Discuss Problematic Anhyrdrite floor! in the Canada area at TilersForums. The USA and UK Tiling Forum (Also now Aus, Canada, ROI, and more)

Ajax123

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What is interesting - well it is to me anyway - is that the thread, although entitled anhydrite is actually about a hemi hydrate screed. Mark S and myself work for Manufacturers of Anhydrite, Mark for Gyvlon and I for Francis Flower. Our materials are ostensibly the same, and in fact until recently Francis Flower made Gyvlon binder for them and even more incestuously Mark took over my role at Gyvlon after I moved to Francis Flower a few months ago. Our respective materials perform ostensibly identically in all aspects, drying, thermal properties, optimum depths, formation of laitance etc etc. All of us in the construction industry are after an edge I guess and one of the perceived problems with anhydrirte screeds is the need to sand them to remove laitance or skin. Actually sanding the screed at an early sage is beneficial in a number of ways. The formation of laitance is common to ALL screeds as I have said on numerous occasions. Hemi Hydrates, which incidentally are also supplied by Larsen work slightly differently in that the chemical reaction tends to tie up the laitance in the surface of the screed whereas with anhydrites it sits on top. The Hemi boys seem to think that this means that the screeds dont need to be sanded. Lafarge readymix (as opposed to Gyvlon - different companies) some years ago now began to use admixtures in order to prevent the formation of this skin thus mimicing the hemi hydrates. This was done primarily to redcue the need for sanding because no one wants to sand the screed as this is an extra operation and extra cost and the are practical difficulties on some sites. The draw back of these closed surface systems is that they are much more dense and much less easy to get primers and the like to soak into and adhesives to key to.

What I find interesting is that the anhydrite boys (Mark S and mself) say sanding yet it appears that the hemi boys do not. If you think about the characteristics of the screed and then think about the nature of a general building site which gets dirty you will understand the need for sanding. Whose responsibility is it depends on how the contract is set up. My own advice reflects Marks... if in doubt - sand it. There is a distinction to be drawn here as well MArk and I work for the binder manufacturers. Neither of us make or sel screeds. That is down to our customers the likes of Bardon, Cemex, Tarmac etc etc. We would always hope that our own guidelines are best practice and are mirrored by our customers and in turn their customers. This does not always happen of course as we deal with human beings with alll their frailties. However you can rest assured that a simple call to me or any of my colleagues on the binder side will help you to get it right.

The argument is never as simple as "there is a lack of information given to clients" or "the screeders dont do their bit" or even " the manufacturers dont pass on the information". All of the information about these screeds is in the public domain and available free of charge in official data sheets should it be requested from us as manufacturers.


Harping back to many threads to which I have contributed prep is really straight forward, sand it vac it, prime it (if your adhesive needs a primer) then tile it.

These screeds are here to stay and as I have said many times before you will come across them more and more. There are two options as I see it. Learn about them, learn how to deal with them and get the job done or walk away. It is not for me to decide which is right and which is wrong. That is a business decision for you guys to make. Some have gone one way and some the other.

I dont think the failure in this instance really has anything to do with lack of sanding though.

Anyway that is me done for now as I am off out soon and need my tea :)
 
T

The D

I will not mince my words when it comes to these screeds I do not trust them and I will not tile on to them I will not even offer a quotation if they have been installed.
In fact I hate them and all the BS that goes along with them (and I’m not talking British Standards) the only time I will tile on to one of these screeds is if hell freezes over.
 

Ajax123

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I will not mince my words when it comes to these screeds I do not trust them and I will not tile on to them I will not even offer a quotation if they have been installed.
In fact I hate them and all the BS that goes along with them (and I’m not talking British Standards) the only time I will tile on to one of these screeds is if hell freezes over.

As is your right mate... :) And to be fair I've never seen you mince your words over anything so far .... ;)
 
T

The D

Harping back to many threads to which I have contributed prep is really straight forward, sand it vac it, prime it (if your adhesive needs a primer) then tile it.

You missed out the moisture test and witch method to use and do we follow your set of instructions or the manufacturers. No don’t bother I have stopped lessoning I am taking my ball and I’m not playing any more
 

macten

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I swerve these screeds like I would a floating floor.
Why add extra stress and hassle to a job?
I'm Paranoid about identifying them though so they are still having a negative impact on my job and I don't touch 'em.
As for relying on customers to give you all the gen on their substrate or meeting with the screeder or even knowing who the manufacturer is, in the real world, it doesn't happen.
The one time I was privvy to meeting with the screeder was at the beginning of a very expensive project (a lovely reclaimed geo job with wet UFH that I asked the talented Mr Hobson for help with).
Well this screeder really appeared to know his stuff and although anhydrite seemed to be the perfect and most cost effective solution for the customer as his hallway wouldn't have to be dug down so deep, plumbing would be easier, in and out quicker, less dust and quicker to tile too etc...
I managed to talk the customer into going with the more expensive, labour intensive and disruptive cement screed. The screeder did an amazing job as I knew he would - he seemed so knowledgable.
He knew about laitency and potential problems with tiling without removing the laitence first, but the newer stuff he uses was low laitence and needed nothing more than priming and no mention of moisture testing. That's my problem, misinformation between the screed manufacturers between themselves and their installers. Tile adhesive recommendations that differ from each other and can conflict with the screed manufacturers.

I don't want to spend £££s on hygrometers and testing on days when the ambient humidity may or may not be conducive to giving me a result that may or may not be accurate etc...

I wish you anhydrite guys could put something in your screeds that turns the laitence green, neon pink or some other undeniable hue when it's dry enough to tile to - then not only could I recognise it, I could confidently sand it all off and know it's cool for me to tile to. If you guys could do this I would no longer refer to it as 'devil's tarmac'
 
D

DHTiling

I got a full house on Gyvlonn LL to start next week.... nee bother at all.. :thumbsup:... what is the issue with these floors... you tile to skimmed walls . ? just think of a large skimmed floor.. same to prime , just longer to dry..
 
B

bugs183

Thats the problem Dave, and i can see your point.
It does seem like no bother at all, and you tile it....
but lots of other guys have done the same, been through the testing as thoroughly as possible and still had failures.
I tiled 120m2 floor several months ago, using Kerakoll Eco.
I explained my concerns to the customer, so the rep made the moisture check, with their preferred method, a carbide bomb test, which i know isn't Ajax's, i mentioned Hair Hygrometer, 'we use these'.
There just always seems to be something wrong, the builder i suggested should use these screeds has had nothing but agro off the screeders. No expansion joints anywhere, tons of latence which no one told him would occur. He then used another firm and the floor took weeks to even firm up, looks like the screeders tried to water the mix down,and now he has a floor that refuses to dry out.
He never touching these floors again.
 
P

Perfect Tiling

I seem to have started quite a rant here...but not the first it seems on this subject. These screeds are fairly rare up here so at the moment I can stay away from them for now. I will just have to reaffirm with the customer that he cannot just turn on his heating with the rest of the floors or the same thing will happen. As to the floors that have started to sound loose, he just wants to leave them for now so what can I do...I can't force him to get them redone. And I can't miss them off the bill when I make it out as that may look like I'm saying its my fault. Thanks to all for their input...it was...interesting reading!!!!
 
J

jonnyc

Thanks Ajax...thats what I thought. As mentioned I didn't sand the floor as screed company said not to...I did try to sand and scrape a part but nothing came off...no dust...nowt. If moisture is the cause who is to blame? I don't do a bomb test and relied on dates given by customer and screed company who now say 120 days not 75 as previously. I told customer not to put up heating but he did so just my word against his. The heating to the travertine floors has been physically shut off for now so that if moisture levels are too high the floor can still breathe and hopefully be ok. Failed floors are porcelain. This type of screed obviously has some benefits...but not as regards tiling onto!!!!
i still havent seen any benefit at all in having these screeds except that they can be laid in a day. everything after that is aggro and more time.
even the notion that you dont need expansion joints through doorways is nonsense and has been proved to me many times unless the screed was badly laid
 
J

jonnyc

If the trav is solid and just the porcs came up after heating, then i think it is a strong possibility that it was heated to quickly.. if the heating was ran for 3 weeks then i doubt much moisture was left in the screed..

porcs will react a lot different to thermal shock than stone as porcs rely on polymers to hold the tiles where as stone with hold in the capillaries/structure of the stone backs.. so the thermal stress will make porcs pop easier if subjected to heat to fast as the adhesive would not be at full structural strength till at least 28 + days.

So don't be quick to blame moisture / sulphate delamination till you see how quick the floor was heated up.
this is a very good point dave. but if the screed under stone still has a bit of moisture in it do you think that if heating turned on say to 20 degrees over 4 days in equal increments held for 4 days and brought down over 24 days this might be ok.I only say this as it does seem that there are far more failures on porcelain than stone floors.
 
J

jonnyc

well i should have read from beginning before posting anything about this but it seems like the same old problem occurring.
now i respect the time you spend helping to educate us and your considerable experience with these screed ajax , but i do not accept your statement that these type of screed are here to stay and we should all embrace and learn or just not bother.
why should they be here to stay?
if enough tilers refuse to tile over them then they will not continue.
its not about being stuck in a time warp either . people of 40 yrs old and above and i would say that is quite a lot of the experienced tilers on this forum have dealt with and adjusted to massive changes within our industry and many of us would truly say that the changes in materials we fix whether finished stone/porcelain or even the prep work has given us a more interesting trade .
 
J

jonnyc

sorry had to start again for fear of losing post.
getting back, there are many instances of a bad product being brought to market and not succeeding.
why not because people did not like it!!
it is ridiculous to tell us that anhydrite is here to stay if we like it or not.
it seems to me there has been some very good sales pitch and patter to convince the average contractor that he is gaining by having one of these screeds.
I can say for myself only that i have counted 18 anhydrite screeds that i have stone and porcelain on to date.
without exception there is not as single contractor that used this screed that has done so again.
this is not because my tiles have failed but simply because beyond the obvious time saving of maybe doing 500 mts in a day in a big house top and ground. the waiting time and prep work they have to do is not worth the aggro. full stop.
perhaps if these screeds were laid in a professional manner as assumedly they are in germany/france then we might profit from an amazing level screed /latence problem sorted by screed company and we could all carry on as normal.
but this is certainly not the case here .
 
D

DHTiling

this is a very good point dave. but if the screed under stone still has a bit of moisture in it do you think that if heating turned on say to 20 degrees over 4 days in equal increments held for 4 days and brought down over 24 days this might be ok.I only say this as it does seem that there are far more failures on porcelain than stone floors.


heated to 20 degs or above in 4 days is IMO too quick.. but it is also how soon the heat is introduced.. not many wait a month to do this..
 

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