Mitred edges - 12mm travertine

[lockers]

I have been searching around for an answer to this without success so hopfully somebody can advise.

I consider myself to be a fairly competent diy tiler (it just takes a lot longer!) and I am about to start a bathroom project using 601x406x12mm honed and filled ivory travertine.

I have researched pretty much all aspects before I start but I am still not comfortable with how to approach the window surround edges.

The question is : do I use metal trims or attempt to mitre the edges.

I would prefer the mitred look but not at the expense of an untidy finish. I intend to hire a decent wet saw but am unsure how succsesful mitre joints will turn out.

I have also read that an angle grinder with a diamond cut blade can be effective but cannot workout how a definate straight edge could be maintained taking this approach?

If I go down the metal trim route would the 12mm aluminium trims such as those sold at tile rite be ok with my tiles allowing for adhesive (basic question I know).

Any advice greatly appreciated......

 

[White Room]

I do neither just extend the face tile past the window reveal about 15mm then bed the reveal tile flush so you don't see an edge standing back looking at the window. How do you mitre if you have an L shaped tile, the metal trims I've used with marble hope this helps.

 

[Perry]

polish the edges with a orbital sanded before you put them up

 

[lockers]

Over complicating...

OK. So i'm making this more complicated than I need to.

To simply butt the tiles up and polish the edges certainly seems more straightforward.

Is this regarded as common practice then ? Presumably I will need to use some fine paper to finish the edge to match the face of the tile... how close will it match the face?

Thanks for your comments.

 

[Perry]

good mate just keep it steady try to pick out the good edges

 

[plumbersmate]

or just use 9mm plastic trim (12mm will overlap too much), in cream or ivory and fit it level with the top of the tile. if you're going round the window always make sure the trim is fitted under the tile, and mitre the corners.

 

[Saltire69]

I do neither just extend the face tile past the window reveal about 15mm then bed the reveal tile flush so you don't see an edge standing back looking at the window. How do you mitre if you have an L shaped tile, the metal trims I've used with marble hope this helps.

I think this way looks better.Trims with Trav not very nice,makes it look cheap.

 

[Grace'sDad]

Big NO to plastic (or any) trim - it looks awful with natural stone.
Definitely would use the edge of the tiles as described earlier. I've done this in my own bathroom and it looks nice and "authentic"! Can post photos if you like?

Mitres are tricky on travertine, especially if it is slightly crumbly.

 

[devonmark]

Big NO to plastic (or any) trim - it looks awful with natural stone.
Definitely would use the edge of the tiles as described earlier. I've done this in my own bathroom and it looks nice and "authentic"! Can post photos if you like?

Mitres are tricky on travertine, especially if it is slightly crumbly.

Nice one...get them on..Mark.

 

[lockers]

Polished edges

Polished edges it is then!

Photos would be good though .......

Thanks again.

 

[Leatherface]

Hello chaps, some of the answers are nearly correct though not quite.
YES - the best results are acheived by butt jointing and polishing the edges.
HOWEVER - The way to acheive this is as follows............

You need a variable speed grinder ( I use a Makita )
& also a velcro sanding pad attatchment and sanding disks.

The idea is that you should sand and slightly round off the edges prior 2 fixing and then give a final light finishing sanding once the tiles are set and adhesive set. This way you do not do much unnecessary damage or sanding to the adjoining tiles.
Slow your grinder down to around 1400 rpm ( or speed setting 2 )
Start with 60 grit, then 80, then 120, then 300 and finally 500. Fix tile & continue with next. This will give a beautiful polished edge. Gently sand again in situ' once adhesive has set to even out.
I will upload a few pics of a job I recently did when I get time.
Faliure to use a slow speed or faliure to gradually go through grades of paper can cause scorching or poor results.

 

[GazTech]

or just use 9mm plastic trim (12mm will overlap too much), in cream or ivory and fit it level with the top of the tile. if you're going round the window always make sure the trim is fitted under the tile, and mitre the corners.

3mm more adhesive behind the tile will bring it flush into 12mm trim face..if the 12mm trim looks nicer

 

[Leatherface]

Think Plastic trim looks naff on travertine.
sorry

 

[basshunter]

Hi all,new to forum but in the same boat as lockers on my next job.

If the trav is decent (not too brittle etc) you could attempt to do a "birds beak" mitre which is taking half the thickness of the back of the tile off at 45 degrees.Do this to both pieces and but together.The small channel is then grouted.Difficult to explain without a pic
Otherwise its a butjoint-as mentioned above prep the edges before fixing.

Personally i think trim is naff-if your a true craftsman you will want to finish your work without.
Get your rubbing block and files out-just like in the good old days!!!

 

[DHTiling]

hi bass h.
I know exactly what you mean....nice to have your input mate.....
welcome..

 

[basshunter]

thanks dave,just been searching the net for a picture of a birds beak mitre but all im getting is...well birds beaks!

 

[Leatherface]

It's that same old chestnut again.....

Do you want to be a DIY tiler or a craftsman who can charge over and above for quality work to customers who have your number on reccomendation ?

Yes you can use plastic or metal trim. Yes you can try and sand them by hand.
Or invest in the proper tackle. Do the job right ( and quicker )

 

[lockers]

'Birds Beak'

Bass H - I know what you are describing with the 'birds beak' reference but I think that all things considered that might be a step too far for my limited expertise. I am sure it would look excellent but I will play it safe with a butjoint.

I think my time will be best spent with a file and rubbing block !

 

[DHTiling]

the terminolgy you should be looking for is a birds mouth not beak...lol lol.....

 

[Perry]

Hi Bass you sound like you have done it before :8:

 

[basshunter]

:mickey:

the terminolgy you should be looking for is a birds mouth not beak...lol lol.....

----

Hi Bass you sound like you have done it before :8:

yeah and turned out perfect.then my alarm clock went off

 

[robbbin]

I had a job recently with 14m marble m8 told me about a rexon cutter has all the mitre angles set in it bought one from screwfix about £80 done a brillant job great wet cutter added cost into job

 

[jrm1]

Hi there Leatherface - Just spent a small fortune on marble tiles (15mm thick) and intend to tile into recesses but have been wracking my brains about how to do this, seeing as you can't get round-overs made of stone. And we must agree, plastic would look naff.

So, thanks for your suggestion you posted on the tilersforum. I have a question though:
the variable speed grinder, is it an angle grinder or a die grinder? The air grinders I've found online all seem to have small probe-like ends and not a disc, as on an angel grinder.
You talk of changing sanding discs, so perhaps you use an angle grinder.
Have you used a die grinder? Would they give a better finish than an orbital disc?
If you're polishing in situ I would imagine a disc couldn't get into tight corners.
Loads of questions, I know. But if you could shed any light I would be ever so grateful.

 

[BMD]

Hi,

I am already at the stage where my tiler (who I wouldnt hire again) has my travertine tiles butted and now I need to come up with a solution to finish them nicely.

Given that the tiles haven't been pre-prepared....how do I go about polishing them to make the edge look better?

 

[Gazzer]

Hi,

I am already at the stage where my tiler (who I wouldnt hire again) has my travertine tiles butted and now I need to come up with a solution to finish them nicely.

Given that the tiles haven't been pre-prepared....how do I go about polishing them to make the edge look better?

[DLMURL="http://www.tradetiler.com/acatalog/Fein_Multimaster.html"]Tradetiler tilers Fein Multimaster[/DLMURL]
and TradeTiler.Ltd

 

[kaharrison9]

My personal thought is plastic with trav looks cheap and chrome with trav can look blingy

 

[robertson60]

Thanks for posting a question i was needing to ask as well, i was all prepared for trim around my door frame,reading some of the replies here that idea is scrapped but as im a joiner i was thinking mitred would be better, but then would like to see some finished pics of mitred, butt and birds mouth to see which has the better finish.

birds mouth is also used in roofs, where rafters sit on top of the wall plate, useless info i know lol

 

[rainsco]

here are some pics of groated mitred corners with natural stone in some of my projects:

http://www.mitterbiller.de/webseite2011/galerie/bad2/images/bad-hd-11.jpg
http://www.mitterbiller.de/webseite2011/galerie/bad1/images/jurabad003x.jpg
http://www.mitterbiller.de/webseite2011/011/images/jurabad10.jpg
http://www.mitterbiller.de/webseite2011/011/images/jurabad15.jpg

 

[Tony73]

looks perfect rainsco

 

[Martino]

rainsco thats excellent a notch above most tilers on here! well done pal....very good!

 

[Lodger]

How about grinding a pencil edge onto the reveal tiles, and hone. then put a miter on the 4 internal corners. So tile the wall first, with tiles flush or with 2-3mm overhanging into to the reveals, then fit the pencil edge tiles onto the reveal flush or with 1-2 space for grout line . All you have to miter is the 4 internal corners of the reveal. Not the whole face or it. That imho, would give a clean edge with a look you would achieve with a round trim. But without a trim!