Tiling around door frame

[James De]

hi everyone..

So doing this wetroom.. have boarded the walls with 6mm jackoboard. Have boarded around the door frame and left the timber frame exposed.

So the board sits proud of the frame, as will the tiles.

Is it best to tile to the far edge of the door frame or up to where the frame begins?

Also, are there edge trims that will hide both the edge of the tile and the cement board?

Cheers in advance
Jay

 

[WetSaw]

Is there not architrave going on? If so just add the correct thickness of wood to the frame before fitting the architrave.

 

[James De]

Is there not architrave going on? If so just add the correct thickness of wood to the frame before fitting the architrave.

I’ve no idea to be honest. So should I tile up to where the frame begins then so the chippie can finish off? (Assuming he’s fitting architrave)

 

[acaciaguy]

I would check if architrave is being fitted and if so it's size

 

[James De]

I would check if architrave is being fitted and if so it's size

Oh as in the width? Ok cool I’ll find out. Sorry, I’m a bit thick today!! (Most days to be fair!)

 

[acaciaguy]

I would find out both. The more information the better so you can get your bit right from the start it's those finishing bits around doors etc that make or break the finish of a job

 

[Boggs]

Find out your architrave width and add 5mm.

 

[Qwerty]

Thats what I always do too

 

[Time's Ran Out]

6mm backer boards are a bit thin! Did you stick it and mechanical fixing and what was the background - studs or plasterboard?

 

[James De]

6mm backer boards are a bit thin! Did you stick it and mechanical fixing and what was the background - studs or plasterboard?

Studs and skimmed plasterboard, screwed into studs.

 

[James De]

I would find out both. The more information the better so you can get your bit right from the start it's those finishing bits around doors etc that make or break the finish of a job

I’m going by what they’ve used on the adjacent door which is 45mm wide architraves, plus the 5mm from the edge of the frame so I’ll leave a 50mm gap around the frame. I asked the owner of the house and she didn’t have a clue so I told her what I was doing and she said that’s fine.

 

[acaciaguy]

Brill

 

[Waluigi]

I would’ve trowelled the wall up, and used more screws/washers. Washers need tanking too if in a shower

 

[James De]

I would’ve trowelled the wall up, and used more screws/washers. Washers need tanking too if in a shower

Yeah I’ve tanked those and filled them with the ardex paste prior to painting it. I thought of trowelling the boards but thought the mechanical fixings would be ok.. now you’ve said that I don’t feel so confident ‍♂️

 

[Boggs]

What was the studwork spacing?

I think the recommended spacing is 300mm for 12mm boards of this type.

Could be wrong though.

 

[Waluigi]

You tank over the washers.

Screw wise, you have a 600mm Board with two fixing points at either end of the 600mm with no adhesive behind the board. Not very secure IMHO, especially with 6mm board.

Maybe it’s just me. I don’t do many overboarding jobs. I think the last time I did a wall I used HB, 6mm. Glued and screwed.

 

[acaciaguy]

Copied from another thread about Jackoboard

JACKOBOARD® Plano construction boards can be fixed to timber or metal stud frames using JACKOBOARD® 36mm diameter galvanised steel washers and appropriate screws. If the frame centres are 600mm apart then boards of at least 20mm thick should be used. Fastening points must be arranged as per figure 3 or 4. If the frames are at 300mm centres then 10 or 12,5mm thick boards can be used. Fastening points must be arranged as per figure 5 or 6.

As the boards are over plasterboard in this case I don’t know if the same recommendations apply

 

[acaciaguy]

You tank over the washers.

Screw wise, you have a 600mm Board with two fixing points at either end of the 600mm with no adhesive behind the board. Not very secure IMHO, especially with 6mm board.

Maybe it’s just me. I don’t do many overboarding jobs. I think the last time I did a wall I used HB, 6mm. Glued and screwed.

Do you tend to rip out plasterboard and replace with hb etc

 

[James De]

What was the studwork spacing?

I think the recommended spacing is 300mm for 12mm boards of this type.

Could be wrong though.

Was 400mm centres between studs

 

[acaciaguy]

How big are tiles? Weight etc

 

[Boggs]

Was 400mm centres between studs

What was the background surface?
You mentioned bonding in a previous thread was this over skimmed?

 

[Waluigi]

where the boards join, you can get away with a fixing staggering both boards.

The issue you have if you don’t glue the boards is that any inperfections in the wall, dips or bows, aren’t accommodated and you essentially could have a piece of 6mm board floating. More screws are essential, to pull the board tight to the wall if nothing else.

 

[acaciaguy]

Is it a mixed wall substrate room? Skimmed bonding ? Plasterboard on studs?

 

[Waluigi]

Taping the joints helps to an extent, as the XPS wasn’t stuck, I would’ve used reinforcing tape and tile adhesive skimmed over.

 

[James De]

How big are tiles? Weight etc

The shower area are 1200x600 porcelain at 17kg each, the rest are 150x400 not sure in their weight.

 

[James De]

Is it a mixed wall substrate room? Skimmed bonding ? Plasterboard on studs?

Only one wall was mixed: one side was bonded over block, so drilled, plugged and screwed the backer boards over the bonding using 4” screws to get 3” of the screw into the block, the rest was plasterboard stud walls with a skim, so screwed the boards to the studs

 

[WetSaw]

Looking at the second picture it looks more like the door lining rather than the frame, you better check that so you don't end up miles out!

 

[James De]

What was the background surface?
You mentioned bonding in a previous thread was this over skimmed?

One wall was bonded to bring it square, which was on a block wall, so screwed the boards to the block with 4” screws

 

[James De]

Starting to feel slightly stressed out & worried now .. so basically you don’t think the boards will be adequate to hold the tiles?

 

[Time's Ran Out]

Only you can judge the adequacy of the prep!

 

[Boggs]

I would take down the jackoboard on the stud work and refit but sticking it with some rapidset.
Screw back through your studwork and fix again using some spring toggle fixings midway between the studs leaving you with a 200mm centre fixing.

Best be safe than sorry especially with that size/weight tile.