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URGENT! need advice TODAY, horizontal staring point (see drawing)

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J

jimbob

I need opinions on where to start tiling. I'm doing a standard running bond with 300X600 tiles, so like oversized subway tiling.
UMclRMU.jpg

*Green tiles - cut tiles White tiles - full (uncut) tiles

I want the tiles centered on the window and a full tile where the wall meets the ceiling. This doesn't work well with the height of the window or the height of the room as it leaves a small gap where the wall meets the floor. About 21mm.

The floor tiles are 8.2mm so they will reduce this gap to about 10-11mm.

I've worked all this out with 3mm spacers between all the tiles.

How can I resolve this gap ? Where should I start tiling ?
Need opinions today.

There will be a toilet centered under the window and a wash hand basin to the right.

Thank you so much in advance.

Jim
 
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Can't always have what you want when setting out.
How does your set out work for the rest of the room?
If you can't raise floor or use bigger grout joints then I would be starting 1/2 tile from floor. This will give bigger cuts above bath, still be balanced floor to ceiling, will work with window and allow you to rake your cuts if your floor/ ceiling isn't perfectly level.
 
How's it work taking full tile or three quarter tile off the bath..?
KajAkWX.jpg


Full tile off bath

The tile above the window sticks out by 5mm either side as the window is 590mm and the tiles are 600mm. Also 74mm tile all around where wall meets ceiling. What do you think.
 
Can't always have what you want when setting out.
How does your set out work for the rest of the room?
If you can't raise floor or use bigger grout joints then I would be starting 1/2 tile from floor. This will give bigger cuts above bath, still be balanced floor to ceiling, will work with window and allow you to rake your cuts if your floor/ ceiling isn't perfectly level.
Floor has just been leveled with self leveling floor compound. Will draw this up with half tile from floor now to see.

Wall to left of bath is just a blank wall the length of the bath from bath to ceiling so works out fine, wall to right of bath is just a full height blank wall with a radiator, and opposite wall to window wall just has a door in the corner so all these walls will work fine no matter which way it is.
 
It's risky to have a full tile at the ceiling unless you know that the ceiling is absolutely level, which would be quite unusual!
Also, are your tiles all exactly the same size?
Rarely does a plan on paper work out in real life, there's always something that isn't quite square or level.
 
It's risky to have a full tile at the ceiling unless you know that the ceiling is absolutely level, which would be quite unusual!
Also, are your tiles all exactly the same size?
Rarely does a plan on paper work out in real life, there's always something that isn't quite square or level.
All tiles are exactly 300x600 wall and floor tiles. Wall tiles are 10mm and floor tiles 8.2mm
 
Can't always have what you want when setting out.
How does your set out work for the rest of the room?
If you can't raise floor or use bigger grout joints then I would be starting 1/2 tile from floor. This will give bigger cuts above bath, still be balanced floor to ceiling, will work with window and allow you to rake your cuts if your floor/ ceiling isn't perfectly level.
Half tile from floor

ZxlbFwh.jpg

much more cut tiles this way and less full (uncut) tiles also have the issue of the tile under the window being 600mm and the window being 590mm so tile sticks out 5mm either side of window.

what do you think?
 
at the ceiling and move all the tiling downslightly?
I haven't been able to read it all yet sat in traffic. If your set out is finr apart from ceiling line, stick 100mm coving on top of tiles and paint with oil based eggshell.
 
I haven't been able to read it all yet sat in traffic. If your set out is finr apart from ceiling line, stick 100mm coving on top of tiles and paint with oil based eggshell.
Thank you so much for commenting. I don't think coving is an option as this would have to be got and we want to resolve the issue without buying any extras.
 
If centered on the window both vertically and horizontally

XV1oxwZ.jpg


I like this option as it gives about a half tile around the floor and ceiling which looks quite symmetrical but its the issue of the tile above the window again where the tile is wider that the width of the window..
what do you think?
 
If you're prepared to go to the effort, insert closers in the centre of the wall and you'll have it the way you want
 
Reduce each tile with blue line by sufficient amount to loose the amount needed over the window.
So if it just 10mm for example, reduce single tiles by 10mm and double tiles by 5.
Use a rubbing block to tidy the edges.
If you take your time and don't rush, once finished you'll never tell.

IMG_1499.PNG
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Please check your ceiling is level, or at least find the highest point.
One other option is to turn the floor tile up the wall, as a skirting tile, around 100-120mm..Full tiles up from this.
I had thought about doing this with the floor tiles, I'll draw it up now to see how it looks.
 
Go back to the post where I posted your plan on the previous page. You'll see dark blue lines drawn on your plan, these tiles can be reduced by 5-10mm or what ever you need to produce a full tile around the window and no small slithers will be required. Besides, you can't put 5-10mm cuts around a window, it'll be wrong on so many levels.
 
Go back to the post where I posted your plan on the previous page. You'll see dark blue lines drawn on your plan, these tiles can be reduced by 5-10mm or what ever you need to produce a full tile around the window and no small slithers will be required. Besides, you can't put 5-10mm cuts around a window, it'll be wrong on so many levels.
Yes, I've saw this. I think this is the best option so far. I'm also going to draw up an option to see how it looks if I bring the floor tiles up the wall slightly like a 100mm skirting.

Thank you so much for all your help with this. I really appreciate it.
 
I still prefer the original set out with a 10mm gap at ceiling.
You can either add a small cove at ceiling line or even just add another layer of plasterboard to the ceiling, both can be done at a later date,
With only 300mm or so over the window head, a double cut can look bitty.
Just my opinion tho.
 
I still prefer the original set out with a 10mm gap at ceiling.
You can either add a small cove at ceiling line or even just add another layer of plasterboard to the ceiling, both can be done at a later date,
With only 300mm or so over the window head, a double cut can look bitty.
Just my opinion tho.
So, eight full height rows from floor up and small gap at ceiling ? I was thinking of this as well and just put a tile trim around the top. The tiles are matt white and the grout is white the ceiling will be painted white so everything is white so I think a small gap at the ceiling would be fine.
 
So, eight full height rows from floor up and small gap at ceiling ? I was thinking of this as well and just put a tile trim around the top. The tiles are matt white and the grout is white the ceiling will be painted white so everything is white so I think a small gap at the ceiling would be fine.
Dunno about fine 🙂 however if you find you can live with it, then it's perfectly acceptable, it's your home after all.
Good luck with it.
 
Have drawn up all walls and floor
Would love opinions, comments, ideas etc
What do you think?
RheGBia.jpg
On the door wall around the edge of the bath there is a 30mm sliver of tile and above the door a 35mm sliver of tile - is there a way I can adjust so these won't be quite so small?

What do you think, are these slivers alright?

Is it a compromise?

In an ideal world I would like nothing smaller than 150mm, a quarter tile

I'm unsure.
 
Around edge of bath on door wall?
Do you mean running down the side of the bath?
Where the cross is?
IMG_1502.PNG

Just move the joint up to the bath, from your drawing it doesn't seem to cause an issue.

The slither above the door is more difficult and tbh where it is, and how the rest of the room works, I wouldn't worry about it.
It runs in to the wall and is behind you when you enter.
There will ALWAYS be a compromise to make, we just do what we can to lessen the impact.

You can always fit a piece of 30mm timber on top of the architrave, fill it well and paint, probably be unnoticeable.
The architrave will just be taller.
It will depend on the profile of course.
IMG_1503.PNG
 

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