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macten

TF
Esteemed
Arms
Customers' bath had been leaking on and off for years (they kept re-sealing) but it eventually did this to their kitchen ceiling:
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:yikes:
 
very nice and not dangerous at all eh!:yikes:

They are very lucky nothing happened.I hope you get it sorted for them Macten.
 
Was a 2 room toilet/bathroom set up so first (and best job) was demolishing the party wall. Built a stud wall with a new central door frame and removed old tiles, vinyl floor tiles (thankyou Fein) and gut:
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Removed and dead ended bathroom radiator leaving just the toilet rad for later
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Drylined window wall and new stud.
All the pipework was surface mounted so first fix involved routing it all under the floor boards for a nicer finish:
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Replaced rotten floor boards from leak and recessed new shower feed into wall:
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Altered old rad pipes and put in chrome for towel rail:
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Toilet and new basin waste in.
Bath in (had to cut holes in bath which was a bit scary first time!)
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Floor boards replaced or made good. Overlayed with NMP.
Bath panel frame and shelf built.
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Customer wants spots and extractor fan in ceiling and has opted for a floating ceiling so battened that off for later allowing me to work on the set out. Plan is to have the floor tiles lipping up the walls and bath panel to form a skirting if the set out allows.
 
I got a ceiling just like that. took me a while to figure out what was leaking. sealed the shower several times all to no avail. Upon further investigatioon I found I'd forgot to put the little rubber sealing ring on the drain joint to my ensuite shower. Doh!!!!

Last time I forgot the rubber I ended up in the maternity suite :yikes:
 
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The small cut above the door was the compromise of this set out. Was more important to have a nice size skirting, decent cut size above bath and for windows to be centered on the horizontal.
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Floor down:
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Need to pick more floor tiles up to complete the skirting (was an after thought). Will post pics when done.
 
looking good with plenty of thought put into the job , just one thing , when you post your photo's , leave a gap between them , makes it a lot easier to view them :thumbsup:
 
Great set of photos, Macten..., Seem wide grout lines but look fwd to seeing it finished, sure it'll be another excellent job.:thumbsup:
 
Good job macten, nice of you to take the time to post the pics, just a quickie how did you prep the old walls (paint plaster skim etc)
What weight were the large tiles.??

Do you always use nmp on floors.? no one stocks it near me, is it the same as hardibacker..?
 
the problem with doing bathrooms like this is that the tiles dont line up on the floor, you can only line them up one 2 walls.think i might have been tempted to line the tiles up in the direct line of vision.i normall stagger the tiles so its not to obvious. the only thing i dont like about the job is the way you have a lot of soldered joints under the floor, what was up with cutting the joists and using a continuos lenth of pipe. nice to see a plumber using copper instead of all these plastic speed push in fittings.
 
the problem with doing bathrooms like this is that the tiles dont line up on the floor, you can only line them up one 2 walls.think i might have been tempted to line the tiles up in the direct line of vision.i normall stagger the tiles so its not to obvious. the only thing i dont like about the job is the way you have a lot of soldered joints under the floor, what was up with cutting the joists and using a continuos lenth of pipe. nice to see a plumber using copper instead of all these plastic speed push in fittings.

Wall and floor tiles were 2 different sizes so no chance of lining up but with a skirting that does line up it should look fine.
I don't like to just hack the top of a joist and lay a pipe on it, this weakens the joist, added danger of putting a screw through them and can sometimes cause knocking. For this reason I put holes through the joist - trade off means a couple of soldered joints - 3 tees were needed anyway.
 
Grouted, siliconed and shower in:
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the problem with doing bathrooms like this is that the tiles dont line up on the floor, you can only line them up one 2 walls.think i might have been tempted to line the tiles up in the direct line of vision.i normall stagger the tiles so its not to obvious. the only thing i dont like about the job is the way you have a lot of soldered joints under the floor, what was up with cutting the joists and using a continuos lenth of pipe. nice to see a plumber using copper instead of all these plastic speed push in fittings.

Because you shouldn't do it...
 
Another great picture post macten.... many thanks for taking the time to show is the job in progress.:thumbsup:
 
Good job macten, nice of you to take the time to post the pics, just a quickie how did you prep the old walls (paint plaster skim etc)
What weight were the large tiles.??

Do you always use nmp on floors.? no one stocks it near me, is it the same as hardibacker..?

Great finish mate, I'd be interested in the above as well if you can??
Cheers again.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 
Great finish mate, I'd be interested in the above as well if you can??
Cheers again.:thumbsup::thumbsup:

Paint was removed bar the rad wall - not emulsion and very well keyed so sugar soaped it, scored it and primed.
Removed skim down to block work on shower wall then over boarded to come level with new door frame.
I use NMP on 90% of the wooden floors I do and is basically a cement board like Hardibacker. But if the floor is uneven or not rigid enough (ie solid) then I use 18mm WBP Ply which works out as expensive as the NMP.
 
Macten.....most respect as usual.....

looks fantastic, from what it was, ..there is a missing joint...(I think) and in that situation i woud have removed it also...

well done!

Lee
 
Has Lee been banned?!? :thumbsdown:
 
great job mate, looks like porcelain, no trim. Do you do anything to finish the edges, looks very neat...? I see you said earlier, you took a couple of plastered walls back to the brick, can I ask what you used to do that, sounds a LOT of work...?:thumbsup:
 
I've got a very good blade on my bridgesaw that leaves perfect edges so didn't need to tidy them up - in the past I have used a diamond file.

I used an SDS drill with a chisel attachment to get back to the blockwork :
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You can see all the impact marks!

Not hard work as the drill does it all but very very dusty!
 

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