Farm kitchen | damp wall - TilersForums.com

[Julian 'Farmer' Bonsall]

Hello all.

I previously posted regarding some failed tiles in a farm kitchen.
The walls have sand / cement render and was due to damp issues.

The suggestion was to remove the render, replace with hardibacker or similar (thanks for the advice).

My question is related to will the hardibacker allow the potential moisture from the brick work behind to permeate through to the adhesive along with all the minerals associated ?

Many thanks.

 

[Qwerty]

Yes it will. Hardibacker is not waterproof. You will require a waterproof tanking board.

Have you tried getting rid of the cause of the damp?

 

[Julian 'Farmer' Bonsall]

Hi.
The damp is throughout the whole ground floor. House is approx 450 years old, hand made bricks on site with rubble left to fill inside courses.

Over the past many year the family have owned it made ideas have been tried. The cement render being the most successful.

Given the non connections in the wall construction damp proof chemicals only work on small areas and tend to force the water to new areas. Water repellent silicone based coatings externally have not been helpful.

The building is not on typical foundations but uses keystones on corners and the lower courses laid directly on the clay the bricks came from.

Would you be kind enough to suggest a manufactuer of a board?

I had thought about using a liquid tanking system over new render, then tile to that like a wet room.

Appreciated.

 

[Ajax123]

Why not dry line it.

 

[Julian 'Farmer' Bonsall]

Well the kitchen is already fit so it would have to match the depth of what is currently there. Also one wall is on the opposite side to an aga separated by a chimney stack - so kitchen side this part protudes by approx 100mm from the rest of the wall and door ways ( two of ).

So I guess the simple answer is I didn't think feasible without a lot of work for doors, sockets, and cupboards etc. The render depth varies a lot depending quite which brick we are looking at but I would say 3/4 " would be an average at a guess.

I agree the dry lining method would solve the problem and is what I did for a wetroom downstairs years ago.

 

[Julian 'Farmer' Bonsall]

Hello all.

Would anyone be able to suggest a manufacturer of a suitable board?
Would the tanking method I mentioned also be suitable?

 

[Julian 'Farmer' Bonsall]

Feedback from HardieBacker
My concerns over the permeability of the boards.

1. The walls are cement rendered to resist damp. One wall shares a chimney with an aga the otherwise. After 20 years or so the tiles are unstuck. I had thought of rendering again and using a liquid solution as used in wet rooms. Some people suggested various boards but I couldn't spot any that did not allow moisture to pass through them.
   
   
   
2. HardieBackerTF Official Sponsor
   Hi Julian
   
   As you mention boards such as ours will absorb water and moisture so for this particular application HardieBacker may not be suitable alone.
   
   You could look to install the board but then use a tanking kit over the top to provide a waterproof barrier perhaps?

 

[Bond]

Tank the render with a liquid or cement based tanking system, ( as you mentioned above).

 

[Julian 'Farmer' Bonsall]

Thanks Bond. I think that sounds the best solution. Appreciated.

 

[Bond]

Aye Julian ,l think tanking the wall is definitely the best way forward, priming the render first with SBR which is salt resistant will prevent the migration of mineral ground salts to the surface, or apply a specific anti -sulphate solution. In any case,all the best with your project.