Hello to the world of tiling - Views on best tile adhesives - TilersForums.com

[duncthediy]

Dear All

I would explain that I am about to embark on tiling a conservatory floor - using expensive random pattern porcelain tiles

The floor is concrete with a 75mm screed over.

There is to be installed an underfloor electric mat system hence there is 10mm of insulation to go down before heating/tiling

I have been advised that Ultra Prorapid would be a good adhesive and others say I need a flexible adhesive such as Ultra proflex SP. Others have recommended other manufactures eg BAL

Problem
I just want to do the job once and correctly and would like to use the best / correct adhesive


so I would ask what may be a bit of a controversial/subjective question as to what tilers view as the best adhesive for such a job


I hope that its not too much of an open ended question - I suppose I am just looking for some reinfocemnet of what I think I need and which manufactures to head for

Much appreciated

 

[Gazzer]

Your adhesive needs to be of the flexible type and suitable for underfloor heating. As to what brand I would suggest a well known make, Ultra, Mapei, BAL, etc Try and steer clear of the diy sheds .

 

[duncthediy]

Many thanks Sir Ramic,

I have tracked down a local supplier of Ultra proflex SP - selling a bag (20kg) for £14-34 so I will relieve him of some of his stock.

Thanks again - just the advise that I was looking for

 

[nybor62]

you also need to self level compound over the matting

 

[duncthediy]

Dear Nybor 62,
Thanks for the comment.

I had thought about SLC but there seems to be conflicting opinion about this - some people have said you can just use the adhesive other say use a SLC and then tile on top of the SLC. The thought process that went throu my mind was that the more cementious material that there is then there would be more mass to warm up before the tiles got warm - hence that is why I thought that I would just go for the single hit of adhesve to encase the mat and glue the tiles "option" but if the trade advise me that SLC is the best route then I would always listen to guys that do this day in and day out

Thanks again for taking the time to reply


Cheers


PS Will there be a hand-shake tomrrow? United to win?

 

[Ian]

Not using SLC is a perfectly viable option so long as you ensure that the heat wire is 100% encased in the adhesive. The main reason(s) for using SLC prior to tiling is to ensure the wire is encased and to protect the wire from the metal teeth of the trowel during tiling. The SLC gives you a smooth surface to tile to and will ensure that your tiles can have a full bed of adhesive, in my opinion, it is an essential part of an underfloor heatin/tiling installation.

 

[DHTiling]

Most UFH comps will now advise encapsulating the matt in a suitable SLC... then tile onto this with a suitable flexible tile adhesive..

my preference is a single part fibre based SLC and a S1 flexible adhesive... and then CG2 grout...

 

[duncthediy]

Dear Brian

Many thanks for the advice. It does seem as the trade, from similar discussions, now view SLC as the way forward for ufh mats. I have used SLC once before ( bought from a DIY shed)- followed instuctions carefully but ended up with a floor with more uneven - then spent some time removing it.

Probably my fault for not using something like Mapei SLC (£35/bag).

I have a plastic trowel which I got because I did not want to nick the ufh wire with my metal trowel.

Thanks for the words of widom

cheers

 

[Mike]

Dear Brian

Many thanks for the advice. It does seem as the trade, from similar discussions, now view SLC as the way forward for ufh mats. I have used SLC once before ( bought from a DIY shed)- followed instuctions carefully but ended up with a floor with more uneven - then spent some time removing it.

Probably my fault for not using something like Mapei SLC (£35/bag).

I have a plastic trowel which I got because I did not want to nick the ufh wire with my metal trowel.

Thanks for the words of widom

cheers

As already said you should use slc to avoid walking on the bare cables and risk damaging them, Mapei renovation screed should be cheaper than £35 and its really good stuff if you follow the instructions correctly.

tapatalk on my HTC

 

[Andy Allen]

try weber flex slc, if you have a supplier near you, it can go to 50mm depth, and you should get it cheaper than £35.00 a bag, and there 25kg bags..

 

[Stef]

Weber Flex is really good stuff to use as is Mapei Renovation Screed.

ive been using a plastic spike roller recently & it really does help to work it & get it flat & smooth.

 

[duncthediy]

Dear All,

Thanks for your help

Seems as if SLC is the progressive way forward for UFH installations for the many advantages that it brings - potentially easy to get to if need to repair UFH, level surface for the tile, provides protection for the UFH mat when tiling - so all these reasons SLC is my next purchace and a plastic spiked roller

Next questions is - do I need white addy for a light coloured porcelain floor tile ( Malborough york flags ) or will grey be ok.


Thanks again

 

[Gazzer]

Grey will be ok , I tend to use white though if using a light colour grout.

 

[Mike]

as with sir ramic but make sure you clean every joint as you go, nothing worse than seeing a bit of adhesive showing through the grout

 

[duncthediy]

Dear All

I am very impressed with the world of tilers

All wonderful advice

Looks like white addy since I would want to use "limestone" coloured grout -

The tiles ( 3 different sizes (300x 300, 450 x 450, 757 x450) determine the spacing - Spent most of Sat afternoon dry laying them to sort out the pattern.
So far I have learnt- flexi addy - SLC the UFH mat then tile - use white addy with light coloured grout

Tile cutting
I have a cheap and cherful wet bed tile cutter with a standard disk - I never have ventured into using porcelain tiles and from what other have said I suspect that porcelain tiles will present a bit of a challenge - so while I am on a bit of a roll any top tips for cutting porcelain tiles and anything to watch out for?

I might even end up making a reasonable job of with all this help !

Thanks again