toilet wastes

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tiler tom

Come across this problem loads off times. When it comes to bathrooms I like to remove the sanitory makes for a better finish and life easier. Almost always you have a high point around the toilet waste and a rocking high tile the same with door frames they never seem to maintain the same depth above the frame against the verticle.

what do you find the is best option to overcome the problem.
 
about the toilet i always have problems. last few imes ave removed the screws pulled it forward enough to put a tile behind then ive cracked the pipe and it leaked because of the stress of pulling it. aaaaaahhhhhhhh
 
Hello Mate,

I am being my usual dum self here, but could you describe in more detail as I dont fully understand what your saying.

kris
----
Tysfoot,

I wouldn't reccomend trying to slide a tile under the toilet as this will cuase damage to to the joint between the pan and cistern (it could make a hair line crack which would mean buying a new toilet or damage/ remove the rubber washer meaning disconnecting and reconnecting the toilet to the cistern). Many people try to do this, I have done it myself too a few years back when instaling ply. Its best to get some one to disconnect completly and refit afterwards.

Being early days in this trade, I haven't had any floor tiling jobs where I have been lucky enough to get the toliet removed so, I have been cutting around the toilet with the old wet saw.
 
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Any deviations in the walls ( around toilet wastes/door frames etc..) should all have been prepped before you commence tiling.....You should check all walls and returns for true-ness and either chip the humps out or fill low spots...its all down to prepping that's all.....The bigger the tile the flatter the wall needs to be....:thumbsup:
 
Any deviations in the walls ( around toilet wastes/door frames etc..) should all have been prepped before you commence tiling.....You should check all walls and returns for true-ness and either chip the humps out or fill low spots...its all down to prepping that's all.....The bigger the tile the flatter the wall needs to be....:thumbsup:
he is right again there is our Dave, a good point about the larger tiles as the adhesive manufactures say no more than 3mm deep on walls, but the plasters find it hard to keep it flat in these sort of places, where they find obstacles, like along the top bottom and sides of walls ect, they tend to curve as they seem to do in screeded floors humps around door frames corners ect and on power floated floors around columns ect 😛ete
 
Cut round the toilet / pedestal - You could have cut round them by the time you have removed them!! Why create work by removing toilet and pedestal?? If they change the bathroom suite at a later date, then save a few matching floor tiles and fit before new suite goes in.
 
Sorry tile style I disagree. I find it a lot quicker to remove the toilet first. Take today for example if must haven take 15 min to remove and another 15min to replace. It would have taken longer cutting also it gives more room to work in. The only down side is you have to be carefull as sometimes when perishable washers are conserned theyb become damaged just keep some spare ptfe and washers in your tool box.
 
People have different ways of doing things so respect your opinion Tom. There is no right or wrong. The main thing is to do a good job and I can cut round a toilet or pedestal leaving a nice neat finish reasonably quickly so thats my preffered way. Some tilers remove them because its quicker and do so because they have the necessary plumbing skills. Some tilers prefer to remove them because they havent got the skills to cut round and leave a neat finish. Besides, I am a tiler and insured for tiling only. I am not a plumber so I dont want any plumbing disasters!! - Lol
 
Cut round the toilet / pedestal - You could have cut round them by the time you have removed them!! Why create work by removing toilet and pedestal?? If they change the bathroom suite at a later date, then save a few matching floor tiles and fit before new suite goes in.
I ask the customer to get a plumber in to remove/refit. Doesn't take me any time at all then, and you get a better finish!

Grumpy
 
Tile stile has a good point. There have been a couple of occasions that I have had a leak one solely down to the condition of the toilet that had beed botched with tons of Silicon and when it leaked the condition of the toilet was pointed out and the customer had no option other than get it replaced. I tend to loosen the fittings and slip tiles behind sinks but toilets are so cumbersome trying to cut round wastes that I remove if possible. Each too there own.
 
It's nice have no toilet or sink in but at the end of the day most are fitted and you have to work round them if you have no plumbing experiance.
 
Tilestiles made a valid point there.!..

Make sure you are covered by your liability for all aspects of your work.....

And if you are not competent with plumbing then don,t do it....

Leave it to those who know what they are doing.....

It,s always wise be on good terms with a plumber , then you can give each other

work...and no probs with toilets etc.....
 
Cheers for the pm mate,

I see exactly what you mean. I guess plasters etc just dont think it matters if the customer doesnt notice.

The thing with plastering is it can be difficult for a customer to see any imperfections untill it come to painting or tiling etc. which magnifies these things. Mostcustomers would never think of putting a straight edge across the work on completion and even if they did they would probably be told,

'the tiler can tile over this'

Pass the buck! lol

kris
 
Totally agree with Tilestiles,I'm a tiler not a plumber.Not insured for plumbing disasters.I can easily cut round a toilet neatly in a few minutes,quicker than removing and re-installing.
Whatever works for you.
 

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