcelenasa.
They are 440mm x 660mm porcelain and are the hardest most evil tiles I have come across in 20 years of tiling.
I bought a Rubi TX-900n from Dave at Trade tiler as my TS -60 wouldn't entertain them and even it won't cut them properly. I have lubricated the scoring wheel with the oil from a rubi maintenance kit, scored the tile a few times either end more than once, and they just break where they want to.
My next step was to buy one of those montolit blades for my mini grinder, now it does cut them but chips the edges like you would not believe.
My wet bed cutter was the same, chipped the edges etc.

I've tried scoring with the rubi, then using the montolit but that didn't work, tried putting tape on and cut through that but that didn't change anything either.
The cuts at the
top I can get away with, as the chipped edge is disguised with the grout - but it's when you come to doing the L shapes around the top and bottom of the windows that I'm struggling with.
I contacted Dave at trade tiler, explained everything to him and the method I was using with the Tx900n and he reassured me I was doing everything correct.

So has anyone else come across these, and if so how did you cut them with no chipping?
Thanks.

For the straight cuts ,once youve scored it a few times snap it ot the edge of something ,ive used the top of the scorer handle ,your doing everything right mate ,just crazy man made porcelain