floor boards/ply on joists....

[Mr Tiler]

if you were to tile an upstairs bathroom floor that was bad ply or rotting floor boards, or another instance of wanting to overboard but due to a height issue it would be better to rip out existing floor and re-board on top of joists... I've been thinking recently about how you would go about taking out the existing floor off it flows into the next room underneath the wall? any detail on this would be helpful in the future and the more info the better! thanks again

 

[Gazzer]

Cut the boards ?

 

[CJ]

Circular saw around the edges.

As long as you set it to 1mm thicker than floor.......you'll be ok.

 

[Mr Tiler]

thanks but what about the strength of the floor around the 'bathroom' if you just cut along the room you wont be able to get the board/ply onto the joist under the wall... or would the new floor have to also follow into the next room? if im making any sense sorry if im not lol

 

[Gazzer]

Where there is a will there is a way...in other words It can be done but sometimes it may involve a ittle extra work but without seeing the job you couldnt say for sure.

 

[macten]

You would fix your own battens/noggins so edges are supported

 

[Ian]

A multi tool is always handy for those difficult to reach places. I wouldn't want to cut a whole floor out using one though, it'd take ages and use a fair few blades.

 

[Mr Tiler]

You would fix your own battens/noggins so edges are supported

how did I not come up with that on my own! cheers mate. bri is there a blade you can purchase for a grinder that is used for wood? thanks guys

 

[macten]

Circular saw set at 19mm is the way to go

 

[beanz]

Circular saw set at 19mm is the way to go

I wouldn't advise this. The amount of times I've seen copper pipes up against the floor boards... I set to the exact depth of the boards. Sometimes it doesn't get it all, but can be ripped up anyway, then cleaned up afterwards. 😉

 

[macten]

Even when butted right up to boards a blade set at 19mm will only scratch the pipe.
Having said that I've had floors where the back of the boards have been chamfered off 'cos someone
couldn't be bothered to notch out further - shouldn't notch out at all but but they all do it!

 

[Old Mod]

Give a joiner the headache!
Stick to what your comfortable with.
Don't take on something that Sod's law says; it will go wrong!

 

[beanz]

If you scratch copper pipe, and it's any more than a light scratch, that section of pipe should be replaced, as you've not only weakened it, but significantly reduced its lifespan.

 

[White Room]

If you scratch copper pipe, and it's any more than a light scratch, that section of pipe should be replaced, as you've not only weakened it, but significantly reduced its lifespan.

Don't get paranoid please....

 

[Mr Tiler]

Give a joiner the headache!
Stick to what your comfortable with.
Don't take on something that Sod's law says; it will go wrong!

I like this comment more than most lol

 

[Ken Bruty]

Or you could check out where the pipes go first by pulling up the odd board near radiators etc, then set your circular saw to 15mm and if you think there is a pipe in that area bend the partly cut floorboard up, have a look and if no pipe re-set your blade to 19mm and cut away, simples! If there is a pipe there use your multitool to carefully chop the 3mm of floorboard left around it

 

[Mr Tiler]

thank you ken!

 

[tfs]

Mr Tea bag,

In the situation you decribed you would need to lift some floor boards in ther next room until you get to the first joist at aither side of the wall (the first in batrhoon and first in bedroom for example)

At this stage you would cut and fix dwangs (noggins) between the joists.

It is not possible for you to fit new battons around the perimeter of a room if there is nothing to fit to so in your case you will need to remove part of the flooring at th other side of the wall. Once you have installed the dwangs (noggins) at 400 or 600 centres this will be sufficient for you to lay the new floor over.

If you choose to install a like for like replacement floor then you could simply slide the flooring under the wall if there were no fixings through the sole plate of the stud wall at that area.

hope this helps.

 

[Mr Tiler]

yes mate the moor input the better as when It does come along I can at least have an understanding of how it all works thanks matey

 

[beanz]

Don't get paranoid please....

i don't know about paranoid, but maybe a slight exaggeration.. Put it this way, if I was to go 1mm into a pipe with a skillsaw, I'd repair the pipe. Just because it isn't leaking right away, doesn't mean it won't go. If you're happy to leave it, good luck to you. 😉

 

[macten]

It's about common sense at the end of the day, a circular saw set to a depth that will cut through the boards and not pipes.
I do a lot of plumbing and if I'm lifting 18mm boards to alter pipe work and I set my saw to 18mm then I have to go over it again at 19mm, sometimes 20mm just to get through the board. So I save myself the time and go 19mm and never so much as tickle a pipe.