Travertine fixing

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ds1980

Hi all stIll doing the wet room and just about up to tiling. Have 100 mm trav for the floors. We us nicobond gear. Tile shop has given us adhesive but just wondering about distance between tiles. I remember someone saying it should be quite wide. It is unfilled and unhoned travertine. Also what sealer to use and when. I only have a topps tiles nearby will there stuff do and which one should I get. Thanks for help. Ps they are going on top of ufh.
 
not sure about Topps addy, I've never used it. But if it's a heat mat or loose cable UFH I'd be slc'ing it and use a de-coupling membrane too.
 
Loose cable. Concrete floor. We have the insulation board to go down first then laying ufh on that. What is a decoupling membrane?!?!? Ta
 
4mm joint gap for me, might be able to go down to 3 if using a decoupling mat but open to discussiion
 
this yellow membrane ds, it negates any lateral movement due to expansion/contraction. If you look carefully you can see the ufh beneath the slc on the part of the floor that hasn't yet had the de-coupler fitted

 
Ok thanks for that. Were going to do the slc with te tile adhesive. No insulation boards in wet area. Maybe do that bit with slc to create the slope needed to get to my drain. Using flexible thin set adhesive with about 4mm-5mm gaps was my thoughts. Would there be a problem with this? Ta

ps ufh will be on top of insulation boards

pps concrete floor is existing not a new one so no reason to think any movement???
 
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Ok thanks for that. Were going to do the slc with te tile adhesive. No insulation boards in wet area. Maybe do that bit with slc to create the slope needed to get to my drain. Using flexible thin set adhesive with about 4mm-5mm gaps was my thoughts. Would there be a problem with this? Ta

ps ufh will be on top of insulation boards

pps concrete floor is existing not a new one so no reason to think any movement???[/QUOTE]

but your ufh will heat the adhesive and cause movement to some degree. If you use slc, it completely encapsulates the ufh so that you get no "hot spots" or voids where heat pressure can build up. I use tile adhesive (rapid set) to fix the wire down, using a grout float, this then stops the ufh floating to the top.
It's your call tho'.
 
??? Sorry I'm new to this. If you use both where does the slc go. This is what I was thinking. Concrete floor. Tile adhesive to fix the insulation boards. Obviously boards on top. Ufh wire using glue gun. Tile adhesive. Travertine. Can't see where I would use the slc? In wet area. Tile adhesive and trav. Or possibly slc. Not decided yet? P is anyone watching the cycling? Womens sport is so bad!
 
OK update on floor. So far so good. Didnt need to get a "professional" did it all myself with a start from the FIL. Probably the easiest floor i've ever laid in fact. Ive only done 4! Tiles were soft but i had none snap or break. Took me quite a while so as far as i can see a professional stone layer would do the job quicker but certainly not any better?

Obviously time will tell but ive been jumping around on them to no ill effect! Looking forward to sealing and grouting but did a couple to start with under the toilet and under some boxing im doing and it was fine.

Thanks for all the help but if any of the pro's want a hand call the amateur!

Ha

oh yeh forgot to mention my trav 20x20 was £3.96 a square metre! Bargain!

Will post pics soon!
 
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Picture 022.jpgPicture 021.jpgPicture 023.jpg

amateurs work. Wickes special!!!!
 
No I did check but ufh supplier said there was no need. They know they'll be getting a call if it does!!
 
OK update on floor. So far so good. Didnt need to get a "professional" did it all myself with a start from the FIL. Probably the easiest floor i've ever laid in fact. Ive only done 4! Tiles were soft but i had none snap or break. Took me quite a while so as far as i can see a professional stone layer would do the job quicker but certainly not any better?

Obviously time will tell but ive been jumping around on them to no ill effect! Looking forward to sealing and grouting but did a couple to start with under the toilet and under some boxing im doing and it was fine.

Thanks for all the help but if any of the pro's want a hand call the amateur!

Ha

oh yeh forgot to mention my trav 20x20 was £3.96 a square metre! Bargain!

Will post pics soon!

£3.96 a m2!!!!

How is it looking now - any changes?

Im looking at Topps and they are £2.35 + vat per tile (400 sq) - say 6 tiles per m2 is roughly £17 m2!!
 
hiya ds,good to see it worked out for you so far

i would have personally used a wider joint by using spacers on the floor also slc to protect your cables as well as a decoupler..what you have done may look all and well but imho by not doing these things you may get a failure further down thwe line..i certainly hope not however
 
I have to agree with the guys above. These things were recommended because they would have given you the best installation possible. The heating company will not be any good to you if they are called back.

As above, hope it stays down :smilewinkgrin:

P.S Have you had the UFH on yet? If not, you must leave it a min of 2 weeks after it is grouted and then turned up no more than 5 degrees per 24 hours.
 
I was only thinking of this thread the other day and thought i must update with photos etc, i will hopefully when i get chance....been so long now i cant remember what we did in the end. UFH been on all winter. it comes on about 4 hours a day. Tiles are unbelievable i thionk for what we paid. Wet area has had no problems and had knee surgery not long ago so have been using it regularly twice a day. Dont really know what all the fuss was to be honest. Obviously time will tell but fingers crossed its been absolutely fine and im pretty sure will continue that way for many years. Oh forgot to mention that any problems now is insurances problem......" it was here when we got here mate" ;-)
 
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